View Full Version : GSX-R Front end conversion
They're raised and probably a similar height to the SV but are more raised than GSXR clip ons apparently. These are the ones I bought of Northwind a few pics down.
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=189008
Yeah, thanks for that. Definitely can't be doing with the GSXR clipons. Cheers
dirtyred619
26-03-13, 10:03 PM
Put in an hour or so earlier and got the back wheel on, wired in the heated grips and finished off fitting the screen and mirrors, so all done except the throttle cables now which I'm not looking forward too having never changed them.
However I forgot to mention the other day that when I put the indicators on, the top 3 LEDs of the rear light on the corresponding side flash aswell and when I tested it before the top 3 LEDs on both sides aren't coming on at all, any ides? 2 steps forward and 1 back at the moment but getting there, here's how it's looking, not much different than the other day.
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/f39a776427e61b00dee913180605324e_zps2bdba12c.jpg
phil24_7
27-03-13, 01:00 AM
Do you have an aftermarket rear light with integrated indicators?
dirtyred619
27-03-13, 01:03 AM
No it's just a normal one. It was fine until the other day and its not like I've touched any wires at the rear either. When it did flash it did so like indicator, light, indicator, light etc I'm thinking a loose wire somewhere maybe.
phil24_7
27-03-13, 08:20 AM
It may be damaged internally as it shouldn't flash and all the lights should be connected on the same circuit.
dirtyred619
27-03-13, 09:53 AM
It may be damaged internally as it shouldn't flash and all the lights should be connected on the same circuit.
I'll put it out there in a thread later on just in case people haven't seen this thread but you reckon a new light unit then? I've got my eye on a couple for a reasonable price on ebay as I was thinking the same and as a second hand one isn't too expensive I was kinda hoping that was the case rather than trying to find an electrical fault!
dirtyred619
27-03-13, 11:37 AM
Sorted now, battery was low, all is well again.
So, just the throttle cable to change now and then to fit the speedo sensor and magnets probably at weekend.
Might be ready for my trip to Wales on Wednesday after all.
Owenski
27-03-13, 01:13 PM
Was just going to say you get moody LED flashes when the battery is playing up but you got there anyway.
Looks cracking now pal, you must be getting giddy about riding that.
dirtyred619
28-03-13, 04:44 PM
Well I've managed to grab a quick go off road (throttle cable still works but not returning as it should until I change it) to have a check that everything felt right. Gotta say I'm happy with my work from the small go I've had, the brakes feel good, obviously the front end works well, heated grips nice and toastie etc, I'll have to wait for a proper go when I've changed the cable and fitted the speedo though.
Anyway I'd just like to thank everyone that's helped me get here, offering words of advice and tips, it's appreciated.
is that a gsxr 1000 forks and yokes?
dirtyred619
30-03-13, 05:00 PM
is that a gsxr 1000 forks and yokes?
Forks yes, yokes are 750 SRAD.
dirtyred619
06-05-13, 08:33 PM
Just having a re-read of my old thread and realised I never updated with the solution.
After a little bit of fiddling I found it was the spacing so after bending the sensor away from the magnets a touch, it now reads perfectly.
How far away from the magnets would you say your sensor is? Mine was reading fine after my first attempt but had the odd giddy moment where it would shoot up to 186 or 68 when I was going 30! I then moved the sensor away a few mm and it seemed fine again. Went down to Oulton Park today and it again had a few glitches that seemed to be set off by bumps in the road but was mainly fine. On the way home it was happening more which was a pain.
My only worry is, that I'm assuming the speedo determines how the mileage goes up and so when the speedo goes up to 186 etc the bike thinks I've covered more distance then I have as I was only going 30. I wasn't sure if it was just me but the last mile of my journey my odometer went up by 4 miles and my total journey today of around 100 miles put the best part of 200 miles on the clock!
Checked the sensor when I got back and it hadn't moved and is nice and solid so it's not that. I'm thinking its still the spacing and or it's reading the other rivets. Just a bit of a pain really but it's also creating false mileage which isn't good. Bikes only on 10,024 now but by rights should be still under 10k.
Any thoughts?
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad253/l-j-p-x/null.jpg
I'm having trouble with me speedo too, when reading 78 I am actually riding around 105/110 according to a friends speedo and a GPS app on my iPhone. Any ideas?
dirtyred619
09-05-13, 01:18 PM
What set up have you got for your speedo?
