GSX-R Front end conversion

[phil24_7]

Oops! Keep forgetting to order the sensor, will do it now!

Getting the other bits from somebody stateside who has it all left over from when he did it.

Dunno how long it'll be.

You don't need the speedo for the MOT, do ya? Mines run out so need to get that sorted but don't wanna wait to long before I can go for a proper ride.

[phil24_7]

Just ordered from Farnell, they're in stock and if your an account holder (free and easy to set up) the postage is free. Just over 24 quid for the sensor, now just waiting on the magnets and holders!

[colinsv25]

wots does changing the front end do or help u with just riding style, like the rear guard BTW mr phil very nice:smt045

[yorkie_chris]

just waiting on the magnets and holders!

Eeeep!

Been very busy with exams, will give my mate a kick and remind him to machine them up, he has the dimensions and stuff.
You ordered them from elsewhere or do you want him make you some too?

[yorkie_chris]

wots does changing the front end do or help u with just riding style,

Whole different forks, so you get far more controllable dive on braking, far more pliant over harsh bumps, controllable rebound damping etc. etc. etc.

Also 4 pot brakes on 320mm rotors (on mine anyway) which are rather more powerful.

[colinsv25]

Also 4 pot brakes on 320mm rotors (on mine anyway) which are rather more powerful.

i find the front brakes on my sv are quite sharp any how, i spose the gixer front end would be a bit softer bein a bit sportier than an sv.

[yorkie_chris]

But how much braking effort can you use before it overloads the front end and starts to skip?

Also if you brake into corners at all, mine jumps up when you turn in due to lack of rebound damping.

Main improvement it less brake dive without making it harsh, that's the difference between cartridge forks and damper rods.

[colinsv25]

cartridge forks and damper rods.

i ave no idea wot these r sorry:smt017, and in all fairness i aint really had to stand on the brakes due to nasty roads by were i live and i aint really been on a rideout any where the farthest ive been is bridge north.

[yorkie_chris]

Damper rods = things inside SV forks, oil going through holes, due to a square law of fluid flow, the faster you push the fork the more resistance you get, making them lock solid over a bump, while being underdamped at low speed.

Cartridge = gixxer forks or AK20's or similar, oil flows through a shim stack giving different damping at different speeds of fork travel, meaning you can resist brake dive while still having a fork compliant over sharp bumps as the shims flex to allow more flow.

[colinsv25]

ah now i understand thanks mate

[Lozzo]

ah now i understand thanks mate

Huh!

I've been working on bikes for 30 years and I still have to gen up on suspension stuff before I'm happy enough to go twirling spanners on it. There's a firm about 15 miles away I entrust my suspension set-up to, cos the guys there really know what they're doing... and I don't. Rebuilding forks is a doddle, but setting them up is a whole different kettle of nightmares.

[northwind]

Yep, I'm the same... I can make suspension work, but I can't make it perfect.

[colinsv25]

me neither i know nuthin about suspension just intrigued

[phil24_7]

I know jack about suspension, so setting up will be left to the pros, but I'm pretty handy with a wrench, so I did the conversion myself!

I've ordered the magnets and holders from someone in the states, if he doesn't get back to me soon then I'll order some of of you Lozzo!

[SuperBikeMad]

New to this forum gentleman, i have a 2007 unfaired black SV650 with plenty of mods but iam looking to do the infamous GSX-R front end swap!! But i have a small problem iam quite happy with the original speedo and lamp but how the hell do i mount them to a Gixxer top yoke AND! the semi fairing that come also with SV? Excuse my ignorance if this has allready been discussed in another thread!! :)

Best Regards

[yorkie_chris]

Welcome.

Right, the clocks can be mounted to the new top yoke on the pointy.

The headlight attatches by new headlight clamps, they're a common addition to any streetfighter sort of bike so available pretty much anywhere.

The little flyscreen is attatched to the headlight shell as far as I know.

See my thread "new forks" for details on how I mounted the clocks to the top yoke.

Chris

[SuperBikeMad]

Cheers buddy thanks for the info i seem to have a pretty good idea now, Ive managed to pick up a set of GSX-R1000K4 complete forks and calipers in mint condition for £300!! Considering its exactly £1028.54 per fork leg each i find this to be a bargain!! :)

Best Regards Scott

[yorkie_chris]

Now you just need yokes, spindle, wheel, discs, mudguard and you're done :-D

P.s this site has loads of info about which bits are compatible with what else

http://www.gregoryli.com/search/label/DIY

[SuperBikeMad]

Ye i suppose i do have a long way to go!! And thanks for the site info you wouldnt believe how helpful this is! :)

[Owenski]

what ever happened to this bike?

