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#11 |
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Mega Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Dunfermline
Posts: 1,712
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Cutting a slot in it wont be easy, am i right in thinking that the bolt is recessed?
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: West London
Posts: 188
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plus one for the torx tip - I have done that myself on the same bolt holding the grey infill panel and it worked a treat. I use copper ease always and the bolt was still too tight, hence the rounding. Good tip.
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SFV650 in black with Evotech tailtidy, R&G Aeros and Heated Grips, Puig fly screen, Pipe Werx GP style race exhaust. Whoop! Previously.... Black SVS - DHM's Heated Grips Airblade Iridium Double Bubble Screen Beowulf end can and Evotech tailtidy. 3/7/2004 - 26/6/2015. |
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#13 |
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Posts: n/a
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I had to run a tap through that thread on my son's bike when I removed the panel. the bolt was very tight when removing it, copperslip/PBC is a must when replacing bolts. Good luck removing your bolt.
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#14 |
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Cheers for all the advice guys, yeah without going and taking a look I think cutting a slot in the inpanel alllen bolt would be very difficult! At the moment, that one is still working, but I think I might have a look into the torx thing as I'm sure it's gonna round off soon, you can feel it slipping 1/2 the time. The exhaust one, not too important at the moment, cos it's loud enough for me with the baffle, but it'd be nice to know what it's like without! I like the idea of tightening a bit first to break the seal, will defo give that a go in future!
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