brake pad change - top up fluid?

Thanks a lot guys.
there is some good help there.

last night i had a good look.
there are NO LEAKS

looking at the resevoir, there is no level of fluid.
open it up, i jus see a black lining, i topped this up (a little too much actually ) and bled the calipers, put the lid back on and rode it round the block.
brakes are all good, obviously the new pads need bedding, but it seems ok.
i might like a more solid lever, but i bled the system.... so that must be how it is

the issue now is.... i cant see the level on the resevoir
i should be able to see the fluid level through the plastic.... right????

wooaaaahhhh there horsey

the black thing needs to come out too, then put the fluid in, it's the black thing that gies you your seal afterwards

[Viney]

Originally Posted by Carl PO51 MYV

wooaaaahhhh there horsey

the black thing needs to come out too, then put the fluid in, it's the black thing that gies you your seal afterwards

And needs pushing back it. Its like a comedy top hat. As the fluid drops, as the pads wear the black thing expands to stop the low level of fluid, missing the hole and letting air into the system.

[TSM]

Many people dont know what the black thing is, surprising.

As Viney said, top up fluid to correct level then put it back in and push it down till all the air is out of the resovoir.

ive just read the how-to at the link above...
thats a very useful webpage!

i read the how-to on changing front pads, as i jus did it using common sense..... i was quite shocked at the bit about removing a metal clip and attaching to the new pads

Im worried now!!!

i never did this, but im sure the pads that came out were the same as the pads that went in.... so, could the clip have been helf in the caliper on both sides???

what does it actaully do???

it's an anti squeal shim. Not strictly necessary.

oops

i bet some people are quite shocked im working on my own brakes

ok... im sure the shim is in the caliper, cos i coppered it up with the back of the pad.

as for the black bit in the resevoir.... well, no excuse there, i did wonder though

i'll sort it out.

Thankyou very much

if you want firmer feel in the lever (ie less freeplay)
you can use the adjuster on top of the lever.
1 being the strongest i believe.

[Red ones]

Going back to the DOT 5 issue - don't use it!

The usual stuff is DOT 4 and is good enough. BUT it absorbs water and goes off with time - hence the need to replace it.

DOT 5 does not absorb water and does not go off BIG BUT water then collects in the lowest part of the system - ie the caliper - this causes not only corrosion, but also has a tendency to boil if you brake REALLY hard - that then introduces a compressible gas in your system and your brakes fail

DOT 5.1 gets round the problem associated with DOT 5 and is just like DOT 4 but operates at a higher temperature. You will not get an SV to a high enough performance to require the increased temperature resistance. (Besides DOT 5.1 is really expensive by comparison)

So, DOT 4 is OK for the vast majority of road bikes, DOT 5 tends to be used by rich race teams who can afford to replace their fluid every weekend, DOT 5.1 tends to be used by high performance bikes.

[Spiderman]

Originally Posted by bikageboy

if you want firmer feel in the lever (ie less freeplay)
you can use the adjuster on top of the lever.
1 being the strongest i believe.

Errm, I think you'll find that all that does is adjust the reach of the lever to the bar. So its either closer and has more of your fingers on it, or further and you use more of your fingertips for squeezing the lever.
Obviously that all depends how long your fingers/hands are.

If you got spongey brakes that aint gonna make any diffrence to the spongy-ness