Nobbylad
09-05-13, 02:16 PM
Mate - whereabouts are you in Manchester? I work in the city centre and all going well will have my bike back on the road this weekend. I'm off Monday, but if you're nearby on Tuesday, I can meet up with you to show you my setup. Might help with your issues.
Will be tapping up this thread about the speedo fix soon enough. But for the moment, do any of you chaps have the steering stem adjuster nut tool (castle nut I believe they are called)?
I don't fancy mangling a socket so if anyone fancies lending their tool t'would be much 'preciated :)
phil24_7
09-05-13, 09:23 PM
I made a bracket out of thin ally to go across the 2 mudguard mounting points, a then cut another bit that fits between the two mounting legs out of the sme thin ally. This means the ally isn't very thick at the mounting point whilst also moving the sensor closer to the magnets. My speedo over-read by quite a bit (roughly double I think) so I bent the bracket away from the brake disc and it's now fine. Just experiment with speedo placement until it's reading correctly.
Regards
dirtyred619
09-05-13, 09:37 PM
Mate - whereabouts are you in Manchester? I work in the city centre and all going well will have my bike back on the road this weekend. I'm off Monday, but if you're nearby on Tuesday, I can meet up with you to show you my setup. Might help with your issues.
Cheers that would be great thanks. Haven't looked at the speedo since Monday so would be great to compare and try and sort it out. I'm in Swinton but work on the Quays so could always get the bike down there.
I made a bracket out of thin ally to go across the 2 mudguard mounting points, a then cut another bit that fits between the two mounting legs out of the sme thin ally. This means the ally isn't very thick at the mounting point whilst also moving the sensor closer to the magnets. My speedo over-read by quite a bit (roughly double I think) so I bent the bracket away from the brake disc and it's now fine. Just experiment with speedo placement until it's reading correctly.
Regards
Cheers I'm hoping that's all the problem is. Just seems weird that it reads normal but then goes giddy after a bit. My brackets similar to yours but just attached to the one mounting leg so I was thinking it was moving about but upon checking it after my ride its still nice and solid. I'll probably make a bracket like yours though to rule out the uncertainty.
phil24_7
09-05-13, 10:13 PM
Mine did that too. Just bend it away from the rotor a little and it should settle down. Mine still does it every so often but it's rare and only fleeting!
dirtyred619
09-05-13, 10:18 PM
How far would you say your sensor is from the rotor? Think mine after moving it away a bit is just shy of an inch away. If anything though its worse than it was before :confused:
phil24_7
09-05-13, 10:21 PM
I have absolutely no idea!!! Make sure your magnets are secure and all the right way around and make sure your bracket doesn't flex too much.
dirtyred619
09-05-13, 10:26 PM
Haha no probs ill get there ill just have to go over everything. Don't want to add any more false mileage to the bike however few.
Nobbylad
10-05-13, 06:20 AM
Will be tapping up this thread about the speedo fix soon enough. But for the moment, do any of you chaps have the steering stem adjuster nut tool (castle nut I believe they are called)?
I don't fancy mangling a socket so if anyone fancies lending their tool t'would be much 'preciated :)
I just bought a deep socket off Amazon for a fiver. Arrived yesterday and I'll be grinding it down tonight ready for using tomorrow. I've just replaced the head bearings and want to get the right torque.
Nobbylad
10-05-13, 06:22 AM
Cheers that would be great thanks. Haven't looked at the speedo since Monday so would be great to compare and try and sort it out. I'm in Swinton but work on the Quays so could always get the bike down there.
Quays is fine as I go home down regent Road towards M602.
From memory my sensor was around half an inch from the disc. I bolt it on the inside of the mudguard mounting post.
I just bought a deep socket off Amazon for a fiver. Arrived yesterday and I'll be grinding it down tonight ready for using tomorrow. I've just replaced the head bearings and want to get the right torque.
I don't have the means to grind it down and I'm loathe to spend yet more money on tools that I'll use maybe only once. Any chance of a borrow once you're done?
Nobbylad
10-05-13, 12:26 PM
By the time you've paid postage there and back, you could have bought a socket (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFXMCW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). A decent hacksaw would probably cut it and a cheap small angle grinder (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Power-500W-115mm-Angle-Grinder/dp/B0098JT8XE/ref=sr_1_17?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1368188757&sr=1-17&keywords=angle+grinder+115mm) is always worth investing in if you don't already have one.
