Who's next for the ignition advancer tool?

I'm an electrician/gas engineer so I've got loads of work related stuff. But bike specific tools I haven't got much.
I did buy a set of allen sockets and a new torque wrench just for bike work. I need some C spanners and a few other bits to be able to do everything I want done.

Originally Posted by northwind

Andrew, the ignition advancer's wicked... Don't know how it works exactly, but it's a wee tiny bit of metal the size of a toenail clipping that you stick into the end of something, possibly the crankshaft, and- well, there's dyno charts on the JHS site for it. The part costs £20, but you need a new alternator cover gasket for it, and a special rotor puller tool that cost me £25 IIRC but which is verrrry sloooowly doing the rounds on a permanent lendout...

Basically, a power boost, plus the torque comes on much much earlier in the range. JHS shows a 3hp boost all acrss the rev band, which doesn't totally match my own experience, but then my dyno run in question was made with terrible jetting and so doesn't count. I didn't see anythingon the top end, but the midrange boost is excellent, great for town riding.

May wear the engine faster and increases the likelihood of detonation/preignition/etc, apparently, but I've had absolutely no downsides.

Would you say its a easy job? Even for a simpleton like myself?

Check here mate http://homepage.mac.com/reddog99/SV6...all/index.html

[northwind]

It's not difficult, but it can be fiddly and tricky in places... One thing I'd say, those directions recommend using a bit of wood to stop the wheel turning- I found that didn't work, eventually I had to hold the rotor with a massive adjustable wrench instead- the tool kept turning even though the wheel wasn't, possibly due to a slightly slippy clutch. I'd say, if you don't have a great big adjustable before you start, get one, a good one- they're handy anyway and it saved the day for me. Also,a humungous socket wrench or breaker bar. (Clarke's humungous torque wrentch costs a tenner from Machine Mart, does the trick

Also, I had to rub the key down slightly to get it to fit,which is BLOODY AWFUL! A bit of metal the size of a toenail clipping that costs £20 should be precision engineered, you shouldn't have to go at it with wet and dry to make it fit!

And if you do it on the sidestand the rotor and starter gear will fall out and test your agility.

But other than that, yeah, it's straightforward. Allow a bit more time than you expect, I ended up finishing it by gaslight at about midnight, make sure you've got plenty of oil (I did a full oil change at the same time, you lose a lot of oil when you remove the cover anyway so I figured why not)

Ok I've looked at all that and it all seems scary to me...

[northwind]

Look, i did it and I'm a notorious simpleton...

Originally Posted by northwind

It's not difficult, but it can be fiddly and tricky in places... One thing I'd say, those directions recommend using a bit of wood to stop the wheel turning- I found that didn't work, eventually I had to hold the rotor with a massive adjustable wrench instead- the tool kept turning even though the wheel wasn't, possibly due to a slightly slippy clutch. I'd say, if you don't have a great big adjustable before you start, get one, a good one- they're handy anyway and it saved the day for me. Also,a humungous socket wrench or breaker bar. (Clarke's humungous torque wrentch costs a tenner from Machine Mart, does the trick

Also, I had to rub the key down slightly to get it to fit,which is BLOODY AWFUL! A bit of metal the size of a toenail clipping that costs £20 should be precision engineered, you shouldn't have to go at it with wet and dry to make it fit!

And if you do it on the sidestand the rotor and starter gear will fall out and test your agility.

But other than that, yeah, it's straightforward. Allow a bit more time than you expect, I ended up finishing it by gaslight at about midnight, make sure you've got plenty of oil (I did a full oil change at the same time, you lose a lot of oil when you remove the cover anyway so I figured why not)

Our experiences sound remarkably similar.

I did successfully use a length of 4x2 under/over the swinging arm to stop the wheel spinning.

My replacement key was 2 thou oversize also, and took a bit of filing to get it to fit.

For the money though, I would have to say it has been the most cost effective mod I have made, except that now I find I cane the ******** off it everywhere enjoying my new found mid-range, which (shock stun amaze) means I am using loads more fuel.