Disabling ignition retarder - worth it?

Hello,
I was wondering if anyone has done this and if there are any gains to be had by doing it, I don't like the idea of my ignition being retarder in 2nd and 3rd.

Does it give any gains or is it a bad idea?

2000 SV650s.

Cheers

[northwind]

I didn't notice any difference at all, but some people do... And since it takes about 10 minutes and costs nothing (unless you want to use a G-pak) and it's reversible, I can't see a downside. If you don't like it you can easily put it back to stock.

Yep, done it, can't say I noticed any difference

I agree. I Didn’t really feel any difference but for the time and effort involved (or lack of) its worth a try. Certainly haven’t seen any bad side effects.

It makes things a bit snappier in 2nd & 3rd. Seems to try popping the front wheel more than it would otherwise. I found the starting issues to be a bit of a problem though (high idle speed and sometimes tricky to start when very cold). I took it off a while back. I've got a pretty good idea what components are in the G-Pack and if I was more electronically minded I could build the exact same unit myself with the exception of using the virtually unobtainable suzuki-style connector plugs. (Basically it'd be a programmable chip which leaves first gear alone and only disables the TRE in 2nd & 3rd thereby giving all the benefits and none of the issues).

For the few cents (pence?) for the 16K resistor, it doesn't do any harm to have a play, especially if you stick a toggle switch on.

For the original it's sniping two wires. I did it, had no difference and soldered them back up. Many say it's done for noise but that's word of mouth. Stick to the original spec to be safe.

How would one go about doing this? I've been having trouble with my SV and, with this in mind, it might have something to do with a retarder problem.

Andrew your right it is done for noise.

Removing it through the resistor or G pack tricks the bike into thinking it is in a gear which does not have the retard. Removes the retard yes but also removes the benefits of having a seperate fueling map for each gear.

I doubt many would tell the retard is there. If you rode two bikes back to back one without and one with i doubt it could be picked out as its only a split second.

Best thing for the SV is to improve air flow, can and remap. Larger rear sprocket also makes it pull harder.

If your lacking in poke then the 1000 may be the next best option!

[johnnyrod]

The only thing I noticed when I removed the retarder is that at trundling speeds in 2nd it doesn't bog down nearly as much below 3000rpm, whereas before it would really complain. It won't make any difference to how it starts or idles, and won't do anything detrimental - it runs this way in all the other gears all the time.

Originally Posted by xaun

How would one go about doing this? I've been having trouble with my SV and, with this in mind, it might have something to do with a retarder problem.

You can find details of how to do this on the 'pointy' shape SV on SVrider, or another commercial SV site.

For the originaly shape SV have a look here and here for two sets of instructions, both giving you the same result in the end (if any).