By the time you've paid postage there and back, you could have bought a socket (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFXMCW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). A decent hacksaw would probably cut it and a cheap small angle grinder (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Power-500W-115mm-Angle-Grinder/dp/B0098JT8XE/ref=sr_1_17?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1368188757&sr=1-17&keywords=angle+grinder+115mm) is always worth investing in if you don't already have one.
Or I could just borrow one.
I know what you're saying but there are reasons. For example, an angle grinder requires power. To get power to where I work on the bike requires electricity, which means getting a 10m extension. I then have to get safety equipment stuff if I want to use such tool without impunity etc etc. By the time I could have paid for the postage, I've spent another fifty quid! I understand the advice though so thank you.
Nobbylad
10-05-13, 12:36 PM
OK - just trying to help out.
Assuming I don't kill myself or cut it incorrectly tonight, I'll use it to tighten my bearings and then pm you to sort out the logistics for lending it to you.
phil24_7
10-05-13, 12:53 PM
What about a c spanner?
What about a c spanner?
Yeah, I can tighten it, its just that I've read stories about not torquing it correctly. The SV manual says to tighten to tight and then back of by half a turn or so and then tighten the lock nut but I want to make sure. I'll use the socket with my torque wrench.
Cheers Nobby. Most grateful.
phil24_7
10-05-13, 02:34 PM
It's not hard to get it right. Tighten it then back it off. Check no play in the triple clamp and your done. Mines been fine for 5 years!
Ah good to know. This is pretty much what i've done but I've used a drift. I'll still want to check it at some point but as long as it won't fall apart I'm happy with that.
Nobbylad
11-05-13, 05:40 PM
How far would you say your sensor is from the rotor? Think mine after moving it away a bit is just shy of an inch away. If anything though its worse than it was before :confused:
Here's mine. ....
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/20130511_182436_zpse3863738.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/20130511_182432_zps622e0918.jpg
Where'd you guys get the magnets?
By the way, someone's f*&king lying about how easy this conversion is. From the massive PITA of getting the ignition off, to actually locating its wiring and removing/relocating it to the left side (I have a K8 Yoke), to re-routing the throttle cable's (I look forward to the undoubted spanner in the works when I actually test this) and to routing everything so my clip on risers fit.
A hundred little silly things that no one seemed to mention or maybe didn't have to do. But my K9 decided its special and Mr Suzuki decided no-one should ever try and F*&k with my ignition barrel. I don't even want to mention the weather were having at the minute. I look forward to whatever tomorrow has in store (joy).
Nobbylad
11-05-13, 10:20 PM
Magnets from eBay. Neodium or summat I think. Fecking strong! Probably don't need bolting in, but I did just to be on the safe side.
Personally I didn't think the conversion was too difficult. Yes the ignition was a pain in the hoop but only because the existing bolts holding the barrel had shed loads of loctite on them and the connector behind the rad/headstock is a mare to get to. Everything else was fairly easy and that was before I'd had much experience working on the bike. Weather is a PITA, that's why I did my swap in the kitchen :D
dirtyred619
12-05-13, 09:32 PM
Here's mine. ....
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/20130511_182436_zpse3863738.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/20130511_182432_zps622e0918.jpg
Was gonna fit my sensor like that but I'm sure it didn't line up with the magnets. I'll have another try and see this week as if its worked for you hopefully it will do for me too!
dirtyred619
12-05-13, 09:47 PM
Where'd you guys get the magnets?
By the way, someone's f*&king lying about how easy this conversion is. From the massive PITA of getting the ignition off, to actually locating its wiring and removing/relocating it to the left side (I have a K8 Yoke), to re-routing the throttle cable's (I look forward to the undoubted spanner in the works when I actually test this) and to routing everything so my clip on risers fit.
A hundred little silly things that no one seemed to mention or maybe didn't have to do. But my K9 decided its special and Mr Suzuki decided no-one should ever try and F*&k with my ignition barrel. I don't even want to mention the weather were having at the minute. I look forward to whatever tomorrow has in store (joy).
Magnets from eBay. Neodium or summat I think. Fecking strong! Probably don't need bolting in, but I did just to be on the safe side.
