K6 Pointy GSXR Front End Mod

[Rich]

How's your set up now you sorted out those settings yet and ur speedo? I personally think that suits your bike more than it did mine really done a good job mate shame the weathers been so pants.

Rich

Originally Posted by Uber

How's your set up now you sorted out those settings yet and ur speedo? I personally think that suits your bike more than it did mine really done a good job mate shame the weathers been so pants.

Rich

The gold looks fantastic against the blue - and it looks like its factory standard, which is great. None of this 3" bean can exhaust on a Corsa look!

I have a real confidence on the brakes, and the handling is/will be better. Tart factor has also increased

The settings aren't quite there yet. As you said the weather has been awful.
I think that the new head bearings have settled so there is a slight movement of the top yoke against the stem nut. Its absolutely tiny, but its there and it is causing a 'thunk' noise/sensation when you hit the brakes hard or hit a bad bump. It wasn't there before I took it to St Ives (600miles or so). I have softened the front suspension off completely and its loads better - but I am buying the tool today (since the one I borrowed from work has gone AWOL!) so I can reset the nuts.

Once the bearings are done I think that the front will be too soft, so its out with the sockets screwdrivers and its tweak time agian.

The speedo doesn't work yet, but thats because I have been too busy at work to investigate it. I have no doubt that it can be sorted though.

So - outstanding jobs...

Fit the clipon location bolts (informed that the abscence of these is an MOT failure). I could just cut the lugs off the clipons, but that would be cheating! I have the bolts cut to size and filed to shape, but can't fit them until the head bearing is sorted.

Tighten the head bearings

Get off my fat butt and find ten minutes at work to sort my speedo. I have all the parts, its just a case of finding out if the signal out of the new speedo is the same as the original one.


It feels like it is really dragging on, but the weather has been so terrible that its taken all my enthusiasm.

Originally Posted by amnesia

GSVR vs SV...

There is like a big difference in length inbetween the GSVR and the SV forklength! Just a small question: does the fender touch the radiator on heavy braking? I have this problem with my sv with R1 forks... Although the uncompressed length of the R1 forks was almost the same as the SV ones, but the stroke is longer...


Anyway, I like the blue bike and the gold forks with the black frame/wheels!!

The difference in fork length isn't that much really, the photo is misleading as they aren't level.

The fender is nowhere near the radiator, but I don't have an extender fitted yet. It is a GSXR fender though. I have bounced on the front end quite hard, fully compressing the forks with no interferences.

[Rich]

Originally Posted by amnesia

The difference in fork length isn't that much really, the photo is misleading as they aren't level.

The fender is nowhere near the radiator, but I don't have an extender fitted yet. It is a GSXR fender though. I have bounced on the front end quite hard, fully compressing the forks with no interferences.

My fender was fine even with the extender fitted it was nowhere near the rad!!!

Rich

Clearance is only an issue when you start dropping the GSXR forks through the yokes, as they are shorter than SV forks anyway the majority of people have no need to.

Originally Posted by amnesia

Lots of jabbering...

So - outstanding jobs...

Fit the clipon location bolts (informed that the abscence of these is an MOT failure). I could just cut the lugs off the clipons, but that would be cheating! I have the bolts cut to size and filed to shape, but can't fit them until the head bearing is sorted. DONE. I ACTUALLTY ACHEIEVED SOMETHING TODAY!!!! Apart from drinking Black Russians in pints whilst watching Green Wing.

Tighten the head bearingsDONE. I ACTUALLTY ACHEIEVED SOMETHING ELSE TODAY!!!! The nut tightened by a quarter turn, and the 'clunk' has gone.

"A is for Apendectomy
B is for Barium
C is for Cystitis
D is for ......"

Still got problems with the speedo.

I took it to work and compared its output to the original one.

They both switch from +voltage (10V in the test) to -voltage (0V). However, the new one doesn't go to a 'hard' 0V, and floats around between 0V and +0.6V.

I fitted a pull-up resistor between the output and the 12V line and it seemed to be a better signal. Not surprising since the data sheet for the sensor says it is an open collector output.

However, on the bike it makes no difference at all and the speedo is still jumping all over the place.

Its just possible that due to the sensor's design it is too close to the discs which is affecting its reading. If its the proximity to the discs then the only fix is a different type of sensor with a smaller size.


On a happier note, she rides really nicely!



****STOP PRESS****

Just after writing the above, I thought I would go and try something. Moved the fender up and fitted some washers between the sensor bracket and the fork legs, increasing the space between magnets and sensor. Hey presto - U-turns at a steady 5mph instead of the 5-10-3-12mph wobble reading of earlier. Feels like an over-read to me (probably due to the 60 section front), but it appears to be steady. Think its time for a smaller sensor (the Hamlyn one) and we might be away. Watch this space...

[yorkie_chris]

Reading will be standard with 120/60, it is about 5% error apparently with a 120/70 fitted but they wear quicker.

Would be nice to be able to drop yokes down the forks, but there's very little clearance with radiator.

[northwind]

Well, 120/60 gives you the standard error, 120/70 makes it more accurate. Running it off the rear wheel makes it better still.