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#11 |
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I found the bike revs quicker with the baffle out.... sounds mucho better as well
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#12 |
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engine does rev more freely with the baffle out cuz i put it back in the other day and could'nt stand how strangled it felt.
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#13 | |
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#14 |
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We're talking slipons here, right? If so, yes, buy the one you like the look and sound and price of. And that's it. Anyone who argues otherwise, I shall mock
![]() I like numbers ![]() And as far as speed, it's still massively less of an influence than the rider- I reckon almost any normal road rider would gain more overall speed, or cut more off a lap time, with a couple of hours' training than with an extra 10bhp. But that's all irrelevant, since you won't get 5bhp from a slipon.
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#15 |
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Cheers for the info, guys.
So, basically: The only real difference is the noise level & a muppet could do it once he'd gotten over his fear of, "OMG I'll hacking into my bike"! Looks like I'll be casting my eye over SV I see at trafic lights now & asking the rider to rev the throttle a bit. I was hoping to make a mod to my bike that wasn't "cosmetic". All my bike's had done to it so far is the equalivent to furry dice & Go Faster stripes! Still....power tools.....! Grrrreat! p.s. Viney - cheers for the offer. I want to tackle this myself but don't leave the country - you may get a pm along the lines of, "I've just hacked off the swing arm by mistake, can you help?"! ;o) |
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#16 | |
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#17 |
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My insurers didnt worry about the end can declared. They only care if its a full system which is where you would probably get a bhp difference thats slightly noticeable and enough to warrant changing your insurance details. But check with your insurers they are ok with this, some policies are strictly no mods, others are more flexible.
Changing the end can didnt make that noticeable difference to me its as jonboy says, it does sound so so so much better though. ![]() |
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#18 | |
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#19 |
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Stolen from Simon Munnery
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#20 |
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Dude,
I did mine today and it was a piece of ****. If you do do it yourself then 1. Do NOT use a grinder unless you know what you are doing. ie mask off the tyres, swing arm etc. Sparks from a grinder can seriously mark your paintwork/seat/tyres. 2. DO make sure the exhaust pipe above the weld is COOL to the touch. Don't want to lose any skin. 3. WHEN it's cool - place a cable tie round the area you want to cut - this way you use it as a guide and will get a "square" cut and not something squew whiff 4. Use a hacksaw with a NEW blade. It will cut through like butter. 4.a Let the saw do the work - it cuts cleaner and quicker. 5 Once youve sawn it off, use a file to smooth down any burrs. VERY IMPORTANT cause if you dont then it can leave a high spot which can blow from the joint. 6. Get some silicone sealant - or if you know a mechanic then get some exhaust paste. Keep it for later. 7. DRY FIT first. This means fit it all together without screwing anything tight. This way you will be able to see how things fit together. Nothing worse than fitting it together then the paste sets and your can is out of alignment. 8. Once youve done all the above, smear the joins with sealant or paste, screw it all together, clean off excess paste and go and have a cup of tea***. Do NOT fire it up just yet - you need to let the sealant set. ***If you don't like tea then spend 15 minutes polishing the can. 9. crank it up and look for water droplets from the joints. If there's none then you're fine. If there's water blowing from the joints then you need to check its been properly sealed or tightened. 10 - If all is well then go rev the tits off it and annoy the feck out of the neighbours. As for power increase - no idea but what I can say is the sound is horny as phuque. I now have a dent in the tank where my lad rests ![]() |
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