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#11 | |
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#12 |
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It's the don't baby it bit that's important, if you ride it like it's got no water in it or something then it is likely to use oil and low compression.
Riding to work you should be able to get a decent range of rpms pulling out of junctions etc. Though a decent day out should have it well broken in. Most of the important stuff happens in first few heat cycles, IMO.
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#13 | ||
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or if you buy a new F3 it doesn't need run-in
http://www.ultimatemotorcycling.com/...cilities-video http://youtu.be/cTCVRxCeFHk
But the sid squid method works, that how I ran the 125 in
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi Last edited by andrewsmith; 26-07-12 at 01:48 PM. |
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#14 |
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NIce vid!
So none of this keep it below 5000rpm bullocks |
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#15 |
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What are you buying?
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#16 |
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I read something on a scooter forum a while back (which I can't find now) that said piston linings had a sacrificial machined pattern on them that was designed to offer some abrasion to the piston rings and get a better fit. If you don't ride it reasonably hard in the first few miles (like on the way out of the showroom) then the pattern wore off before you got anything working hard enough to take advantage of the pattern.
They then produced various engines that had been run in hard v those run in gently and showed far better condition on the hard engines. However :- 1) This was a scooter forum 2) The bloke may have been doing a roaring trade in new engines from yoofs who wheelied out of the local Chinese scooter showroom.
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#17 | |
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~ I don't pretend to fully get it, that's just what i took from reading the article. Sid and Chris seem to agree, riding it like a fanny will cause it more harm than making it work through the gears and rev range. Therefore if I do get a new bike this is the advice I'll be following. |
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#18 |
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I'd that for about 100 miles on a YBR125, then started commuting on it up to flat out speeds
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi |
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#19 |
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I managed to do the magical 1000 miles on the GSR in 9 days, im not really convinced that it needed the full 1000 miles to break in fully as it seemed to loosen up just before the 600 mile service.
I just stayed on the twisties and b-roads for the first 600 miles and give it a bit of stick whilst keeping the revs below 6000ish. Between 600-1000 i pushed it a bit harder not really watching the revs but making sure I wasn't riding like I stole it / bouncing it off the limiter etc. I think the business of running in is over complex with all these theories, the amount of time I would of spent researching the best method on the internet would of taken longer than racking up the 1000miles following Suzuki's advice. Just take it out for a spin on some nice twisites and have some fun ![]() |
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#20 |
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My personal opinion.. although it's different on bikes.
It doesn't matter that much. I've looked at the liners of very old cars and cars that have done good mileage and you can still see the honing patterns really well. On a bike I imagine it is similar but a lot of the liners have a hard wearing coating. The issue with running in is to make sure everything is seated and running well as well as bedding in. Obviously ragging it from a freshly built state isn't going to help either. Nore is allowing it to labour. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 |
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