Problems aligning rear wheel after adjusting chain tension

Hi SV650.org, my first post will be a lengthy inquiry.

I just bought my K7 used with about 3000 miles on it. The previous owner neglected to take care of it, and I've been doing a slew of maintenance, the latest being chain lubing, tension adjustment, and subsequently, alignment.

Problem is, I've tried for hours to get the rear wheel aligned while keeping tension, and the sprocket teeth refuse to stay centered in the chain. Now, I want to make sure I'm not doing something completely wrong, so here's what I've been doing:

Removed chain cover
Removed cotter pin, loosened axle nut
Twisted left nut until chain tension was in spec
Twisted right nut a similar amount, trying to align the sprocket and chain.

That last step is causing me issues. I'm using the Motion Pro chain alignment tool (http://www.motorcycletoolchest.com/M..._p/08-0048.htm). Thing is, I mount that on the sprocket, and the long bar is virtually parallel to the chain. But, when I put the bike on the rear stand and spin the wheel, I can see the teeth of the sprocket either gravitating to one side, or moving back and forth. I must have tightened and loosened the right-side nut a few centimeters each direction, and nowhere have I found an exact centering.

Also, when I was loosening the nuts, I noticed that the wheel wouldn't adjust, and that the metal plate between the nut and swingarm would come loose. I'd have to push on the wheel to keep that plate tight, and to ensure that the nut adjustment actually did something to the wheel. Is there an easier way of going about this?

Since the Motion Pro tool indicates that my chain and sprocket are generally parallel, should I not worry about the little things? Also, am I assuming correctly that what I'm doing is fine, i.e. mostly relying on the right nut to adjust alignment, while relying on the left nut to adjust chain tension?

The error you are making is adjusting the chain tension using only one adjuster and then using the other adjuster to centre the wheel. You have to adjust both adjusters equal amounts at the same time. EVERY TIME. When adjusting the tension you have to leave a small amount of additional slack in the knowledge that little extra slack is going to be taken up with the tightening of the wheel nut process. Personally I always do the alignment first and the slack adjustment last. Once you have the alignment, then you can do the slack adjustment.

slacken the chain fully so the allen bolts bottom out. then wind them back equal amounts each till the chain tension is correct.

[Viney]

Also, loosen the bolt that attaches the rear Brake caliper to the tourqe arm.

[Bibio]

have you got the bike on a paddock stand or on its side stand?

you must adjust chain when bike is on side stand....

remember to kick the back wheel so as to make sure that the wheel is pushed against stops.

Originally Posted by AndyBrad

slacken the chain fully so the allen bolts bottom out. then wind them back equal amounts each till the chain tension is correct.

Thats what I do too.

To make sure your wheel is in line you don't need fancy tools.
As AndyBrad said take your adjuster bolts right out put them back in so they are only just holding on with the very first bit of thread then count the turns on each side so they are the same.
Also whilst tightening the axle nut/bolt push agains't the rear wheel with your foot so you are sure it's still in line.

Originally Posted by Stig_Of_The_Dump

The error you are making is adjusting the chain tension using only one adjuster and then using the other adjuster to centre the wheel. You have to adjust both adjusters equal amounts at the same time. EVERY TIME. When adjusting the tension you have to leave a small amount of additional slack in the knowledge that little extra slack is going to be taken up with the tightening of the wheel nut process. Personally I always do the alignment first and the slack adjustment last. Once you have the alignment, then you can do the slack adjustment.

Interesting, I read somewhere that my current method worked just fine, I suppose aligning first would take the guess work out of it.

Originally Posted by AndyBrad

slacken the chain fully so the allen bolts bottom out. then wind them back equal amounts each till the chain tension is correct.

This sounds like a great idea. So I should turn each nut left until they basically fall out, and make sure the wheel is pushed up?

Originally Posted by Bibio

have you got the bike on a paddock stand or on its side stand?

remember to kick the back wheel so as to make sure that the wheel is pushed against stops.

you must adjust chain when bike is on side stand....
I've been doing this, I only put the bike on the rearstand when checking alignment.

Originally Posted by vardypeeps

Thats what I do too.

To make sure your wheel is in line you don't need fancy tools.
As AndyBrad said take your adjuster bolts right out put them back in so they are only just holding on with the very first bit of thread then count the turns on each side so they are the same.
Also whilst tightening the axle nut/bolt push agains't the rear wheel with your foot so you are sure it's still in line.

There goes another cotter pin My dealer charges $0.81 for each. Anybody know a place I can buy them in bulk?

That's a bummer.
Not in the US so not sure mate. Someone might know?

[flymo]

Originally Posted by aznxk3vi17

Interesting, I read somewhere that my current method worked just fine, I suppose aligning first would take the guess work out of it.


This sounds like a great idea. So I should turn each nut left until they basically fall out, and make sure the wheel is pushed up?


you must adjust chain when bike is on side stand....
I've been doing this, I only put the bike on the rearstand when checking alignment.


There goes another cotter pin My dealer charges $0.81 for each. Anybody know a place I can buy them in bulk?

Dont understand, which pin are you breaking?

No real need to undo the adjuster bolts/nuts all the way out. Just ensure that the graded adjustment lines are in the same place on either side of the bike with relation to the rear axle plates.

The check for accuracy (although I've never bothered with this) get yourself two straight edges the length of the bike and place either side of the rear wheel touching the rear tyre on the floor with somebody holding the bike upright. (mmm, might be easier to show a picture for this )

Check the alignment at the front wheel and adjust at the rear if necessary.

[ophic]

Originally Posted by flymo

Dont understand, which pin are you breaking?

Is it the US spec bikes that have a cotter pin through the axle nut?