[Wideboy]

well i turned up to AR....... with the rider sadly

[Rich]

You can often see it parked up at the side of the road empty of fuel and it's owner thumbing a lift yards up the road. ;-)

[phil24_7]

I wasn't thumbing, but I still got a lift!

The bike is still going strong, and was indeed, at the AR.

[phil24_7]

well i turned up to AR....... with the rider sadly

You didn't turn up with me:confused: I was with Kate ;).

[phil24_7]

Well after 2 years and 2 months, I finally got around to fitting the magnets and sensor for the speedo. (I had to buy another sensor as I had lost the first one!)

Anyway, it's reading a bit fast at the mo (2X) so I will have to investigate next weekend!

[Dave20046]

Well after 2 years and 2 months, I finally got around to fitting the magnets and sensor for the speedo. (I had to buy another sensor as I had lost the first one!)

Anyway, it's reading a bit fast at the mo (2X) so I will have to investigate next weekend!
How many magnets have you got in there phil? 4 evenly spaced magnets round the 320mm gsxr disks?

[phil24_7]

Yup, 4 magnets spaced out every other rivet, all set to pull on the sensor.

[Dave20046]

Yup, 4 magnets spaced out every other rivet, all set to pull on the sensor.
****, that's what I was planning on doing - good luck finding a solution...please update if you do:)
Positive it's not something easy like 8 magnets required?

[yorkie_chris]

That would make it read even higher!

I have 4 magnets spaced out evenly and it works fine

[Dave20046]

That would make it read even higher!

I have 4 magnets spaced out evenly and it works fine
So it would:smt120, don't act surprised I just turn the spanners.:-dd

[DarrenSV650S]

4 magnets here too

You sure you don't have newer than K3 clocks?

[yorkie_chris]

He says it is reading fast, opposite problem.

Depending what sensor you have, try space it out from the disc a way. Maybe it is picking up the rivets as well as magnets.

[phil24_7]

The K5 on clocks need 8 magnets, the K3/4 need 4. The only thing I can think of at the mo, is that it is reading the other rivets. Not sure how to space it out any further though, as it's mounted on a bracket that is sandwiched between the mudguard and the fork stanchion.

[yorkie_chris]

What magnets you using?

[DarrenSV650S]

You get sensors that are like a big bolt. So you can unscrew them to get them at the perfect distance.
I would try putting some cardboard or something over the other rotors just now

[phil24_7]

Not sure what magnets as someone off here sent me some from America. I think they are neodinum (sp?). They are glued into some holders that are bolted through the rotor rivet. Thee is only a couple of mm between the sensor and the magnets. It's a 1GT101DC sensor so doesn't screw out. It also cost £20 so I wanna use it if I can!

[phil24_7]

Just having a re-read of my old thread and realised I never updated with the solution.

After a little bit of fiddling I found it was the spacing so after bending the sensor away from the magnets a touch, it now reads perfectly.

[joshwalker094]

final pictures?

[phil24_7]

This was taken a while ago but is basically what it looks like now. The old difference is that now it is a little dusty and is wrapped up in an Oxford Stormex in my garage as I haven't had time to ride it this year!
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z282/phil24_7/IMG_3467.jpg

[dirtyred619]

Just a couple of quick questions if you or somebody knows the answer.

I've got the following front end to fit to mine.

GSXR 750 SRAD yokes
GSXR 750 SRAD front wheel
GSXR 1000 front forks k1/k2
GSXR 750 front axle
GSXR 750 tokico 4 pot front brake callipers
GSXR front mudguard
TL1000 Clip Ons rather than riser and bars.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/dcd32d40970e6fe73c6d5f73ddf03eaf_zpsfd6863b9.jpg

My first question is can I use the brake resovoir of my K4 as I'm not sure the brake lever/resovoir on the above set up will fit with clip ons? If i can great though. If not which to use?

Secondly I'm told this should go on fairly easily, the only worry is will I be able to use the top bearing again off my K4?

The yoke above has the ignition unit in the centre which I believe is fine it just means that the lock will only work with the wheel straight forward rather than off to the left. Is there a top yoke I could swap this with with the ignition set off to the right like my K4?

Any recommendations for somebody to powder coat both my wheels black?

Cheers and sorry to slightly de-rail the thread.

[yorkie_chris]

That m/c and res should be fine.
Yes top bearing should swap.

K1 yokes maybe, look up the matrix of parts and see if offsets and stuff are same to let you just use top.