Personally I didn't think the conversion was too difficult. Yes the ignition was a pain in the hoop but only because the existing bolts holding the barrel had shed loads of loctite on them and the connector behind the rad/headstock is a mare to get to. Everything else was fairly easy and that was before I'd had much experience working on the bike. Weather is a PITA, that's why I did my swap in the kitchen :D
I'm with Nobbylad on this really. I thought the conversion was fairly easy although I was a little apprehensive beforehand. Swapping the forks etc I thought was a lot easier than I thought it would be and only took a couple of hours at most. In fact the only problems I had we're brought on myself (managed to knacker throttle cables so had to change them and I managed to thread the M/C as well so that all added to the fun). Did mine over a few weeks though with no rush as I powder coated my wheels as well which from taking wheels off to putting back on took a couple of weeks. There's always unforeseen problems though and just when I thought I'd finished I found the brakes were binding so had to sort that out and now just having a bit of trouble with the speedo but it'll all get sorted. I've not done much work on bikes either before this so I'm far from experienced but its all good and I've learnt lots.
Well it helps if your indoors and have all the tools. I had neither. Don't own a drill & didn't want to buy one for a couple of uses so ended up borrowing one to sort the ignition. Little things were frustrating, like the routing of my wiring. Its seems my dealer did some "creative routing" when installing my heated grips, which left little space and restricted the ignition and clutch cable. So had to re-route to free these up. The spaces were so small that I had real trouble getting to some of the cables.
The ignition barrel needed filing down. Bought files and did the job. But made the mistake of not filing quite enough so a tiny bit of interference at full lock.
Anyway, all back together again and I'm using Dan Moto adjustable clip ons which adds another complication as they're infinitely adjustable but have no guide marks. However, they provide so many more options depending on how I want to ride.
So just went for a spin and immediately noticed a rubbing noise. It seems the lower triple of my K8 Forks is catching against the fairing at full lock. Did no one else have this issue?
Last thing to do is the speedo. Final question then. Does the (Hall Effect) Sensor need to be directly in front of the magnets? For instance, can it be just above the magnets instead? My Puig mudgaurd offers a great mounting point which I'm hoping to utilise.
phil24_7
15-05-13, 10:07 PM
I had the same problem with my triple clamp. You'll find either your rad or the rad brackets are slightly bent/mishapen. You can space which ever side is rubbing out with washers until it no longer catches or take the lowers off and dremel the top corner off. I've replaced my rad now and no longer have the problem.
I fitted K5 bits and had very few problems with anything as it was mainly plug and play. I had to file down a bit on my clutch lever, space my right hand fairing out and make a bracket for the speedo sensor but other than that it was plain sailing.
Nobbylad
16-05-13, 01:19 PM
Ooops! I'd forgotten about the fairings rubbing! I just took some of the top edge of with a file, no biggy - it's hidden anyway.
I have no garage either, so did a combination of outside and kitchen! :D
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0459.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/nobbylad/media/DSCF0459.jpg.html)
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0500.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/nobbylad/media/DSCF0500.jpg.html)
Nobbylad
16-05-13, 01:26 PM
Last thing to do is the speedo. Final question then. Does the (Hall Effect) Sensor need to be directly in front of the magnets? For instance, can it be just above the magnets instead? My Puig mudgaurd offers a great mounting point which I'm hoping to utilise.
I think they could probably be off centre a bit, I would imagine no more than an inch away would be OK, but easy enough to check I guess.
Yes, discovered the fairing problem last night and butchered it this morning. A kitchen is luxury as it means you have light and warmth and not gale force winds that seem to chunnel down my alleyway ala workshop. You also clearly have proper tools. But so far so good. Soldered the speedo wiring, first time ever soldering so almost messed that up. I learn fast but first have to learn the hard way it seems.
Back to one of my questions. I have rare earth magnets which will have to be epoxied to my carrier as I have 10 buttons on the discs. But the Sensor is in a handy pre-made slot on the mudgaurd I'm sporting. Only problem is its above the carrier.
Looking at other swaps, everyone seems to have their sensor within millimetres in line with the magnets but is this strictly necessary? Can the sensor sit above the magnet instead of in line with it?
I didn't want to make a new thread with 'My GSXR Conversion', but I'll make a little one with some of the info I found hard to find or was just missing (for me) such as the correct wiring colours, which was really difficult to locate on searches here. The best clarification I eventually found was on SV Rider.
Ok, you answered my quetion Nobby.
Nobbylad
16-05-13, 01:43 PM
A good tip with things you've never done before (i.e. soldering) is to search on youtube. I've found loads of handy ways to do stuff by searching. You also get the benefit of seeing some really funny examples of how not to do stuff lol.
