rear shock change

if you want to keep a higer ride height then yes but what size i dont know, the higer the tail the faster the turn in so you could add 40mm dogbones and still get a good raise even with the smaller shock and reep the benefits of a more flickable bike

i have the gsxr1000 shock thats 8mm longer than stock (pointy) and 30mm dog bones and 5mm drop on the front forks all of that makes the bike turn in faster

Originally Posted by koss

So I need to compesation with longer dog bons.

That, or increase spring preload to raise the rear, if you have enough adjustment for it.

And i think dog bone length affects ride height more than shock height.

^ wt ??? pre load dosent raise the ride hight... the shock is the length it is that cannot be changed, unles you have a ride height adjustable shock

and preload must be set to the right setting for you weight ...

[Bibio]

shocky hight will raise or lower the bike by whatever the size is, e.g. 10mm drop will drop the bike by 10mm.

dogbones will drop the BACK of the bike by what ever the size is, e.g. 10mm drop will drop the back of the bike 10mm. doglegs are 1mm difference to originals = 10mm drop at back of bike. so doglegs that are 3mm longer than standard will drop the back of the bike by 30mm. if using doglegs to lower the bike you also need to lower the front to get any real noticeable difference in ride hight.

[Bibio]

ooohhh and to raise hight you need shorter doglegs.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Bibio

shocky hight will raise or lower the bike by whatever the size is, e.g. 10mm drop will drop the bike by 10mm.

dogbones will drop the BACK of the bike by what ever the size is, e.g. 10mm drop will drop the back of the bike 10mm. doglegs are 1mm difference to originals = 10mm drop at back of bike. so doglegs that are 3mm longer than standard will drop the back of the bike by 30mm.

You've got most of that wrong mate.

There's a leverage ratio at play, shock height is not directly proportional to ride height at all.

Also dogbones change the entire leverage ratio, so you don't know whether you're making the linkage more progressive or more toward linear, anything could be going on.

IMO for more ride height it's better to use a longer shock. That way you're not causing more unknowns by changing the leverage curve.

[Bibio]

i'm talking seat hight. i found that using dogbones made very little difference to the hight as opposed to a shorter shocky. the dogbones i got were suposed to lower the bike by 40mm, they never, the shocky i got was about 25mm difference compaired to the original, the bike dropped by about the same hight after i had done it.

Thanks guys, but I think that I'll use standard leng shock 330mm.

Originally Posted by Bibio

i'm talking seat hight.

It makes no sense to use seat height. You measure from axle straight up.
Ratio is about double between shock and wheel travel. If shock compresses 10mm wheel will travel 20+mm (not sure exact on pointy, curvy is about double, pointy changes in travel due to progression in linkage). So, 10mm shorter shock will push wheel up 20mm. It will also pull linkage up in its circle.
When you put shorter doglegs to compensate it pulls wheel back down. You restored your ride height and swingarm angle but you totally screwed up how your linkage works. Like Yorkie said, you have no clue any more where it starts, where it ends and where progression is. It is bad enough that stock has progression, never mind adding more. Right way would be to change triangle link and doglegs and get rid of progression.
Curvy is little better because it is linear.

[Red Herring]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

You've got most of that wrong mate.

There's a leverage ratio at play, shock height is not directly proportional to ride height at all.

Also dogbones change the entire leverage ratio, so you don't know whether you're making the linkage more progressive or more toward linear, anything could be going on.

IMO for more ride height it's better to use a longer shock. That way you're not causing more unknowns by changing the leverage curve.

Sorry to be pedantic YC but changing the length of the shock can also have an effect on the ratio as it alters the angles involved in the linkage, almost more than changing the dogbones.

The shock is attached to the centre of the linkage which is fixed to the chassis (and rotates around) at it foremost point. Lengthening and shortening the shock will move the linkage and alter the angle that it sits at.

The dogbones join the linkage to the swingarm and changing their length simply adjusts the angle that the swingarm sits at in relation to the linkage (a side effect of which is to alter the ride height), they do not alter the arc that the linkage will move through as the suspension flexes. They do have some effect on the ratio as they alter the angle that the swingarm operates at in relation to the shock, but it's nothing like as extreme as some persons suggest.

I've tried both avenues. First I raised the ride height by adjusting the length of the shock, then I tried keeping the shock the standard length and fitted shorter dog bones. Ride height was the same in both set-ups but the later configuration works much better for me.