Clutch drag issue.

Time to pull the clutch cover and check the basket and plates. Its about ah hours job providing you haven't got a fairing to remove. No specialist tools required. an 8 and a 10 mm spanner should do it. if you're careful removing the cover you should be able to re-use the gasket.#

Just one more question: Your oil wasn't milky when you removed it was it? No coolant leaking into the Oil?

C

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[Viney]

If you are going to remove the plates etc, if its the original suzuki clutch then one of them has little bands on the tabs, remember where this goes. Also, if you have a cordless screwdriver with a 10mm socket on it, it will make it a less tedious job removing the 6 bolts as they are a fiarly fine thread and under pressure of the spings.

The old oil was fine, a bit darker than i expected owing to its age but fine none the less.

Is there a good way to check it without draining the oil? Otherwise I will leave it to be ridden a bit to see if it works its way out. Its not a powerful drag, I can hold it just by leaning back with it sat at 6k rpm with no too much issue. The reason why I'm reluctant to think it is the clutch plates as they surely would do a much better job.

[Biker Biggles]

I think you need to identify exactly when the drag issue started,particularly if it was straight after you dropped it.If so you probably disturbed the actuating mechanism or bent something.If it has come on gradually since before you dropped it then oil or worn plates/worm drive are more likely suspects.

Your symptons are exactly the same as what i had. Take it out for a ride and see what its like after you get everything up to temperatue. Once mine warmed up it stopped dragging. After a few more rides it was fine. Spoke to my local bike place when i took it in for an MOT and he said that he's not sure why it happens but sometimes after an oil change this happens but usually stops after a few rides

After a few runs up and down the road with a tweak here and a tweak there i have gotten rid of the drag but i am almost sure that the plates are worn to limits because from my bite point to cable being slack is about 5mm of lever travel and once engaged it slips.

why would it fail an mot?
The have no need to turn the engine on as bikes do not have emissions tests..
My bike had awful clutch drag on it's last mot but the engine was never started as there was no reason for it to be.
My clutch drag was caused by the notched basket, filed away the notches and it was fine.

only skimmed through.

If you drop it the oil goes all over the plates and you get clutch drag, same as overfilling, should return to normal after a while.

The oil is already all over the clutch plates, its a wet clutch.

That might not be worn out plates. If you have the push rod worm adjusted too far in you'll get the same result. Try backing off the push rod adjustment and taking it up with the cable adjustment.

C

Originally Posted by Berlin

The oil is already all over the clutch plates, its a wet clutch.

That might not be worn out plates. If you have the push rod worm adjusted too far in you'll get the same result. Try backing off the push rod adjustment and taking it up with the cable adjustment.

C

Thanks but i have made sure to leave a bit of play before the actuator contacts the push rod to ensure the clutch is pulled back into contact.