[dirtyred619]

Cheers Chris, thats set aside my main worries and I can always make do with the top yoke for the time being but at least I'll be able to fit everything on.

[dirtyred619]

Anybody got a castle socket that's needed to tighten the castle nut that I could borrow? Not sure on size and they're fairly pricey to be used only once or twice?!?

[Nobbylad]

Hammer + screwdriver/drift/cold chisel = job jobbed

[dirtyred619]

Hammer + screwdriver/drift/cold chisel = job jobbed

Was thinking that but was unsure if the nut was upto it but also was wanting to try and torque it up correctly.

[maviczap]

Hammer + screwdriver/drift/cold chisel = job jobbed

Or just grind down an old socket of the nearest size

But I made do with the Nobby approach too

[yorkie_chris]

I would say something along the lines of "give a scouser a job and he'll..." but actually my mind won't even process that sentence any further as it just violates all logic.

[Nobbylad]

I would say something along the lines of "give a scouser a job and he'll..." but actually my mind won't even process that sentence any further as it just violates all logic.

You cheeky fecker! :D

I suppose you have all the correct tooling, perfectly cleaned in your pristine workshop?

Or would you hammer and screwie it?

Exactly ;)

[dirtyred619]

I've managed to get a fettled version of the socket now so happy days!

[dirtyred619]

That m/c and res should be fine.
Yes top bearing should swap.

K1 yokes maybe, look up the matrix of parts and see if offsets and stuff are same to let you just use top.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-Gsxr-600-K1-K2-K3-Top-Yoke-001-/251236922176?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a7ee33340

This do the trick perhaps?

[yorkie_chris]

No, 600k1-3 was RWU forks... 45mm dia not the 50 you need

[dirtyred619]

Doh and I bought it aswell! Was cheap enough though ill just have to sell it when it comes!

[dirtyred619]

Or even better just caught him in time and he was happy enough to cancel and refund so there is still the odd decent seller on eBay. I don't know where some of the sellers get their prices from, there's one guy trying to sell a used top yoke for £20 quid more than another guy who's selling the same one but brand new!!

The search goes on.

[dirtyred619]

Made a good start on my swap today so the front is mostly installed just got to set up clip ons and controls and fill and bleed brakes before I reinstall the clocks and plastics.

I've had a couple of little problems, on the left clip on the brake doesn't quite go over enough to allow the indicator control to locate in the hole on the clip on. My 2 solutions that I've yet to do are either file a tad of the clip on away or to get rid of the locater pin on the controls, what do you think is best?

The other one is the brake line screw doesn't seem to want to go into the master cylinder without a lot of force so I've left it for now, is this normal?

Other than that its gone well really, here's where I'm at.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/54f49b435d92e748cac245fcee20dd48_zps22b1ea8e.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/8de5bbe063d9c02dfcf0e82e00f88872_zpsc3488916.jpg

[maviczap]

Don't force the banjo bolt into the M/C, as you will find that some hve fine pitch threads in the M/C and some have coarse threads.

You'll just need to get the correct banjo bolt for the M/C, but I can't tell you what M/C has coarse & which have fine threads

[dirtyred619]

Once it stopped I backed off but it's weird as I tried the bolt with my new lines and the one that was in with my old lines and both wouldn't go, guess ill have to have a bit of patience!

Any idea on the brake? It won't go passed the small lip on the clip on so I can't get the control over enough for the plastic pin to locate in the hole on the clip on. I'm thinking to file/dremel a smidge off the front of the clip on so the brake moves over a bit and I'm thinking that the grips won't fit properly either otherwise.

[maviczap]

Once it stopped I backed off but it's weird as I tried the bolt with my new lines and the one that was in with my old lines and both wouldn't go, guess ill have to have a bit of patience!

Any idea on the brake? It won't go passed the small lip on the clip on so I can't get the control over enough for the plastic pin to locate in the hole on the clip on. I'm thinking to file/dremel a smidge off the front of the clip on so the brake moves over a bit and I'm thinking that the grips won't fit properly either otherwise.

You'll probably find that both are the same pitich thread and the M/C is different!

Can't say what to do with the clip without a closer picture, maybe dremeling a bit off would do the trick?

[dirtyred619]

I'll have another look tomorrow it's just weird that bolt that was in wont go back in!

[phil24_7]

Think I remember dremeling something off when I did mine and painting or permanent markering the bare metal.

[maviczap]

I'll have another look tomorrow it's just weird that bolt that was in wont go back in!

Make sure there isn't a bit of grit on the bolt or on the M/C thread on the inside.

