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#1 |
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Just looking at race tech emulators for a pointy sv. I have a coup,e of questions about them
1, Has any body fitted these, if so are they easy to do? 2, what price to have done my a shop? 3, would they be worth for my bike as I'm planning to mainly use I on track but still do about of touring? As for shock i see people use gsxr or zx10 shock but would I be better off with nitron sport shock? I'm not planning on doing this work till next year as money is tight but I still want to keep the costs down as this bike will be ridden for fun rather than trying to break track records. Thanks |
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#2 |
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Hi Chris,
Fitting the emulators is very simple, plenty of people have done it. To get the best from them the instructions advise modifying the damper rods which means taking the forks apart, to drill out the compression holes and perhaps weld up a rebound hole. This is not essential to their operation and you can fit them without doing this (I have with a road and track SV at present). If you're not in a hurry you can try using the Debrix emulators as talked about here. They need a bushing made so they can fit the pointy SV but they are cheaper than the racetec versions. There are several shocks that can be fitted, most require some sort of modification to the bike to fit (though some are quite straightforward). The easiest route to getting a good quality shock set up for you is to fit something like a Nitron Sport or Nitron Street shock. It'll fit, it'll work and it'll be sprung and damped correctly out of the box. But that does cost more and if you can find a ZXR or GSXR shock that suits your weight and riding style they are cheaper. Jambo
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#3 |
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As Jambo says, you can just drop the Racetech ones in, you'll have to shorten the spacer tubes in the fork tops by an inch (height of an emulator). They don't make the forks noticeably stiffer - if you haven't already got aftermarket springs then get them. They do make the comp damping much more subtle as in stock form it's pretty crude. I would set them to the "road" settings from Racetech which is 2 turns of emulator preload. You need a stupid Imperial size Allen key for this. Also the springs on the emulators are very soft, so be careful setting the preload. You wind the Allen bolt in by hand until the slop has gone, then turn it in another 2 turns then lock it. Because it's so soft you need to do the first part by eye i.e. look for the gap disappearing.
Price from a shop? You'd get it done at the same time as a fork oil change. |
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#4 |
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Thanks for the advice, I changed spring and oil in my last sv with maxton spring and it made a massive improvement and changed the shock for a k3 gsxr shock.
I'm just a bit concerned that now I have ridden bikes with great suspension set up that the the above wouldn't be enough to give me confidence to fling the bike it corners. However, I'm not made of money so don't want spend it on improvement that I won't notice. |
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#5 |
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#6 |
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I will be ordering DEBRIX EMULATORS
http://www.debrix.com/41mm-Fork-Damp...t.htm?CartID=1 I will order them on the 30th November. So anybody wanting to tag on to this order let me know! More peeps = bigger discount! [Rods being modified for the Emu's by YC (cheers)] Kenny |
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#7 |
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I've got the race tech emus and I'm more than happy to throw it around on the road, but it's not seen the track yet, I also went for new springs at the same time so not sure on effectiveness of the emus on their own, but they are great for the road with new springs, think it was two hours labour + parts with loose forks (emus, oil and springs) for the garage.
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#8 |
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When I did my pointy suspension I bought K-tech 0.85 linear springs, debrix emulators & new silkolene rsf pro 10w oil. Then I just unbolted my front forks, boxed 'em up with the springs, emu's & oil and sent the lot to YC. He did the damper rod modification, made up the spacer to locate the emu's properly, then he re-assembled the forks with the new springs & oil and sent them back to me.
From leaving me to getting them back, I was only without the forks for seven days. When I got them back it was just a case of bolting the forks back onto the bike and setting preload. Price was very reasonable and doing it this way suited me at the time due to the wife having just had baby number two. I'd definitely recommend YC although you'd be best to discus prices etc privately with him. I went with a ZX10r rear shock but did that myself as it's a much quicker and easier job. The whole package worked well for me and was much, much better than standard. HTH ![]() |
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#9 |
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If you want the VFM route then change the fork springs first and then add the emulators when you can afford the extra time and money. To be honest once you've got the forks in buts the extra bit of money on parts for the emulators is worth it. If your main use is track then seriously consider the GSXR front end route - it'll mess with your cash flow but if you sell the OE bits off again you won't be so out of pocket, I'm told. Deffo better forks all round, plus better brakes. I ride my SV on a track a couple of times a year, and maybe linear springs instead of the progressives would help the feel, but if you really want to tramp on then the front end is the weak bit. The rest of the bike is up there though I'd say.
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#10 |
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Big difference especially on track. All the Minitwins we prepare for racing have the Racetech emmulator setup and a Nitron shock (the race one - the sport shock is very good though) and the lads that race them really do push them to the limit.
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