Clutch drag issue.

Hey guys finally pretty much finished on my bike ready to get back on the road the only problem i have is the clutch or at least clutch drag.

I have followed anna's clutch adjustment guide on here and have adjusted the cable so i have about 10 mm of play in the lever with the lever quick adjuster completely not in use. The lever is firm right from when it engages, none of the parts seem constricted. It feels like it should and moves the clutch a decent amount.

My problem is i pull the clutch in and change to 1st and the bike does a small jerk and then sits quite happily on idle stationery with the clutch lever pulled back. If i rev to 3000k the bike starts to move with the lever pulled in. Yet if i try to use the clutch and move the bike it doesn't bite until the lever is nearly all the way out.

I have searched and looked at all the other posts but didn't come to a conclusive answer. The bike has been sat for over a year. Is it possible this could go when the bike has been ridden a decent distance and the oil heated through? The oil level is fine by the way.

Please help me guys I was going to get it mot'd and tax and insured again this week!

PS. the adjuster screw number 4 on this diagram from annas guide is in almost all the way but still turns (with resistance).

I had pretty much exactly the same problem when i changed the oil. It was perfectly fine before, after a couple of rides it stopped dragging and was back to normal

Originally Posted by Rob969

I had pretty much exactly the same problem when i changed the oil. It was perfectly fine before, after a couple of rides it stopped dragging and was back to normal

I don't really have the option and i have the feeling it will probably get a mot fail if i take in. Do you reckon if i just leave it to run for a decent while it'll run the oil through. I could put it on the axle stands and leave it on idle in gear or in neutral....

What's the best way to run the oil through, to try and get it flushed through?

I've not had any issues with Sv clutches but I have had various issues in the past with other bikes.

Some reasons for Clutch drak include:

Notched basket fingers which prevent the clutch plates separating. Usually from hard and vicious starts and gear changes. Easy enough to fix. Take thew clutch basket out and gently file down the notches making them smooth again.

Warped Clutch plates. Usually from an overheated clutch. Take the plates out and check with feeler gauges on a piece of glass or other flat surface for warp.

The Worm drive is worn and is not lifting the clutch as far as it should (doesn't sound like this).

The clutch cable is knackered and is moving a the top but stretching due to snapped cable wires. (unusual)

Manky Oil. Drop and replace.

And thats about it. Also check the push rod isn't corroded and getting caught in the oil seal. This doesn't help with the action.

I'd change the Oil first, then check the frist two above. My guess would be notched clutch basket first and warped plates second.

C

[Geodude]

I had same problem with clutch drag and did all the usual fixes (oil, worm drive etc) which didnt solve the problem and was told it would fail the mot by my local garage so i bit the bullet and replaced the clutch and have had no problems since.

[Viney]

Mine was knackered clutch plates in the end after changing the basket, bearings, accuator, etc etc.

Why on earth would a bike fail its MOT because of it? I dont think that my bike has ever even had the engine running during an MOT

Thanks for the suggestions so far guys.

I did a bit more research myself, I'm going to check the bearings in the actuator first because when i was looking at it the motion seemed to essentially lean against the sides before going in.

I've checked the clutch cable itself it could do with some lube but moves the same amount by the lever as it does down by the push rod.

I'll go get some new oil when I can. Probably be ordering online. As such i can get pretty much exactly what i want. Any suggestions on a specific oil? Last time i used castrol gps power1 4t 10w-40.

Good Oil and on sale at Cosco for £6.45 for 4 litres (plus VAT) at the moment!

The actuator seems to run smoothly now its adjusted right.
Just looked up the entire clutch procedure and it seems i had over tightened the screw pushing the push rod further out. This meant that when i tried my bike a minute ago i tried to get it moving with the clutch and it didnt actually move whilst in gear and lever all the way out!

Yet still creeps forward when in gear with the lever back at the bar. I have a feeling then that the mechanism is fine at least all the way through to the push rods.

One thing i noticed. The oil that is in there probably only had a few hundred miles tops before my crash. I had checked it properly for levels by running the bike for 5 minutes till warm and then leaving it for 3 minutes as the manual instructed and with the bike upright check the sight glass. Before it was fine. However today I spotted that the sight glass is completely full of oil under the same conditions. So it is over filled with oil. Which if i'm not mistaken means there could be more pressure meaning more fluid drag between the clutch plates? I can essentially drain a bit of oil cant I and then check can't I? I mean there is no reason why not like contamination or anything I've never heard about?

Changed the oil still persists. Have to just persist, get her back on the road and then see if it irons itself out over time as it gets run. Will update if anything changes.