Clutch lever switch bypass? Pointy

Yeh but what's the point in that?

K

Yep if it was as easy as moving it then it can just be linked out. The issue is that it drops fueling too (when the clutch is pulled) to make changing gear less jerky.

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

You need the switch on the pointy as it runs a map that cuts the power when bypassed

Whhhaaaattt?
That's the first I've heard of that!
On those pointes I've rebuilt recently the first clutch switch was FUBAR as is a common fault on pointes, i didnt take any chances so on both bikes I bypassed the switch with a snip and twist of the wires. Its the same with the side stand, it can be bypassed to remove the chance of it ever failing/clogging and causing you to fail to start.

All the switch on the perch tells the loom is if the lever is engaged or not, its just a open/closed connection. Used when starting the bike to make sure hitting the start button won't have the bike pulling away.
It will prevent the bike starting if the connection is open but wiring it closed causes not effect to running, Same with the side stand cut out, you can bypass that too it certainly doesn't kill the bike if you do.

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by Owenski

Whhhaaaattt?
That's the first I've heard of that!
On those pointes I've rebuilt recently the first clutch switch was FUBAR as is a common fault on pointes, i didnt take any chances so on both bikes I bypassed the switch with a snip and twist of the wires. Its the same with the side stand, it can be bypassed to remove the chance of it ever failing/clogging and causing you to fail to start.

All the switch on the perch tells the loom is if the lever is engaged or not, its just a open/closed connection. Used when starting the bike to make sure hitting the start button won't have the bike pulling away.
It will prevent the bike starting if the connection is open but wiring it closed causes not effect to running, Same with the side stand cut out, you can bypass that too it certainly doesn't kill the bike if you do.

It was SV650Racer that put it on here earlier this year, IIRC


sent from place where even the devil is afraid

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

It was SV650Racer that put it on here earlier this year, IIRC
d

I'm not discrediting it, i m just stating its the first I've heard of it.

[andrewsmith]

I know your not mate. I Can believe it on the newest bikes on the market or uses a canbus loom
You've got a pm about something else.

sent from place where even the devil is afraid

Common on replacement levers, can't you just drill a small hole and pop a screw in where the sensor is to push on it.
A faff but should work.
Or just short the sensor?

[aesmith]

Looking at the wiring diagrams there's a wire from the ECU to the negative side of the starter relay coil. The clutch switch connects that wire to ground, thus doing two things (1) completing the starter circuit so that when the start button is pressed current can pass to ground through the relay coil and (2) grounding the terminal on the ECU.

Potentially those two functions could be separated, allowing you to permanently connect (1) to ground, but leaving (2) open circuit. Have a look at the diagram on 4-13 FI Diagnostics chapter and see if I've misunderstood?

Thanks for further feedback guys, its starting to get interesting again. The reason i have asked about this is purely on a personal preference with the feel, theres no performance improvements at all, but im also a constant tinkerer. I have run a CRG lever and perch which runs on bearings and i use a venhill easy pull clutch cable which has given me a really nice feel to the clutch and bite point on my RS and previous bikes and as its not being used at the moment, i would really like to use it again to see if i get the same results on my SV.

From my experience, it doesn't seem to make any difference on an SV. I think it's more applicable to the GSXR... I haven't had a clutch switch on mine for 4 years. Various dyno runs don't show it to be affecting much either...