Loosening stuck nuts?

Originally Posted by AndyL

Not exactly (I will explain). I always used a torque wrench to tighten up the nut with the torque wrench set to 100Nm. However I did do one thing that was probably out of the ordinary.....

The last time I adjusted the tension I noticed that the slider/marker on one side of the swingarm was hard to move so I hammered the bolt out a little bit to allow some room. However, when I came to tighten the nut back up I didn't hammer the bolt back through again, so it ment that when I tightened up the nut, it was pulling the bolt through. Im not sure if this could have damaged anything? I dont think it could have though because I used the torque wrench for all of it.

Could this have damaged the threads?

It might have but the rear wheel is not that heavy is it? You sure your wrench isn't knackered? You shouldn't leave them loaded up when you have finished using it.

[yorkie_chris]

Leaving them loaded up will make them click early as far as I can figure.

Battering it could have wiped a bit of swingarm alloy into the threads, or distorted a thread. Follow embees advice, if that doesn't work then you will need a new nut, maybe a new spindle.

If going by your sig and its a K8, is the bike not under 2 years from new ?

If so, warranty claim maybe providing its not too badly mashed.

Realistically, this could have happened if a dealer was adjusting the chain so they may have had to resolve it anyway.

Just a thought..............

Just got back from the delear and they had a hell of a game trying to get the nut off the rear spindle. Once they did it could be seen that both the spindle and the nut was knackered, they wreckened it was down to a manufacturing default and replaced free of charge under warranty. Happy ending

[yorkie_chris]

Put it back with some coppaslip and 10% less torque, could be a useful option.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Put it back with some coppaslip and 10% less torque, could be a useful option.

The dealer put some copper slip on it before he tightened it up.

YC - pls explain the -10% torque bit? Isn't that going to cause the nut to be loose? Or is that an acceptable margin? I ask only cos I wouldn't usually dare not to follow the torque setting in the manual.

[yorkie_chris]

Torque given in the manual is dry assembly torque, so by adding copper slip you reduce the resistance from the threads.

Torque is bolt stretch + frictional element, more stretching force means threads are pushing against each other harder.
So, if you reduce the friction, a set torque is going to put more "stretching force" into the bolt.

So, with copper slip, you are not actually following the torque setting. The 10% fudge factor is reckoned to keep the tension about the same.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh

tvm Chris