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#11 |
The Sick Man
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Bugger it, geting it to either FWR or Essential Rubber on Saturday. Both are about £120-130 fitted.
Need to get new front tyre anyway.
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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#12 |
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Just out of curiosity, how come you need to keep the chain on before loosening the front sprocket? Can't you just put the bike in gear to stop the sprocket rotating, or will that damage something?
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#13 |
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![]() ![]() Still turn the engine over? That is done up tight indeed. |
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#14 |
The Sick Man
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From what i have read the torque on the front sprocket nut is about 145Nm. Someone said it is also reverse threaded to output shaft direction so it will not come undone.
AFAIK
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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#15 |
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![]() ![]() Something to check then. Trying to undo a 145Nm nut will be hard enough as it is, let alone in the wrong direction ![]() |
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#16 | |
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#17 | |
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#18 |
No, I don't lend tools.
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The front sprocket nut isn't on a left hand thread, it's a normal right hand one.
It should be tightened to 105lb-ft for a UK and US bikes, only if yours is a parallel import should you use the 145N-m torque setting. Do not under any circumstances use your ratchet handle to loosen or tighten the sprocket nut, you'll be leaning on it and if it lets go the result won't be pretty, and even if you're not pretty to start with it'll be worse afterwards.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#19 | |
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#20 |
No, I don't lend tools.
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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A torque wrench will have a ratchet which is capable of at least the torque capacity of the wrench of course, but to loosen the nut could well require a good bit more welly than the fitting torque would be, so it depends on your specific wrench as to whether it'll be capable or not, but anyway using a torque wrench as a breaker bar is likely to affect the calibration at least and possibly ruin it entirely.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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