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Old 04-02-07, 05:42 PM   #41
Robw#70
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Here you go:-
http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.ph...ghlight=matris

http://www.pdq1.co.uk/matris_fork.htm

To fit a curvy you'll need K3 fork tubes in carby lowers or just K3> forks
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Old 04-02-07, 06:43 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robw#70
Here you go:-
http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.ph...ghlight=matris

http://www.pdq1.co.uk/matris_fork.htm

To fit a curvy you'll need K3 fork tubes in carby lowers or just K3> forks
It was your/that post where I got the initial info

I am not going to feck about like that ... your a advocate of the racetech setup yaseln aren't you?? How much better would you say the cartridge setup is? Is it worth it?
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Old 05-02-07, 01:04 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckypants
Thanks blue. Reckon it's springs and emulators then!.... and no doubt Northy will be along soon to suggest that I can do a GSXR front end for the same money...
<waves>

Yeah, as it happens, that's exactly what I reckon... Not to put emulators down at all, very good solution and it's thoroughly tried and tested. Feller from the bike show reckons Matris will be making a carbed set very soon, by the way, but how much faith you want to put in a reseller I don't know.

I agree with what Blue was saying, however... For road use, what puts most people off on the damper forks is that they're not set up right for them. The technology's as basic as a ball-point pen in a bath, but it does work reasonably well. If you're out of the weight range for your stock front, you'll feel a chunky benefit from springs and oil alone. Nothing like as good as adding emulators, or AK-20s, but the question is do you want/need more? I would have been perfectly happy with just springs and oil for a long time, I think, but I found myself unable to ride and looking for something to divert my attention to so I did the fork swap. Don't regret it, wouldn't go back, but I wouldn't have considered it essential back them.

The joy of springs and oil is that if it's not good enough for you, you only lose a couple of hours labour and the cost of an oil change and you can add emulators later.

People sometimes isunderstand this when I say it. I'm not saying that you're not good enough to need better- I'm hardly the next Rossi myself but I get a lot of benefit from the front end swap and I got a good benefit from the springs and oil. And I'm not saying that springs and oil is a great upgrade, in fact it's not an upgrade at all, it's just making it how it should be- no different from twiddling the knobs on an adjustable fork set.
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Old 05-02-07, 02:17 PM   #44
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Must..... resist....... temptations.......of.... shiny.......new.......bits.......

TBH I find the current stock forks just soggy, so springs / oil to firm them up seems like a plan. The emulators can be added later, so I might leave thos for now.

however the Matris things look sooooo shiny.......
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Old 05-02-07, 03:15 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckypants
Must..... resist....... temptations.......of.... shiny.......new.......bits.......

TBH I find the current stock forks just soggy, so springs / oil to firm them up seems like a plan. The emulators can be added later, so I might leave thos for now.

however the Matris things look sooooo shiny.......
Hehe, to be fair I don't think the stock springs are overly light ... according to Racetech for street use and a 13st pudding they recommend 78 springs (if they did them) So rounded up is the 80s ... I actually think the 80s are too stiff for my liking ...

It does sound like a plan to just get the springs and see if that does it for you though

I actually want to make my bikes identical so will get springs and emulators, but having got 80 springs fitted, I'd consider using just emulators and stock springs as like I said, I think 80s are too stiff (for my liking) ...
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Old 06-02-07, 08:03 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robw#70
Here you go:-
http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.ph...ghlight=matris

http://www.pdq1.co.uk/matris_fork.htm

To fit a curvy you'll need K3 fork tubes in carby lowers or just K3> forks
It was your/that post where I got the initial info

I am not going to feck about like that ... your a advocate of the racetech setup yaseln aren't you?? How much better would you say the cartridge setup is? Is it worth it?
The cartridge is a better setup as it has a proper shimstack that is progressive so it can regulate the flow of all at all speeds (of fork movement) using a light weight oil which reduces the temperatures generated by the damping forces keeping the damping consistant especially when worked hard (on track).
Std damper rods really hammer the oil as it relies on a high viscosity oil being forced through some fairly large holes, thus generating heat, breaking the oil down and reducing the damping.
This is why the Emulator setup is knocky at lower speeds, when set for faster use.
As for if it is worth it........Prob not, for mainly road use a good quality progressive spring (ie Hyperpro) gives the best of both worlds, with the progressive nature of the spring makes up for the poor damping qualities of the forks.
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Old 06-02-07, 09:27 PM   #47
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I have never understood the value of progressive springs, since to my mind all the 'soft' bit is taken up by preload to get correct sag - especially as I'm over 14st and like to carry a pillion. But I suppose that you can get different 'strength' progressives the same as linear. Doh! Wish I'd never started this now, there are so many variables!

So which is best for road (quickish) riding progressive or linear springs? Would you fit the emulators with progressive springs? Do the Matris cartridge inserts fit a curvy? Should I just forget it and get a different bike? My head is starting to hurt!
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Old 07-02-07, 07:56 PM   #48
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The harder progressive spring is squashed the higher it's rate becomes, so on light loadings it gives a comfortable ride for day to day use and when it is worked harder (braking in to bends on track) the forces are increased so the spring becomes effectively harder.

Progressive spring rates are usually qouted by two, Start rate (the soft part of the spring) and end rate (max strength of the spring over its given length), some manufacturers use three figures with a 'working' rate being the most common part of the spring in normal use.

In principle they are the ideal solution for suspension, but unfortunately when adjustable valving is involved it is impossible to valve for a spring who's rate is constantly changing without complicated multi speed valving, Hi and lo speed is starting to be used more often in forks, but with linear springs as there isn't the scope in the valving to be truly progressive.

The Matris cartridges will not fit in carby forks as the fork cap thread is a difference size and the wall thickness of the tubes is different
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Old 09-02-07, 03:16 PM   #49
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Well I stopped dreaming about exotic stuff and ordered Racetech .80 springs and emulators from PDQ.

Now I want pre-load fork caps for my 2001 curvey as well. I went into local dealer (A&D Denbigh) and asked how much... they did not come up on his fiche and adjusters from a K2 'are only availble as the various parts' over £80 each!!! From reading on here I see that you can get the pre-load caps from a K2 curvey for about £45 each? Does anyone know a dealer that might know what they are talking about where I can get these from? Can anyone tell me the part number for them?

Thanks
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Old 09-02-07, 03:31 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Luckypants
...
Cool, how much did it come to inc p&p in the end??

Why do you want preload adjusters??? I know you said you do a lot of 2-up, is that way? I can't imagine you fiddling every time you change from 1up to 2 up though?? ...

Unless you intend to fiddle, if it were me I'd save a few bob, set the sag up so it is half way between 1up and 2up, cut the spacers accordingly and leave it there!
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