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#1 |
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I have new (i.e. non OE) springs and emulators fitted to my front forks.
I changed the seals the other week and fitted 15w oil whilst I was at it (previously 20w and felt too stiff to me). After reassembling the first leg, I gave it a try by hand (i.e. still out of the bike and just put my weight on it). There was a definite stick, then a ‘click’ (both audible and physical sensation) then the suspension started to move. I assume that was the emulator valve opening. It was the same on the fork I hadn’t dismantled, so I presumed at the time it is just how they were and not that something hadn’t gone back together properly. Oh and I have set the emulators to 2-turns as recommended from someone on here. Anyhow, is this just simply what they are like or should I re-visit the forks? I am going to go to 7.5w oil too as I still think the front is too stiff for my liking. Or should I back the emulators right off? I presume it is the ‘preload’ on the emulators that sets the threshold at which the emulator opens!? |
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#2 |
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Never run an emulator set up myself ,but, obviously there will be something to overcome before the valve opens - I would have thought that 15W oil was way too heavy for your set up though 12.5W was what I ran in a standard set up and that was good. 7.5 sounds about right.
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#3 | |
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Here for Greece 20w and 1+3/4 rounds are good albeit they get too stiff in winter but then again I don't do any serious riding during winter. |
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#4 |
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According to the tuning notes that come with the emulators, more emulator valve spring preload gives more compression damping and can be set from 0 to 7 turns. The oil viscosity is used to set the rebound and from 5w to 30w can be used. I thought that they were too firm as well until I had the static sag adjusted correctly using the correct length main spring preload spacer. It is a lot of fiddling, but once it is right, it is *really* right!
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#5 |
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Cheers guys.
I have actually now stripped the forks and reassembled with 7.5w oil and the emulators preload wound right off (thanks for the tip that it can be used from 0-7, I have had a debate about that in another thread ![]() The suspension is much softer now, but perhaps still a little over sprung, but hey!!! Also there isn’t really enough rebound (for the spring) … So I either want to go a bit thicker on oil, or get a softer spring! Softer springs is what I would ideally need/like, but as that is costly, I’ll probably go for 10w oil. |
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#6 |
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Good to hear that you are homing in on the ideal. A spring matched to your weight really is the perfect solution. I have 0.8kg/mm springs and will probably adjust the emulator to 2.5 turns preload, and use 10w oil and see how it goes...
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#7 | |
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![]() ohh thats an idea ![]() ![]() |
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#8 |
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Location: Doncaster, oop norf
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The click is presumably the emulator - it opens for high-speed comp damping, the little hole in the hat of it is for low speed damping (as I understand it - Rob may come on any minute and tell us the truth), so it depends how fast you were bouncing it I think. Not noticed it on mine.
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#9 |
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After a bit more research and a bit more talking with the Racetech folk, I ended up doing the opposite to what I said above. I now have changed the 15w 2 turn emulator preload setup for 20w and 1.5 turns. The difference is very significant. The bike feels more stable all round and no longer wants to fall into slower turns.
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#10 | |
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![]() The springs are too stiff in mine for my liking (85s), by reducing the damping significantly I have been ‘bodging’ it to soften the front really. But it has worked, it is much more rideable now \ ![]() What made you change tack? |
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Starting problem........clicky/clicky/clicky | STRAMASHER | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 15 | 21-07-07 07:06 AM |
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