With regards to the magnets, I didn't epoxy mine into the carrier, I used some tiny bolts/washers, worked a treat. I reckon they're that strong that they don't need fixing in, but didn't want to risk one flying off and jamming in the pads etc.
A good tip with things you've never done before (i.e. soldering) is to search on youtube. I've found loads of handy ways to do stuff by searching. You also get the benefit of seeing some really funny examples of how not to do stuff lol.
With regards to the magnets, I didn't epoxy mine into the carrier, I used some tiny bolts/washers, worked a treat. I reckon they're that strong that they don't need fixing in, but didn't want to risk one flying off and jamming in the pads etc.
Of course Youtube was used many a time, especially for drilling the head off for the iginition barrel screws. But in reality sometimes I hit a problem without realising there would be one, like the fairing. So I just did that myself.
Discs - 10 buttons as in I can't fit eight equidistant from each other so will have to epoxy to carrier to "make sure" they stay in place (Tbh, not that bothered about speedo but odometer is more important).
dirtyred619
16-05-13, 02:16 PM
Discs - 10 buttons as in I can't fit eight equidistant from each other so will have to epoxy to carrier to "make sure" they stay in place (Tbh, not that bothered about speedo but odometer is more important).
Was just gonna say I thought you needed 8 on your model and so 10 wouldn't work, but you seem to have figured that out.
latwelve
18-05-13, 10:15 AM
how much is this conversion roughly costing you all?
Nobbylad
18-05-13, 04:54 PM
how much is this conversion roughly costing you all?
I think I made money when I did mine. If you take your time and don't get ripped for the bits, the only thing it costs is time. But that's a worthwhile investment as you learn so much doing it.
how much is this conversion roughly costing you all?
Not everyone is so lucky as Nobbylad.
The reality is if you sell your front end to fund buying all the bits, your bike will be of the road. Not ideal if you need it.
So you'll probably pay for it up front and recoup the money from your bits. I agree with NL that you could break even or come out on top, but that's not taking into account the time, effort and hassle of selling / posting stuff.
Some are better at this part than others. For me its a struggle because I don't have the time to be chasing potential buyers. But eventually once everything sells, I'll probably break even.
Also, you need to account for all the little things that aren't so obvious but will add to the cost if you want to do a good job. Things like special sockets, torx bits, various nuts and bolts, mudgaurd, speedo sensor mod and possible renewals such as fork or caliper seals/brake pads (if you want to make sure these components are in good condition).
It easy to dismiss these bits as incidental but they actually cost a fair amount when you put it all together. Is it worth it? If you want to get the best out of the SV, then Yes!
phil24_7
18-05-13, 10:25 PM
I wont upset you by telling you how much I ended up making! :)
Nobbylad
19-05-13, 08:10 AM
I wont upset you by telling you how much I ended up making! :)
:D
latwelve
19-05-13, 08:20 AM
Can you give me some further advice then... is it usually best to buy via ebay? buy the legs separate to the yokes? but the mudguard separate, wheel without tyre? calipers with no lines? ect... what did you find worked best?
and did you make the money back by selling your stock forks and wheel?
phil24_7
19-05-13, 09:32 AM
It can be cheaper to buy it all separate but will take considerably longer, especially if your trying to get things for decent money. The easiest way is usually the most expensive...buy a complete front end from the same bike (K4/5 GSXR600 is by far the easiest but not quite as blingy as some of the newer kit) and fit this, all that is needed then is a few bits and bobs (speedo sensor, clip-ons if required, etc)
Regards
Agree with what Phil said. But its certainly and individual choice and comes down to whether you have the patience to wait for a bargain or pick up the bits and pieces for cheap separately. Complete front ends can be hit and miss also. If possible, its always a good idea to see the parts first if you can. As for the combinations, have a look at the swap chart from SV Rider. If its not in this thread, there will be a link on this forum or on the net.
Pricey12
19-05-13, 08:09 PM
Curious as to how this sits with a curvy.
I'm assuming curvy front ends are worth a fair chunk less than pointys so less likely to make your money back on resale parts. Having said that am I correct in assuming the GSXR front end that fits a curvy is the SRAD? I would imagine these are cheaper than the later ones.
phil24_7
20-05-13, 11:55 AM
Correct Pricey12, swings and roundabouts really!
squirrel_hunter
20-05-13, 12:15 PM
Curious as to how this sits with a curvy.
