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Old 02-08-06, 12:14 AM   #21
Warren
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they do a very good torque wrench in argos for 20 quid,
it goes from 50-190 nm.

ive had mine for a year, used it well, and its still in calibration.
ive got a smaller one for 0-60 mn too that cost 50 from halfords.
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Old 02-08-06, 12:18 AM   #22
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For what it's worth, the argos one is now £14.99, and 28-210NM. If it does what it says on the tin looks like a good deal. http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...er/7013887.htm Cant vouch that its the same one bikageboy commends though.
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Old 02-08-06, 12:23 AM   #23
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Same as the Machine Mart one. Also the Lidl one
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Old 02-08-06, 12:35 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shao
For what it's worth, the argos one is now £14.99, and 28-210NM. If it does what it says on the tin looks like a good deal. http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...er/7013887.htm Cant vouch that its the same one bikageboy commends though.
ok i stand corrected, that is the one i have.
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Old 02-08-06, 02:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewart-250
There is no load on the wheel bearings from tightening up the axle, you cannot damage bike wheel bearings by overtightening the axle.
That may be so but something binds up when you tighten a curvy rear up too tight. One of the reasons I got a torque wrench.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stewart-250
Bike forums are full of posts from upset owners who have just snapped bolts (cam cap bolts seem to be a favourite) while trying to tighten them up to the factory torque setting.
That is often because people don't know how to use them or use a torque wrench with a 210nm range and expect it to accurately tighten a 10nm bolt. The reason that I have 2 torque wrenches.
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Old 02-08-06, 05:39 PM   #26
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Or, because they ignore the condition of the parts, and consider a torque wrench a safety net, which it's not- it's no replacement for the correct approach.
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Old 02-08-06, 08:14 PM   #27
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It is disturbing when I read posts like these. The Halfords torque wrench is the absolute minimum standard you should use - and you will need both the 3/8 and 1/2 inch to cover the SV. And even then, I wouldn't use the 1/2 inch in the lowest 1/4 of its settings. The other downside of the Halfords units is that they will not do reverse threads.

Bolts maintain tightness by stretching - they elastically deform. This deformation is only maintainable over a very small range of lengths. If you do not tighten the bolt enough then it will work itself loose with vibration. If you overtighten it, it will go past the range of elastic deformation and into plastic deformation (permanently overstretched). When this happens it will eventually fail. Getting torque settings right is important! For very critical bolts it is normal to have an initial torque setting and then a further number of degrees that needs to be turned - this gives a more accurate 'stretch'.
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Old 02-08-06, 08:29 PM   #28
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Note to self. Never let sdusk see me working on a bike.

I have to admit to being a "HnnNNNngg, that feels about right" nut tightener merchant.

(Fnar, if applicable.)
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Old 02-08-06, 08:30 PM   #29
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I use a torque wrench where I feel it's need and for everything else E-m unit of torque is used .

Question
How many people actually tighten the sump plug/oil drain bolt to 21 N-m. Sounds quite high to me. I don't.

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Old 02-08-06, 08:55 PM   #30
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Ben, sump plugs are a case of a big (relatively) bolt into very soft cast aluminium, and they do not stretch in this case. The torque is just to compress the copper or aluminium washer for a good seal. 21Nm does sound very high for doing that - I would have thought that 12 or 15 would be enough.
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