brake pad change - top up fluid?

[Spiderman]

And be careful not to get the fluid on your paintwork cos it'll do it no good.
Wash off with lots of water if you do it accidentaly.

Or buy/download a manual they have a step by step guide!!!!

Originally Posted by BILLY

Or buy/download a manual they have a step by step guide!!!!

yep.
do what it says in there,

then when all done,
open resevoir cap, pump brake lever a few times,
then cable tie brake lever to bar and leave overnight

in the morning, replace cap and cut cable tie.


voila - you can now stop on a six pence.

Like carsick said!! It is a bit weird that the fluid has dropped after change!! Perhaps the backing plates are thinner on the new pads so the overall thickness is less than the ones you replaced??

I suggest you buy a non return valve/pipe to bleed the brakes. Halfords do them.

Then get a clean jamjar, partially fill with fresh brake fluid with the pipe end submerged, the non return valve will prevent air going back in. This way you can leave the nipple undone and just pump away until no more bubbles appear to be expeled with the fluid. You obviously need to keep topping the fluid up at the reservoir during the process. Then do the other calliper until no bubbles are expelled. I normally do the first one again just to be sure.

Then top the reservoir up for the last time to the max mark. Make sure the nipples are done up properly and have sealed (pull leaver in and check no fluid comes out) and you are done

The tip about the cable tie is a good one too as this compresses any tiny bits of air left in the system allowing it to come harmlessly to the top.

As has been said too, brakes are not a thing you want to be messing with if you don’t know what you are doing, but you are keen to learn so have given you tips. At the end of the day, it isn’t that difficult!!

If the leaver doesn’t ‘feel’ right at the end of this then try and bleed again or seek help before riding.

Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S

Like carsick said!! It is a bit weird that the fluid has dropped after change!! Perhaps the backing plates are thinner on the new pads so the overall thickness is less than the ones you replaced??

I suggest you buy a non return valve/pipe to bleed the brakes. Halfords do them.

Then get a clean jamjar, partially fill with fresh brake fluid with the pipe end submerged, the non return valve will prevent air going back in. This way you can leave the nipple undone and just pump away until no more bubbles appear to be expeled with the fluid. You obviously need to keep topping the fluid up at the reservoir during the process. Then do the other calliper until no bubbles are expelled. I normally do the first one again just to be sure.

Then top the reservoir up for the last time to the max mark make sure the nipples have sealed (pull leaver in and check no fluid comes out) and you are done

The tip about the cable tie is a good one too as this compresses any tiny bits of air left in the system allowing it to come harmlessly to the top.

As has been said too, brakes are not a thing you want to be messing with if you don’t know what you are doing, but you are keen to learn so have given you tips. At the end of the day, it isn’t that difficult!!

If the leave doesn’t ‘feel’ right at the end of this then try and bleed again or seek help before riding.

i thought the poiint of submerging the tube from the bleed nipple in brake fluid was to stop air getting back in ?

Originally Posted by bikageboy

i thought the poiint of submerging the tube from the bleed nipple in brake fluid was to stop air getting back in ?

Er yes it is??? Does my ditty not read like that then? Or do you mean any bit of pipe will work??? This is true, but a proper non-return pipe is a neater way of doing things. A normal bit of pipe can sometimes be a bit hard to get 'flowing'.

A proper non-return pipe is only a about £3 and a handy bit of kit to have at your disposal in the future.

[Viney]

Originally Posted by branny

well.... ive got to disagree.... because, if i am told how, then im sure im more than capable
most fluid systems have a set routine to be bled, i just dont know the SV one!

it is a bit 'squidgee' yeah.... gonna have a look tonight, seen as its a nice day.

Sorry. But if i gave you a step by step guide, and you cocked it up and injured yourself, than i wouldnt feel right. But you can bleed a hydrulic system, then its the same one the bike. Just being careful thats all.

Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S

Er yes it is??? Does my ditty not read like that then? Or do you mean any bit of pipe will work??? This is true, but a proper non-return pipe is a neater way of doing things. A normal bit of pipe can sometimes be a bit hard to get 'flowing'.

A proper non-return pipe is only a about £3 and a handy bit of kit to have at your disposal in the future.

ok just checking, ive just used a clear tube in the past and its worked fine.

Originally Posted by Viney

Sorry. But if i gave you a step by step guide, and you cocked it up and injured yourself, than i wouldnt feel right. But you can bleed a hydrulic system, then its the same one the bike. Just being careful thats all.

we all have to learn somewhere,
i learned everything i know mechanically about bikes from this site you know.

Originally Posted by bikageboy

i learned everything i know mechanically about bikes from this site you know.

Oh, now thats scary.

Just joking.

See HERE for a step by step guide with pictures. It's even being done on an SV.

How did I find this page Google is your friend.