Racetech emulators

[yorkie_chris]

Anything can be made to fit, also TL1000 parts, hayabusa, ZX6Rs

But for simplicity use GSXR SRAD parts then it all bolts up fine.

You swap the yokes, so from the head bearings forward the bike is GSXR

Tyre, sometimes you do, most of the time you don't and you'd swap tyres over onto your new wheel.

It is sometimes cheaper to buy a complete front end from one bike. Also then there is best chance of getting tyre included. But there is no reason you need all parts to be from the exact same bike

Ok thanks. Can the tyre of an SV fit an SRAD front wheel ok? Also did you get your new wheel powder coated to match the back one? If you did how much did it cost? And would the bottom thingy on the forks have to be powder coated or can you paint them?

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah tyre intended for either bike works fine
No I didn't bother, the SRAD wheels are available in all the stock SV wheel colours anyway.
You can paint the fork lowers, do a search on here. I think the silver matches the frame TBH.

Kat, you will be amazed by the improvement in handling of your bike once you sort the suspension. But when installing emulators there are a fair number of variables involved, so don't expect perfection on your first go. You'll need to adjust all these variables to your weight and riding style, and an experienced suspension 'guru' will be a big asset.

In my case, I'm about 185 lbs outa the shower (195 ready to ride). The guy who did my suspension suggested 0.90kg/mm springs, which seemed a little stiff compared to the calculator on the Race Tech site:

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...pringType=Fork

I reckoned (a) he knew his stuff, (b) the springs will soften some over time, and (c) it's easier to cope with 'oversprung' than undersprung.

If I interpret your avatar as indicating that you're female, if you're around 125 lbs you might not even need to change the stock spring rate (0.70), but the stock springs are probably clapped out after several years and likely would need refreshing.

It took me two goes to get the other settings right. Initially, I went with 10 wt oil, 2 1/2 turns on the emulators, a 195mm spacer, and 120mm air gap. 2 months and 3000km later, it had become obvious this was not sufficient. I went back and switched to 20 wt oil and 4 turns - the gap was left at 120mm. I've been riding 'on cloud nine' ever since. The front end is firm and well controlled, but not harsh or 'sharp' - I'm super-impressed. I put on about 25,000km per year, so I plan to replace the oil this spring (one year in). I'll then decide whether that needs to be an annual or biannual event.

It's important to (roughly) match the suspension at the front and rear of the bike - you don't want to be riding aggressively with firm forks and a wallowing, stock rear shock for instance, not for long anyway. As others have mentioned (and as you've obviously surfed up on the web), there are a wide variety of shock choices - do any one of them and you'll have improved the pleasure-giving characteristics of your SV immensely!

Btw, I'm not sure what the going rate in the UK is (and it's possible to do some of this work yourself), but here in Vancouver I had the best suspension guys in the area do the work for me, and it cost only 2 hrs labour to re-jig the shocks (and the work actually took more like 3 hrs), while the follow-up oil/tension switch was only a half-hour charge (with the actual time involved being about an hour, incl removal, disassembly, cleaning, adjustment, re-assembly, and remounting).

Have fun!
Cheers,