You'll probably find it'll go on as easy as pie tomorrow

[dirtyred619]

It's going well, the master cylinder is threaded, my throttle cable is nearly in half (not sure if that was me testing the steering) and the bike won't start!!

Can the master cylinder be repaired somehow?

The bikes lights are coming on but there's no compression noise?

[yorkie_chris]

Presume you mean fuel pump noise. Kill switch wiring etc?

You might be able to get the master cylinder helicoiled. I don't think I have a coil kit in that pitch though.

[dirtyred619]

Presume you mean fuel pump noise. Kill switch wiring etc?

You might be able to get the master cylinder helicoiled. I don't think I have a coil kit in that pitch though.

Was thinking that about the wiring, has to be something and nothing as I've not really touched anything.

Might be cheap enough to get a new (used) master cylinder hopefully and the throttle cable could well have been my fault!

[phil24_7]

Just get yourself a GSXR master cylinder, they can usually be had quite cheap on ebay.

Regards
Phil

[dirtyred619]

Just get yourself a GSXR master cylinder, they can usually be had quite cheap on ebay.

Regards
Phil

Any particular model/year GSXR M/C

Hopefully got another SV M/C lined up but failing that I'll have a look for a GSXR one. Had a quick look yesterday but some of those breakers on eBay pluck up prices from the ether!!

The bike not starting was me being daft I'd caught the kill switch but I'm glad i did as I don't think I'd have realised the throttle cable was goosed otherwise.

As long as they're the only problems I'll be happy, it's only set me back a bit and once they're sorted I only need to fill/bleed the brakes, reinstall the nose cone and fit some heated grips and I'm done.

[phil24_7]

I'd go for the same year as your brake set up though many will be suitable. I've even got an R1 or R6 (can't remember off hand which one) set up that I planned to fit to my bike, even bought braided lines to suit it, but as yet I haven't fitted either!

Regards
Phil

[dirtyred619]

Think this will do the trick, I'll keep an eye on it if I don't get the SV one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GSXR-750-K1-K2-K3-Front-Brake-Master-Cylinder-/261182942775?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ccfb76e37

[dirtyred619]

Anybody know where I can get one of these from, other than eBay as I could do with it tomorrow, thanks.

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/140833198456?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0

[phil24_7]

Any motorcycle parts or accessory shop, or you can make one. Get a bolt with the right size head and get 2 matching nuts. put nuts on bolt with locktite and you have an instant tool (once locktite has set). If you have any problems with it undoing then you'll need some spot wells around the outside.

Regards

[dirtyred619]

I've had a good look and I think the spindle on the front wheel is the same ad the SV and just undo's from the front brake side. Can't wait to get the wheels powder coated but will need to wait a week to refit the tyres so the bike will be on front and rear paddock stands until then! So think ill wait until they're both refitted to crack on finishing the front end.

[Ratty]

Did you sort yourself a 24mm hex tool ? I have one you can borrow if you are anywhere near Reddish / Denton area if your desperate, but I'm out to work before 6 am in the morning.

Ratty

[dirtyred619]

Did you sort yourself a 24mm hex tool ? I have one you can borrow if you are anywhere near Reddish / Denton area if your desperate, but I'm out to work before 6 am in the morning.

Ratty

I'm hoping I don't need it now but ill soon find out in the morning. If I do need it ill give you a shout and thanks for the offer.

[dirtyred619]

I really am hoping I'm at the stage now where things can only get better lol!

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/df04a944961841e5f0b89c7ae7c3827e_zps54dc679c.jpg

[maviczap]

Its is taking shape, and once you've got over these small problems, you'll appreciate all the hard work you've done.

Black & gold its a classic combination, I might say it looks good, even for a pointy ;)

[dirtyred619]

Its is taking shape, and once you've got over these small problems, you'll appreciate all the hard work you've done.

Black & gold its a classic combination, I might say it looks good, even for a pointy ;)

Thanks, once it's got the wheels back on and doesn't look like a Skidoo it'll look even better.

I know it's the expensive option swapping the front end but its all the other work that makes it that way lol. You find yourself going oh ill change them brake pads, a nice gold chain would look nice, HIDs etc etc!

[dirtyred619]

Can't wait to get these bad boys fitted, cost me the princely sum of £30 for the 2 wheels and carrier powder coated. Can't argue with that, used a company near me in Salford called Colour Code Powder Coaters. Said he can do normal spraying too so ill get the mudguard done and see what the prices are like. If its anything like the wheels might be tempted to get the full bike done!!

