Remote start

I'm sure I remember something about a resistor in the ignition barrel and needing a key in the ignition before starting the bike...

I may be way off the track here and I'm sure someone will correct me if I am.

[northwind]

Originally Posted by SoulKiss

To work this would mean you would have to be on the bike, the sidestand up and the clutch held in.

Why? The sidestand cutout doesn't have any effect when you're in neutral. That gives you a reasonable basic safety measure, the bike won't start in gear and fall over unless it's unluckily falsely detecting a neutral, which isn't very likely. Bypassing the clutch, well, I've done that anyway.

so would this be possible for the remote start.

1. rig the neutral light into some sort of unit that only allows power to be directed to the starting motor from the switch when it detects a resistance from the neutral light.
2. only con i can see is false neutral?
3. bike wont start at all if no neutral light resistance present (so wont topple over if kids have touched it) So will allow safe by passing of clutch and stand switch.

[yorkie_chris]

Here's my take on it.

You need 3 conditions to start the engine.

1 Power supply to ignition live feed which is an orange with white tracer.
2 resistance value supplied to orange and red wire from ignitor box
3 power supply to yellow and green wire momentarily to crank bike

This is all about the curvy.

If you do not go to a completely automatic ignition switch or only run the ignition live from the automatic circuit then you're going to have problems, as merely feeding the ignition hot has a pathway to try and power the whole bike, if you've left the light switch on then it may blow the ignition fuse.

So, when signalled to "autostart", power relays.
Power the "signal" circuit.
Feed to neutral light activates relay/transistor (normally open) #1
Feed through this relay is then only live when bike in neutral, if you put this to the ignition live, possibly with a diode to prevent this from powering anything but the ignition.

Relay #2, again, normally open, takes ignitor box orange/red wire through a 100kohm (iirc) resistor and then to earth.

Now the complicated bit, you have another "path" from the ignition live, to the start relay, don't bother about the clutch switch as this path will bypass it. This has the potential (fnarr)... to wind the engine over ... HOWEVER .. it can't just be "on" you need something there to either give it a couple of cranks, then stop, or detect when the engine is sustaining.

Also, you need an automatic choke of some sort.


Does it seem easier to stop being lazy, stick the key in and press "start" yet?

[SoulKiss]

Originally Posted by northwind

Why? The sidestand cutout doesn't have any effect when you're in neutral. That gives you a reasonable basic safety measure, the bike won't start in gear and fall over unless it's unluckily falsely detecting a neutral, which isn't very likely. Bypassing the clutch, well, I've done that anyway.

Good point - so the sidestand switch COULD act as a method of stopping your bike running away.

i'm all for a kickstart on my sv...

[Stu]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Also, you need an automatic choke of some sort.

That's the simplest & best upgrade for any curvy

[yorkie_chris]

I doubt that. They're as bad as manual chokes for playing up, and it isn't exactly an easy conversion...

[SoulKiss]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I doubt that. They're as bad as manual chokes for playing up, and it isn't exactly an easy conversion...

Sure it is, trade your curvy for a pointy

Simple

[yorkie_chris]

What and get more wiring to rot that's only there to keep the euro-crats happy?

Nah.