Clutch slip?

[Bibio]

there is a guide on here somewhere.

slacken off clutch leaver adjuster all the way in.

take sprocket cover off.

get a 10mm spanner and a flat screwdriver then put screwdriver on slot on middle of screw then slacken off 10mm nut. turn nut a good 2 turns out the way then turn screw inwards till you feel it come to rest then back out 1/8th of a turn.

holding the screw in place with screwdriver tighten nut back up.

tighten clutch leaver adjuster till there is about 2-3mm 'free play' gap in leaver between perch and leaver.

check that clutch works.

put sprocket cover back on.

go for ride and adjust clutch leaver to your own preference.

if that doesnt work.. do i assume the worm drive is cream crakered?

[Bibio]

doubt it. they are only burgred when they loose their balls or seized.

i do things slightly different to above in that i take the leaver adjuster all the way out then back off the worm screw till it's just firmly touching then back the leaver adjuster in. till i get required bite in clutch. but that's me.

[aesmith]

Originally Posted by DanSp

if that doesnt work.. do i assume the worm drive is cream crakered?

Knackered worm drive is more likely to mean you can't release the clutch.

[jambo]

A knackered lifter / worm drive, means that less of the pull at the lever is converted to push on the clutch release rod. This significantly narrows the range of adjustment available in which the clutch will both engage, and disengage fully when you use the lever, across a full range of temperatures.

The lifter, unfortunately is in a position where it tends not to receive a lot of maintenance, and is made of an alloy that does tend to get worn by the bearings in it, especially if it gets dry and gritty.

If you cannot adjust the clutch to a point where it is engaged / disengaged fully then the lifter is not the only possibility but it is a likely culprit. Go through the adjustment carefully, and make sure you're adjusting the lifter with slack in the cable, with the lifter arm at 90 degrees (pointing directly right), and that you're definitely backing off the screw a little before tightening up the lock nut. If the screw is touching the clutch push rod when cold, once everything warms up it can start fractionally disengaging the clutch, leading to slippage. Adjust first, it's free

Jambo

Edit: There's a picture version of the standard "Sid Squid" post here

Clutch adjusted properly and still slipping! Which part of the worm drive needs replacing or does it come as a complete part? (Suzuki part number would be handy if anyone knows it??)



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Originally Posted by DanSp

(Suzuki part number would be handy if anyone knows it??)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may be of some help?link

Can anyone confirm if its just part 17 i would require?

[yorkie_chris]

I don't think that's your problem myself unless you've had to tighten the screw that hard into it to make it release when needed that it's opening the pack.

[Sid Squid]

Knackered lifter won't cause clutch slip - unless you really screw up the adjustment. But you don't need a knackered lifter to get the adjustment wrong of course.

The lifter does exactly that, lifts the clutch - if it's goosed it won't separate the clutch parts correctly leading to clutch drag, not slip.