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/b98bad3c12d51083764876aa0099bcf0_zps48879a82.jpg

[maviczap]

Nothing like newly powder coated shiny bits. :cool:

Just be very careful to make sure all the threads are clear of any powder coat, as its the best thread lock known to man :D

[dirtyred619]

Nothing like newly powder coated shiny bits. :cool:

Just be very careful to make sure all the threads are clear of any powder coat, as its the best thread lock known to man :D

Will do, think he did a good job of covering all the important bits up.

[yorkie_chris]

I see powder in those disc bolt counterbores...

[maviczap]

Will do, think he did a good job of covering all the important bits up.

Normally they do a good job, but you'd be surprised how strong a little powdercoat can be

I see powder in those disc bolt counterbores...

Yes, that's what I thought & it'll grip the shoulder of the disc bolt, you'll not need any threadlock :(

Just check its proper clean, before putting the discs and bolts back

[dirtyred619]

Ill be careful then, last thing I want is more stubborn bolts. If I put the bolts in a bit at a time then take it out and repeat but a bit further each time that should loosen it and allow me to remove any powder and clean it. Any chance of cross threading at all though if I do that?

[maviczap]

Ill be careful then, last thing I want is more stubborn bolts. If I put the bolts in a bit at a time then take it out and repeat but a bit further each time that should loosen it and allow me to remove any powder and clean it. Any chance of cross threading at all though if I do that?

That's one way, but I got a bolt stuck in a footrest hanger by doing that. I trashed the footrest hanger getting the bolt out, because it was attached to the frame and difficult to get to.

I did use that method for the rear subframe, before I got a tap and die set

If you can afford it, get a thread tapping set and run the appropriate sized tap through the thread to clean it out & use plenty of lube

[DarrenSV650S]

Was gonna say that's cheap but he's created quite a bit of work for you there

[dirtyred619]

To be honest there's not much in there having a good look at them now. I'd rather do a bit of donkey work and pay £30 quid rather than pay £120 that I got quoted at first.

[dirtyred619]

Had to see what the wheels would look like with the gold rotors back on. Had a clean out of all the threads etc, all seems fine wasn't much in there.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/25cb3960954216a30723b95fb5214e2d_zps364a7051.jpg

[DarrenSV650S]

Did you clean the surfaces where the discs sit?

[maviczap]

Nice

[dirtyred619]

Did you clean the surfaces where the discs sit?

I've not yet, won't be refitting everything til next Friday/Sat as the tyre fitter said its best to wait a week before putting tyres back on. I'm in no mega rush so I'm ok with that. Any other bits I should sort out, first time having any powder coating done so all advice welcome.

Nice

Ta.

[DarrenSV650S]

Yeh best to wait a while and keep them somewhere warm if you can. You should get them back to bare metal so the discs are in the right place

[dirtyred619]

Yeh best to wait a while and keep them somewhere warm if you can. You should get them back to bare metal so the discs are in the right place

Yep makes sense that's my next job then.

[dirtyred619]

Well after getting the tyres fitted I've been able to crack on trying to get the swap finished. Not much left now, need to finish fitting the screen and mirrors, wire up the heated grips and change the throttle cable. Oh and the rear wheel was being a pain so that's not fully fitted yet but i thought I best quit for the day before I got the hammer out! Then it'll need a good clean.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/d8f2068db57897c41cbe737c3520ccfc_zps1092e657.jpg

[Wildkid]

Looks great mate!

[phil24_7]

Makes the SV look much more aggressive and totally transforms the handling. Well done fella.

Regards

[dirtyred619]

Cheers guys, I'm hoping its worth all the messing and time, does look good though.

When refitting the back wheel is it best to loosen off the chain tensioners first then re-adjust once on? Just thinking it might make getting the axle through a bit easier.

[Wildkid]

You can do but I've always done it with them in place mate

[yorkie_chris]

No leave them in place. The chain has slack in it so this isn't an issue worth worrying about.

[Runako]

Well after getting the tyres fitted I've been able to crack on trying to get the swap finished. Not much left now, need to finish fitting the screen and mirrors, wire up the heated grips and change the throttle cable. Oh and the rear wheel was being a pain so that's not fully fitted yet but i thought I best quit for the day before I got the hammer out! Then it'll need a good clean.


What clipons did you use?

[dirtyred619]

What clipons did you use?

TL1000's

[Runako]

TL1000's

Are these raised, similar to the SV? Cheers.

[dirtyred619]

They're raised and probably a similar height to the SV but are more raised than GSXR clip ons apparently. These are the ones I bought of Northwind a few pics down.

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=189008