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Old 08-01-07, 12:40 AM   #11
northwind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu
Is the OE tool kit crap or something? I thought you couldn't beat a six sided closed end spanner
It's just too small for easy axle work... On the carbed model it's a 65nm bolt, on the injected one I'm not sure but 100nm is ringing a bell. Not that it's impossible, but I'd probably dislocate my arms or something trying to generate 100nm through the standard tool, even with its extension (which is a fiddle)

This is why I own 2 2-foot torque wrenches and a breaker One to do accurate torque settings, one to use as a big wrench. No effort involved at all with the right tools, not to mention that you're not left guessing how tight it should be. I'd sooner have a good 6-point socket in a ratchet than a 6-point box spanner tbh, easier to use (though bulkier)
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Old 08-01-07, 10:56 AM   #12
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You are supposed to use two sockets or spanners anyway. One to hold the spindle end and one to undo the nut. Stand behind the bike, put round ended spanner on the spindle end and use a long bar and socket on the actual nut, turn the nut with the long bar till it comes loose then you should be able to take off the spanner on the spindle end and undo the nut with your fingers on the socket.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-01-07, 11:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1RichSV650
those chain guides are a mennis, they never line up like u think they shud and urs has well, gone for the 360.. what u need is a bucket of wd40, a torque wrench and a scaffold pole for extra leverage good luck wi gettin it sorted,,sorry wunt much help!!!
and you need spell check!!

The rear wheel nut is only 65nm. No need for scaffold poles. Just a spanner on the right, spanner on the left, job done.
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Old 08-01-07, 11:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viney
The rear wheel nut is only 65nm. No need for scaffold poles. Just a spanner on the right, spanner on the left, job done.
Sure it's the same on the pointy?
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Old 08-01-07, 11:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northwind
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viney
The rear wheel nut is only 65nm. No need for scaffold poles. Just a spanner on the right, spanner on the left, job done.
Sure it's the same on the pointy?
Ah, cant see the photo. Yes Mk1 SV's is 65nM
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Old 08-01-07, 11:16 AM   #16
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Yup, mk1 is, that's why I'm asking if pointy's the same I've a feeling it's way higher, from some old thread where I confused the hell out of someone
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Old 08-01-07, 07:29 PM   #17
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Pointy's 100NM.

Feels way too tight for me but don't fancy riding with an under-torqued rear axle nut.
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Old 08-01-07, 08:22 PM   #18
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It is 100nm's then, i set my torque wrench to that and it felt way too tight so i didn't go all the way. Think i best go back and give it a tweek!!

Ohyeh and sorry for confusing people with the text lingo, i'll try hard to speak proper in future
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Old 10-01-07, 12:24 AM   #19
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OK so there's nothing wrong with my nuts or the bike design. It's just a shame that Suzuki get your hopes up in vain, putting the correct sized spanners in the tool kit (but not the right length ). Might be better if they just put 22 & 24mm sockets in and let you source your own handle.
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Old 10-01-07, 01:11 AM   #20
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Well, if you were bigger you could probably do it
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