I'm assuming curvy front ends are worth a fair chunk less than pointys so less likely to make your money back on resale parts. Having said that am I correct in assuming the GSXR front end that fits a curvy is the SRAD? I would imagine these are cheaper than the later ones.
Prices that Curvy and Pointy front ends go for in my experience are roughly the same. As for the SRAD, it can fit both bikes though I understand the steering locks work better with the Curvy. An SRAD front end would work out cheaper than say a K8 radial callipered one.
... An SRAD front end would work out cheaper than say a K8 radial callipered one.
Bloody right it would!
Pricey12
20-05-13, 12:53 PM
Think I may be exploring the progressive spring route before I can go the whole hog on a front end conversion as I've just emptied my bank account on a full exhaust system :p
dirtyred619
27-05-13, 03:31 PM
Well think this could be the reason that the speedo was reading off. Not sure how it happened as it was cable tied up with no slack but I did make a school boy error and mount it along the inside of the fork. Any ideas on the best way to rescue this, assume I'll have to strip it, splice in new wire then heat shrink to seal.
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/dirtyred1978/20130527_154844_zpsea81be5b.jpg
Nobbylad
27-05-13, 09:37 PM
Yep. .. splice it for now and keep your eye out for a 2nd hand speedo cable.
dirtyred619
28-05-13, 08:23 AM
Yep. .. splice it for now and keep your eye out for a 2nd hand speedo cable.
Yep got a new soldering iron on order! Would it matter what wire I use as I'll just try to replace the whole 10cm's or so of the damaged area to keep the cable the same length? Any recommendations for heat shrink? Ta
Can you give me some further advice then... is it usually best to buy via ebay? buy the legs separate to the yokes? but the mudguard separate, wheel without tyre? calipers with no lines? ect... what did you find worked best?
and did you make the money back by selling your stock forks and wheel?
The best advice I can give, if you are looking to maximise the money to be made from selling the parts for the conversion, is to keep the original forks etc as, especially if you are looking to part ex the sv at some point, standard bike will be worth more than one that has been modified. You then get top dollar for your bike when it comes to sell, and then you are left with complete gixxer front end that you can either split or sell complete. That way you will probably get your money back.
Nobbylad
28-05-13, 11:30 AM
Yep got a new soldering iron on order! Would it matter what wire I use as I'll just try to replace the whole 10cm's or so of the damaged area to keep the cable the same length? Any recommendations for heat shrink? Ta
Me personally, I'd try and splice each section separately, without adding any cable, so maybe reducing the overall length by an inch or so looking at the pics.
Failing that, any cable the same gauge should be right. I got a box of assorted heatshrink tubing from Aldi a while ago, I think Halfords stock it too.
dirtyred619
28-05-13, 02:39 PM
Me personally, I'd try and splice each section separately, without adding any cable, so maybe reducing the overall length by an inch or so looking at the pics.
Failing that, any cable the same gauge should be right. I got a box of assorted heatshrink tubing from Aldi a while ago, I think Halfords stock it too.
I'll probably do the same then, got enough cable barring a balls up! Was it long when the heat shrink was in Aldi? Got one close by so might go for a rummage unless they were on sale ages ago.
I think the reason this happened is with the cable being run (stupidly) on the inside of the fork, when the suspension has moved it's flexed the cable towards the wheel or brake disc causing the few 'nics' you can see. Silly mistake but won't happen again!
Nobbylad
28-05-13, 02:59 PM
It was years ago, but they rotate the stock every year, can't remember the last time they had it in, but no harm in looking if you're passing. Or check eBay.
dirtyred619
28-05-13, 07:38 PM
I've ordered off eBay just hope it doesn't take too long to arrive so I can finally get things sorted, already probably missed the summer this weekend!
phil24_7
28-05-13, 10:53 PM
I'd personally renew the whole wire. Buy 1 metre of 3 core waterproof flex (if it's a3 core wire) and make the usual connection to the hall sensor, then chop off the plug end and connect to the other end. The plug end will be out of the elements (under the tank) meaning you have less joins that are susceptible to water ingress.
Regards
dirtyred619
06-06-13, 12:34 PM
Well the speedo has been spliced back together, soldered and heat shrunk up. Refitted yesterday and just given it a quick test (at lunch). Need to make sure the odometer is working correctly now but speedo so far seems fine, fingers crossed!!
vBulletin® , Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.