Removing ignition barrel (not on an SV)

But on a Kawasaki KMX. Could anyone give me an idea on how i'd go about removing the ignition barrel?

Got as far as taking the bike to bits, removed the seat lock which is pretty pointless because it uses a different key and once I got to the ignition its attached with sheered bolts so I can't do anything with it. I work long hours so locksmith isn't available and obviously can't take it to Kawasaki because I can't start it! At a loss now

it may help to ask on a kwak site? or even more of an enduro type site?

although im surprised no-one has replyed

Think it's probably because it's a bit of a dodgy question to ask. I've almost done it now but have hit a brick wall and won't be able to finish without help from either a locksmith or kawasaki but can't reach either. Can hardly wheel the bike 7 miles and don't have a van! I want to try and get a key impressioned but wanted to take the locks to the locksmith to save a bit of cash but can't get the one out! Kawasaki have been really unhelpful too as they have no key cutting facilities and say they can't help me if I take in my logbook etc. and attempt to get one from the VIN

my mate used a screwdriver rammed in the ignition instead of a key as his ex chucked the keys down the drain, he got a replacement barel for about £30 from busters, and he fitted it in about 1 hour, so cant be that hard, it was on a 97 cbr though

You'd hope it'd be harder on a CBR! It's just the sheered bolts, there's nothing to unscrew the ignition from it's place, only thing to do would be to drill it out which I can't do at the moment without completely dismantling the front end

You don't need to dismantle the complete front end.

Firstly stick an old padded jacket over the tank to stop it getting marked. Remove the 4 bolts holdng the handlebars to the yokes and place the bars on top of the tank gently. The cables will stop them sliding too far either way.

Next, undo the bolts on either side of the top yoke where they clamp the forks - no need to take these bolts right out yet. Then undo and remove the large nut that sits on top of the yoke in the middle and take the washer out as well.

Once that nut/washer is off the top yoke should just lift off once you've unplugged the connector on the ignition switch wires. If it is reluctant to come off, give it a light tap from underneath on both sides with a soft faced mallet or hammer handle.

The bike will stay upright as the lower fork clamps will hold it up for as long as it take to get the lock out. Once that's out you can plonk the yoke and bars back on loose until you get the lock back from the keymakers.

I'd be searching out some left handed drill bits and a good quality centre punch to remove the shearhead bolts. Drill as central as possible starting with a small size bit and working up one size at a time, and by the time you've reached the diameter of the bolt it'll most likely spin what's left of it out.

Right but i'd have to do that in reverse order right? I have to remove these sheered bolts before I can take it out any way I try. Thanks for the tip about Busters, I ordered a new ignition with keys for £27 last night! will be cheaper and less hassle than a trip to the locksmith, now just got to get the bloody thing out!

Is the steerring lock jammed on? If not you don't have to strip the whole front off to remove the top yoke with the ignition switch attached.

No steering lock not jammed on, but don't I have to remove the sheered bolts securing it to the frame first anyway? it's these bolts that are very inaccessible so I had to take the front apart.