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#1 |
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So I bought the Shed over a year ago (GSXR 750 K1). When I test rode it, the brakes were fine and they were fine for a period of initial ownership. Then they started to 'warp' or whatever, got lots of judder. It got worse and worse until it was down right lethal.
I bit the bullet and got some second hand discs. I also completely rebuilt my callipers, new pads, and even got a new front wheel and spindle. The brakes were true for a while, and now slowly they're 'warping' again. WTF? So to recap!! - Bought bike, no problem. - Judder started and got worse and worse. Could spin the wheel and it would noticeably spin free then lock. - Got so bad I was about to die. - Bought 2nd hand replacement discs - Overhauled callipers - New pads - New (2nd hand) front wheel - New spindle All perfect and hunky dory again ... but now the problem is starting again. Pad wear is all even and normal. So the only thing really that is consistent is the forks. The only thing I can think of is the callipers are misaligned against the discs due to the forks (or the bracket the callipers connect to) not being lined up properly. Otherwise I'm at a complete loss. Any other ideas? For the record I'm very easy on the brakes for the most part, so they don't get hammered.
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MotoGoLoco - You knows it The Shed - Suzuki GSX-R 750 K1 | Triumph Tiger 1050 K6 Fallout Bikes (VLogs, Tutorials, Bike Vids) Fallout Breakbeat (My Music) |
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#2 |
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Master cylinder knackered?
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#3 |
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Master cylinder, or warped wheel perhaps?
does the wheel run true? Could the spindle be bent? You'd see this issue with both. |
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#4 |
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Master cylinder
Twisted, or bent forks. I'd get the bike up and remove the forks and reinstall them and align them before nipping the yokes
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi |
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#5 |
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How can the master cylinder have anything to do with it?
How can it be a warped wheel or spindle when both have been replaced and both times it was fine then slowly became a problem? Are you all drunk?! ![]() Twisted/bent forks seems like the only possible culprit really so far. Removing them isn't something I've done before though. I wonder if there's a way to check alignment before I go that far? Googling for vids now!
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MotoGoLoco - You knows it The Shed - Suzuki GSX-R 750 K1 | Triumph Tiger 1050 K6 Fallout Bikes (VLogs, Tutorials, Bike Vids) Fallout Breakbeat (My Music) Last edited by Fallout; 05-10-13 at 10:57 PM. |
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#6 |
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I'm thinking forks more than anything.
Only real way is to take them out and check, but you can always loosen the bolts (make sure the bikes weight is supported 1st ) the give the whole front end a good giggle and whack....any movement will be heard as te metal moves due to the bolts still being tight enough to create the friction. Also more than happy to help out with it all. |
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#7 |
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nope if your getting pulsing like ABS then its the discs have been out of true when fitted, the mating surfaces of the wheel hub and the disc have to be meticulously clean.
what happens is that the surface of the disc starts to get 'peeks' and 'troughs' as the pads ride over an area and these just get worse as time goes on. warped discs are very rare. classic symptoms are the brakes feel fine then you start getting a very slight judder/pulsing when braking then it just gets worse until the brakes feel like old 80's ABS until the bike is eventually unridable. it's usually not felt when not on the brakes but as soon as you start braking it starts pulsing. cure is either resurfacing of discs if they are still good nick or new discs. i know this is going to sound a bit OTT but when you fit new discs use a runout gauge to check for true if the gauge shows more than +-0.25mm you need to take it off again and rectify it or the same will happen again. |
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#8 | ||
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I almost bought a run out gauge a while back, but didn't spend the dollar because I am cheap. Cheers for the advise though.
I think what I'll do is do some fork realignment as per his video ...
As that's quick and painless. I'll see if that makes anything feel different. If it does, I'll ride it for a bit and see if the problem at least stabilizes. After that I'll get the discs off and thoroughly check the hubs/discs for dirt etc. then tighten them down properly again. Will probably ask around to see if anyone has a run out gauge too. Cheers guy. Cheers Brock for the offer of help too. ![]()
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#9 |
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take it from me they are fubar. i had the exact same thing a few months ago.
took the discs off cleaned them checked alignment etc.etc no gain even fitted new pads. BTW i fully strip and service my callipers every year so know my brakes are in tip top condition. |
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#10 |
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You haven't mentioned disc colour. Are there any blue spots or signs of overheating?
Is there a lot of brake dust on the rims? I'm just wondering if the brakes are binding slightly. If you are happy with the calipers is the master cylinder returning on it's stroke completely. |
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