emulators again

[Luckypants]

Thanks Northy

Local dealer (A&D) quoted £21.75 for the fork cap (51351-10D80) and £2.46 for the washer (51192-06C00). Thats much better!

You were right about the fiche too, but the guy now remembered having similar issue years ago....

[Luckypants]

Dang! Could only get 10wt oil for my forks. What are folks views on using 10wt oil with springs and emulators as opposed to 15wt? Would adding preload to the emulators stiffen the compression damping to compensate? Would this leave me with too little rebound damping?

Alternatively, I could try it and see what I think, go for 15wt if no good.

All input greatly appreciated.

I wouldn't personally! I put 20wt in mine as I'm sure that's what Racetech advised. Blue played about with different weight fork oils, and I think in the end he went with 20wt as well.

On a different note, I have 2 spare OE damping rod crush washers, which turned up too late for when I did mine. Since I no longer have an SV, I don't need them - If you haven't got any you are more than welcome to have them - Just PM me an address and I'll chuck them in the post on monday.

Thanks
Luke

[Luckypants]

What's a crush washer?

forks are already out, ready for an oil change and new springs / emulators.

Should I have already loosened the damping rod bolt at the base? how will the bolt spin, is it not fixed and relies on tension? what do folks use to loosen that allen bolt? I have an allen key which is long enough, but ony by using the long sode, which gives no leverage.

Do I need a special tool to undo the damper rods?

Originally Posted by Luckypants

What's a crush washer?

forks are already out, ready for an oil change and new springs / emulators.

Should I have already loosened the damping rod bolt at the base? how will the bolt spin, is it not fixed and relies on tension? what do folks use to loosen that allen bolt? I have an allen key which is long enough, but ony by using the long sode, which gives no leverage.

Do I need a special tool to undo the damper rods?

There are 2 copper washers on each damping rod bolt. A crush washer is basically made of softer metal i.e copper that is designed to compress very slightly when tightened for a better seal - usually where fluids are involved. It is advisable to change them when removing them, but you can get away with reusing the old ones. I offered mine, because they will only go to waste otherwise!

It is easier to undo the damping rod bolts with the fork internals still in place because otherwise they tend to rotate the rod, rather than loosen the bolt. I think I used an allen key head on a socket set and ratchet to undo them, but they are tough! (Possibly loctited?). If you have already removed the forks then it's not a problem, but you may have to get someone to hold on the the fork leg while you try and undo them. If they do start to rotate after you have loosened them, then I have heard people sticking a broom handle down into the fork (with the spring removed) and apply pressure to the top of the damping rod to hold it still - no special tool required

[Luckypants]

Originally Posted by lukemillar

On a different note, I have 2 spare OE damping rod crush washers, which turned up too late for when I did mine. Since I no longer have an SV, I don't need them - If you haven't got any you are more than welcome to have them - Just PM me an address and I'll chuck them in the post on monday.

Thanks
Luke

You have PM

[Luckypants]

Originally Posted by Luckypants

Dang! Could only get 10wt oil for my forks. What are folks views on using 10wt oil with springs and emulators as opposed to 15wt? Would adding preload to the emulators stiffen the compression damping to compensate? Would this leave me with too little rebound damping?

Alternatively, I could try it and see what I think, go for 15wt if no good.

All input greatly appreciated.

OK Since I discovered my fork seals are FUBAR'd I cannot go on with the rebuild atm, so will trade my 10wt for 15wt at the dealer (they are ordering it with new fork seals)

[Luckypants]

All Done! New springs, emulators, 15wt oil, new seals, new pre-load fork caps. 2 turns of preload on the emulators.

Now to do the brakes before rebuilding front end.