rear shock change

mine was just done up to the torque that suzuki supply for the gsxr no idea if it pivots or not, works though

[Nobbylad]

Hmmm.....I tightened it up before I bolted up the dog bones, only when I went to bolt them up and the shock needed to move, only it wouldn't. I loosened it off to pivot it and then did it up again, just not as tight.

Hi fella, Is your pointy shock still ok, cos i need one,and i don,t do the miles to warrant putting a better one on


Mark

[yorkie_chris]

The shock is meant to pivot on this point, but only about the bush in top of it. The inner should be fixed to frame.

[Nobbylad]

Originally Posted by potnoodle

Hi fella, Is your pointy shock still ok, cos i need one,and i don,t do the miles to warrant putting a better one on


Mark

Yes mate, bit dirty but still OK, it's off an 08 bike. PM me and we'll sort out postage etc.

[Nobbylad]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

The shock is meant to pivot on this point, but only about the bush in top of it. The inner should be fixed to frame.

OK - so I should be able to tighten the top to the right torque and that holds the centre of the shock, and then the shock pivots around that bush? Should it be possible to 'overtighten' it such that it ceases to pivot, or is there another problem?

[yorkie_chris]

No it should not be possible to overtighten it to point it will not move.

It only needs to move 20 degrees or something, not movement like a bearing, it is an elastic type bushing.

[Nobbylad]

Ah right, gotcha...will check tomorrow and pick up a new torque wrench from Halfrauds. Ta

so this shock change is a ball-ache then i guess, looking at pictures, more fiddley than hard?
just managed to get hold of mint con. 2002 gsxr shock.

may have to invest in abba stand,

how hard on a scale of 1-5 would you say it is?

thanks,
Craig.

Originally Posted by craigr91

how hard on a scale of 1-5 would you say it is?

2, with one being the easiest. If you get a shock that needs the battery box cut thats the most difficult bit, but only because it's difficult to get to. If you have a dremel with a small cutting disk it would be easy. You don't need to remove all the plastic under tray like the guy above did, unless you want to to make that access easier.

Remove the riders seat, unbolt the dogbones at the bottom, unbolt the shock at top and bottom and drop it out the bottom, put the new shock in, and measure where the cut in your battery tray needs to be, remove the battery, cut the battery tray, fit the shock, bolt and torque everything back up, cut a piece of foam to place in the bottom of the battery tray that the battery will sit on to bring it clear of the shock reservoir, cut the two foam blocks on the bottom of the riders seat, refit the seat.