Woodruff Key.

so why call it a woodruff key?

[skeetly]

I think its the name of the bloke who 'invented' it
Strange to think what NEEDS inventing sometimes..............

Invented around 1888.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodruff_key

Remind me what it does/reason again? I think I have a idea but I'm not 100%

The offset woodruff that you got in there will be weaker than a 'normal' one. Sure the taper should prevent the thing from rotating, but if it has managed to work slightly free (not that difficult given the power pulses), then the offset key would sheer much easier.

I am not sure what your symptoms are/were, but I'd say a sheered woodruf key is possible.

What I will ad to that though, is that when I have had woodruff keys sheer before, there is then obviously very little to stop the thing from rotating if it is not up hard on the taper ... in short, its not like it'd move a coupla degrees and then never move again

Originally Posted by Grinch

Remind me what it does/reason again? I think I have a idea but I'm not 100%

Remember the ignition timing 'pickup' is in the generator rotor. Therefore the rotor needs to be aligned correctly with the crank to all ow accurate ignition timing. The woodruff is used to ensure the flywheel/rotor can only be put on correctly, you don't even have to think about checking the timing

It also helps resist rotation.

Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S

The offset woodruff that you got in there will be weaker than a 'normal' one. Sure the taper should prevent the thing from rotating, but if it has managed to work slightly free (not that difficult given the power pulses), then the offset key would sheer much easier.

I am not sure what your symptoms are/were, but I'd say a sheered woodruf key is possible.

What I will ad to that though, is that when I have had woodruff keys sheer before, there is then obviously very little to stop the thing from rotating if it is not up hard on the taper ... in short, its not like it'd move a coupla degrees and then never move again

Just when I had ticked this off my list.

Blue, the bike is running rich on both cylinders. New filter and chokes working correctly. I had the little cover off of the gennie cover and using a socket turned the engine over, so the bolt is not loose. if I had the old key I'd put it back in but I've put it somewhere for "safe keeping" and in time honoured fashion can't remember where.

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

Just when I had ticked this off my list.

Blue, the bike is running rich on both cylinders. New filter and chokes working correctly. I had the little cover off of the gennie cover and using a socket turned the engine over, so the bolt is not loose. if I had the old key I'd put it back in but I've put it somewhere for "safe keeping" and in time honoured fashion can't remember where.

Have you got a timing light?? ... would be pretty easy an non intrusive to check the timing and ascertain if the flywheel is still in the correct (all be it offset ) place!


But if it is running rich, I can't see this would have much to do with the timing??

Have you checked the operation of the fuel pump thingy?? it might be over pressuring it or summin (to be honest I haven't really fiddled with the pump, but it is vacuum/pulse powered or summin isn't it? - its not electric) ... if it is over pressuring or there is some sort of return valve that is blocked, it'd be forcing the floats down and over filling the float bowls (therefore it'd run rich) ...

I'd need to look into how it actually works before categorically saying this might be at fault (not gonna look tonight either ) .. but just a though of something elose you could look at/into

Timing slips, plugs not firing at the optimum moment, fuel not getting burnt, was my laymans way of thinking.

Cheers anyway Blue.

[yorkie_chris]

The fuel pump is indeed vacuum operated, but it's really simple and there isn't really much way for it to go wrong. There is no return line back to the tank.

Float height could be worth checking though.