Want to Know About Engine Oil? - Check This Out

so if H G dont do a filter for the k3 what do you do at service time? not bother changing it or buy one from somewhere else?

Originally Posted by kwak zzr

so if H G dont do a filter for the k3 what do you do at service time? not bother changing it or buy one from somewhere else?

I bought K&N oil filter & air filter too, the K&N air filter lasts forever The HG stuff was flogged on

Originally Posted by Cloggsy

I bought K&N oil filter & air filter too, the K&N air filter lasts forever The HG stuff was flogged on

clogs old chap, just how much of a difference does it make using a K&N air filter performance wise to the standard one

Originally Posted by madmal

clogs old chap, just how much of a difference does it make using a K&N air filter performance wise

Not that much without re-mapping TBH... I only bought the damn thing to save money on buying replacements (& it would've worked too if I hadn't sold the bike )

i just do very basic maintenance im afraid and have never delved into performance criteria but have been reading some threads with interest. mine is pretty bog standard at the mo. just a ccc fitted.

earlier thread remember someone saying there machine was setup like mine and running lean, stuttering etc but never had any probs so far that i can honestly tell. smooth n fast did a service recently and fitted new plugs. old ones were pretty decent condition, not greasy or wet.

just out of interest, local car and body shop sell a high performance oil additive as used in race engines of all sorts. it leaves internal parts lubricated, has anyone used anything like this. stops knocking, excessive wear etc

cloggsy! would my k3 run ok with a K&N filter on and my scorpion can without a remap?

[embee]

Originally Posted by madmal

....just out of interest, local car and body shop sell a high performance oil additive as used in race engines of all sorts. it leaves internal parts lubricated, has anyone used anything like this. stops knocking, excessive wear etc

Just buy decent branded oil, it'll have all the additives it needs in the right amounts.

These aftermarket additives will always be advertised as being the best thing since sliced bread, used by all the race teams (yeah, right), what else would you expect?

Contrary to popular belief, most major oil companies actually know what they are doing.

Hi

I notice from another post where the poor sod has to fork out a lot of money to repair their gearbox that the gear teeth are straight cut. This means that the pressure of the drive from meshing gears is spread over the entire width of the tooth. This means the oil has less work to do to keep the teeth seperated compared to a conventional manual car gearbox, where the gears are helical cut. Helical cut gears are quieter, but the drawback is that the contact point is much smaller. This means the oil must withstand extreme pressure. This is what the EP stands for in EP80 or EP90 for car gearbox oil. My guess is that this is why bikes can use engine oil for the gearbox as well as the engine.

Do bike gearboxes have syncro-hubs like car gearboxes? If they do, the oil used is also an important consideration. The cones in the syncro hubs must be able to shear through the oil to syncronise the speed of the hub of the gear you wish to change to. If the oil has too high a shear rating it will make it more difficult to change gear.

Kind regards
Tim

Bike gearboxes are the constant mesh type.


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Originally Posted by jonboy

Bike gearboxes are the constant mesh type.


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So are car gearboxes. It is a hub that moves to engage with the gear and lock it to the main shaft. I guess that if bikes are also constant mesh they must have some form of syncro hub as well.

Kind regards
Tim