motosliders lowside test...

Originally Posted by AndyBrad

yea that was my thinking. But the reason im making these is hopefully to stop my leg getting crushed if it topples. Although i was concerned about transmitting the force to the frame. I looked at bracing it against the upper engine bolt but if the bung is located in the bore of the frame this wouldnt serve any purpose.

Dont happen to have the yield stress of delrin do you?

from google:
Tensile Strength @ Yield, 73°F 9,000psi
http://www.plasticsintl.com/datasheets/Delrin_150.pdf

I don't know if it matters much if the sliders can spin. One of the motosliders on my bike can turn a bit, the other is fixed. The motoslider's bolt is some sort of heat treated then zinc electroplated steel (it says it's a custom grade 8.8 bolt on their website). I don't know if that's overkill or not or how a stainless bolt would compare.

I don't think you really need to worry about the bike crushing your leg. In my experience, you and the bike tend to part company fairly quickly (based on my 5 lowsides and 1 riding into a ditch...). Plus the sv isn't that heavy a bike.

Originally Posted by erik

One of the motosliders on my bike can turn a bit, the other is fixed.

Motosliders shouldn't spin by hand, try re-torquing up the nuts, they will spin if you crash test them though.

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

Motosliders shouldn't spin by hand, try re-torquing up the nuts, they will spin if you crash test them though.

I've tried that. It's the opposite one from the one I crashed on, it doesn't spin freely, but it can rotate if you grab it and twist it. I don't think it's a problem.

If it is correctly torqued up (65ft/Ib) it shouldn't be a problem.

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

For a fully faired Pointy you will need a hole-saw to drill a hole through the fairing, and for a fully faired Curvy you will need a sanding flap wheel to make a large notch...

That bike is gawjusss

Originally Posted by Dave20046

That bike is gawjusss

It belongs to Donkeyman on the SVrider forum.

cheers guys 8.8 grade is just a little better than 316 stainless but there is a significant cost saving even if you factor in plating it. However i think it would be a lot nicer having stainless and its readily availble for me (can get it from scrap basically, could even make it from 17-4 or duplex (uns31083 i think)if i fancy ) only thing to note is that general a2 (304 stainless) would be useless in this aplication.

I would have thourght that you would have been able to turn the bungs with a little effort. You need to have the force through the bolt and the delrin would deform under that load. So you would have the spacer machined slightly longer 0.001" so that you got the correct torque on the bolt.

Don't forget that the main bolt is also the main engine mounting bolt.

Motosliders should not turn by hand, and definitely not easily by hand.

[Dave20046]

Stainless is a lot weaker than mild steel, I wouldn't have thought that bolt snapping would be a good thing

Originally Posted by Dave20046

Stainless is a lot weaker than mild steel, I wouldn't have thought that bolt snapping would be a good thing

yea but 316 is not that much weaker. Might use 17-4 Will calc it out next week properly.

They may spin on the bush but the bush wont spin as this will be torqued up. Tolerance issue?