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#11 | |
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This is why I own 2 2-foot torque wrenches and a breaker ![]()
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#12 |
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You are supposed to use two sockets or spanners anyway. One to hold the spindle end and one to undo the nut. Stand behind the bike, put round ended spanner on the spindle end and use a long bar and socket on the actual nut, turn the nut with the long bar till it comes loose then you should be able to take off the spanner on the spindle end and undo the nut with your fingers on the socket.
Hope this helps. |
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#13 | |
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![]() ![]() The rear wheel nut is only 65nm. No need for scaffold poles. Just a spanner on the right, spanner on the left, job done. |
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#14 | |
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#15 | ||
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#16 |
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Yup, mk1 is, that's why I'm asking if pointy's the same
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#17 |
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Pointy's 100NM.
Feels way too tight for me but don't fancy riding with an under-torqued rear axle nut. |
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#18 |
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It is 100nm's then, i set my torque wrench to that and it felt way too tight so i didn't go all the way. Think i best go back and give it a tweek!!
Ohyeh and sorry for confusing people with the text lingo, i'll try hard to speak proper in future ![]()
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#19 |
Trinity
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OK so there's nothing wrong with my nuts or the bike design. It's just a shame that Suzuki get your hopes up in vain, putting the correct sized spanners in the tool kit (but not the right length
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#20 |
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Well, if you were bigger you could probably do it
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