Cam-swap/engine won't start

[yorkie_chris]

I find rear one loads easier to get to than front! Just take right rearset off and is easy.

Before you even think about marks just look at cams. Find roughly TDC on back with a rod down the plughole and look at cams, rotate engine and go through in your head the 4 stroke cycle. I reckon you've put something in wrong and it's got 2 exhaust strokes instead of 1 intake 1 exhaust.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I find rear one loads easier to get to than front! Just take right rearset off and is easy.

Before you even think about marks just look at cams. Find roughly TDC on back with a rod down the plughole and look at cams, rotate engine and go through in your head the 4 stroke cycle. I reckon you've put something in wrong and it's got 2 exhaust strokes instead of 1 intake 1 exhaust.

Thinking about it, I'm reckoning the same. I clearly just got (un)lucky when putting the cams in that I managed this amazing feat of engineering.

As mentioned earlier, I've got the timing cover off now (with the help of an old honda CG exhaust), so I can check the timing properly. 17mm socket+timing cover = piece of cake. I did take the RHS rearset off...getting at the CCT itself wasn't too bad, it was the winding it out without it flicking back in that made me swear lots

The only hassle I had doing the cam swap was getting the coil connections crossed so that the front signal went to the rear coil and visa versa, result hellish missfires, easy fix though. I reckon when you dropped the chain it all went out of whack, thw whole process was fairly easy, apart from taking out the cam chain tensioner, if you are using the web info where the pic came from read all the comments right to the end.Theres an important part missing in the first bit, after setting one cylinder you need to rotate the crank a full 360 degrees before doing the next one. Other wise you get big bang timing which is amusing but not productive.
Cheers
Pod

Originally Posted by pod

Theres an important part missing in the first bit, after setting one cylinder you need to rotate the crank a full 360 degrees before doing the next one. Other wise you get big bang timing which is amusing but not productive.
Cheers
Pod

As much fun as it sounds to run the engine like this, I'm trying to avoid it I was aware of this, however - I've got a Haynes manual that I was using to check on the cam-timing marks, and it makes sure to mention rotating the engine to make it all line up. I just wish I'd used a pen that didn't rub off so easily when marking the cams/camchains, as this whole thing could've been avoided :P

[jambo]

Personally I've found pens / tipex to be of help when doing the ZX6R as the cams don't sit quite flat until you've clamped them down, so it can be a little tricky lining them up. On the SV this isn't a method I'd rely on for 2 reasons:
1) It isn't needed as at the position you're lining the cams up, the lobes are facing away from the buckets and adjustments can easily be made by hand because there's no load on them.
2) There is no sight of the chain touching the crank. Because of this your marks at the top can all line up while the chain has moved a tooth at the bottom, leading to a wrecked motor.

Just do it the way it's laid out in the manual, it works much better than using pens & tipex for this configuration of engine.
HTH

Jambo

The pen isn't to line the cams up as such, it's so I knew which tooth went to which pin on the intake side (which I wasn't changing), in case the cam-chain slipped. Unfortunately it rubbed off.

Quick update: Problem found. My intake cam is on exhaust timing and the exhaust cam is on intake timing. Guess who was tired when doing this yesterday and forgot which was front and which was back?

lol so now the problems solved would you mind telling my what this does ?

For a pointy? Not much, unless you just want to do what I'm doing moving curvey intakes into the exhaust. Normally the full swap is putting K3+ intake cams into the intake side of a curvey engine, and moving the intake cams to the exhaust side. Gains somewhere between 3-9bhp (depending on who you believe etc.). Putting curvey intakes into the exhaust side while still keeping the curvey intakes? Nobody's quite sure, but given the difference in lift between the stock exhaust cams and the intake cams being used as exhaust cams, it should be noticeable.

well i have a pointy but i think i get the drift, so how come you did it if there is not much efect ?

Dude...I'd sell my grandmother for an extra 1.5bhp.