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Old 19-07-05, 12:37 PM   #11
TSM
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Bugger it, geting it to either FWR or Essential Rubber on Saturday. Both are about £120-130 fitted.

Need to get new front tyre anyway.
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Old 19-07-05, 12:38 PM   #12
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Just out of curiosity, how come you need to keep the chain on before loosening the front sprocket? Can't you just put the bike in gear to stop the sprocket rotating, or will that damage something?
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Old 19-07-05, 12:51 PM   #13
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Still turn the engine over? That is done up tight indeed.
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Old 19-07-05, 01:03 PM   #14
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From what i have read the torque on the front sprocket nut is about 145Nm. Someone said it is also reverse threaded to output shaft direction so it will not come undone.

AFAIK
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Old 19-07-05, 01:11 PM   #15
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Something to check then. Trying to undo a 145Nm nut will be hard enough as it is, let alone in the wrong direction
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Old 19-07-05, 02:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flamin_Squirrel
Just out of curiosity, how come you need to keep the chain on before loosening the front sprocket? Can't you just put the bike in gear to stop the sprocket rotating, or will that damage something?
BEFORE you remove the chain, put the bike into first and get someone to stand on the rear brake pedal as you apply copious torque to the retaining nut. Also, if you haven't got a long breaker bar, belting the socket handle with a good rubber mallet can help. Or as someone else has suggested, stuff a chunk of hard wood into the lower run just in front of the rear sprocket.
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Old 19-07-05, 02:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSM
From what i have read the torque on the front sprocket nut is about 145Nm. Someone said it is also reverse threaded to output shaft direction so it will not come undone.

AFAIK
I'd be surprised if the nut was left-hand thread! LH thread would only be used where the shaft turning with the nut stationary would undo it. Which I don't think is the case on the SV.
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Old 19-07-05, 02:37 PM   #18
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The front sprocket nut isn't on a left hand thread, it's a normal right hand one.

It should be tightened to 105lb-ft for a UK and US bikes, only if yours is a parallel import should you use the 145N-m torque setting.

Do not under any circumstances use your ratchet handle to loosen or tighten the sprocket nut, you'll be leaning on it and if it lets go the result won't be pretty, and even if you're not pretty to start with it'll be worse afterwards.
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Old 19-07-05, 02:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid Squid
...Do not under any circumstances use your ratchet handle to loosen or tighten the sprocket nut, you'll be leaning on it and if it lets go the result won't be pretty, and even if you're not pretty to start with it'll be worse afterwards.
Does that include a torque wrench? I don't have a breaker bar.
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Old 19-07-05, 02:53 PM   #20
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A torque wrench will have a ratchet which is capable of at least the torque capacity of the wrench of course, but to loosen the nut could well require a good bit more welly than the fitting torque would be, so it depends on your specific wrench as to whether it'll be capable or not, but anyway using a torque wrench as a breaker bar is likely to affect the calibration at least and possibly ruin it entirely.
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