TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide

[kevo115]

Thankyou so much, my bike has been in my suzuki garage now for 4 days because riding in 1st and 2nd gear was bloody terrifying through slow moving traffic. Can this also cause the engine to cut out occasionally? Im heading down to my garage soon to see how they are getting on. They have taken it apart twice now and rebuilt it without finding a problem, but have rode it and the problem is still there? can all this be rectified by making this adjustment and am i looking at a hefty bill to be fixed?
Cheers
Matt


try doing the adjustment! can't do any harm. took me half an hour and it was like riding a different bike. amazing!

[Blacktoffee]

Well thats a week and a half the garage has had my bike for now, turns out a sensor has broken that a suzuki specialist claims hes never seen before so the throttle response wouldnt have helped me but thanx anyway u lot!!
matt

[jtsailjt]

Just done the TPS set up. What a pig to get set right!!!! My K7 has a different TPS to the one on the photo's & i couldnt find the tickover adjuster. Still the same procedure though. MY K7 was changing state at 3400rpm. I cant test it yet as the roads look like a skating rink.

I've been trying to find the correct plug under the seat for my '07 and can't find one with 6 holes having 2 empty. There's one with 4 holes with 2 wires leading to it, one black/white and the other solid orange. Is this the correct plug to get it in dealer mode? I can see my 2 TPS's and many thanks to whoever mentioned that the lower one is the correct one to adjust. But I can't do the adjustment because I can't turn my tach into the dealer mode. Any suggestions about how to find the correct wires to connect or about the plugs under the seat of the '07's?

I'm in the US and just joined this forum because the US SVforum has a link to the procedure and there's no info there about '07's except to say "they're different."

My email is jefftotman@aol.com

I'd really appreciate anyone who can get me pointed in the right direction as far as recognizing which wires to connect.

[Zen Beetle]

The 6 hole dealer mode plug on the K7 is a white plug with a black rubber cap. It is situated between the front seat and the pillion seat. If you get a torch and look down the pillion seat you should be able to see it. Jtsailjt, let me know if you still have problems locating it and I will put a pic up for you.

[jtsailjt]

The 6 hole dealer mode plug on the K7 is a white plug with a black rubber cap. It is situated between the front seat and the pillion seat. If you get a torch and look down the pillion seat you should be able to see it. Jtsailjt, let me know if you still have problems locating it and I will put a pic up for you.
I found the *%$^& thing...finally! Mine is an '07 ABS bike and apparently that makes a difference too as far as the location of the plug. It's apparently the same little white 6 hole plug but it's on the right side of the bike at the junction of the front of the seat and the bottom/back of the fuel tank. It works the same and I just finished adjusting my TPS downward. It was originally set at about 2400 and I was able to lower it to about 1550 and it does seem to help a lot with the jerking at low RPM's. I appreciate the offer of the help/picture though, but apparently the ABS bikes are unique in this respect.

In case there are other ABS bike owners out there who want to do this adjustment but are tearing their hair out looking for that darn plug under the seat, the thread where I found the info was on SVRider.com in a thread entitled.......TPS mod on ABS model, different Dealer connector?!?

As it turns out, the connector is the same, just in a different location.

[sinbad]

Hi guys. Decided to do this today so get in park bike, tank up, dealer mode, line moves at 3.5k rpm, engine off, loosen TPS bolts, start engine........ham fisted slip and engine dies, won't restart so put TPS back to my mark, and still no go. D'oh!

Increase idle speed a little and it starts but it's rough. Where should "the line" be with the ignition on, but engine off? So I try lowering the idle and putting the TPS back exactly where it was before and it won't start. My TPS was already quite a way round to the anti-clockwise extent of the adjustment if that's of any use.

'kin annoying. Anyone had this happen?

Update: Got it running smoothly again after much faffing. The line is moving at 3-4k rpm still though. Pffff it's too hot today. Time to go and lean over a probably a little too hot engine for 20 minutes yayyy.

Update 2: All is well with the world again. Tip - do not let it move more than an absolute fraction at a time, seriously, it's mega sensitive. In the end it's tightened back up and moving at 1800ish rpm. Made it hard for myself.

[Mgaffz]

Just done mine today was an absolute doddle, my FI was coming on song at 4.5k rpm! moved my TPS about 2mm anti clockwise to get it down to 1.5k and then had to lower the idle a fraction and that was it sorted.

I cant believe the difference best thing i have to done to the bike in the 10month i've had her no more snatchy power mid corner its really confidence inspiring

many thanks for the step by step guide :D

mick

[gavinsky23]

Just a quick question, does anyone know if this is the same with the SV1000. I presume some of the components may be in different places but are the figures the same and would it be worth doing?

[Brettus]

Just a quick note. Did the mod on mine tonight, worked like a charm, excellent guide!
Haven't tried it out yet other than to ride the bike down the drive so will try that tomorrow on the way to work and report back.

Thanks to Coombest for the well laid out, excellently illustrated and accurately described guide. Even a "not very mechanically minded" person like myself managed it without drama :)

[BillyC]

Haha! Brilliant, is this still about? Tis my bike in most of the photos... doesn't look like that now! It was all shiny and new!

[Brettus]

Mine was kicking in at 3500, after the morning ride in I have to say that slow speed corners are now much more predictable and trundling along at 40 in 5th no longer feels "undulating".

Thanks for the guide, much appreciated, worth checking even if just to see how far out your is set :)

[Ian P]

Mine was kicking in just shy of 4000rpm
Have now got it set at 1800rpm
Has made it allot smother at low speeds
Many thanks :D

[Rocket]

I found my 03 thou was set around 1,900RPM when warm (1,500 when stone cold). I've adjusted it as per but also balanced the throttle bodies whilst I was in there. Can't really say I ever had low RPM problems and have only done 30 miles on it since. Too early to tell if it has made any difference.

Can anyone explain where the 1,450RPM value was derived from as the procedure in the Suzuki manual downloaded off here has a diferent procedure that makes no mention of it.

[Rocket]

I've just done Dianes 650K4 and when warm the line on the dash was at the bottom, not the middle. Didn't go to the top until 3,000RPM. I have set it to 1,450 and balanced the throttle bodies at the same time. Couldn't fail to notice a big improvement this time.

[captainham]

Ok ok, I admit I was a little sceptical that something as simple as this could do so much good, but I figured 12+ pages of rave reviews couldn't be wrong...

...and they weren't - absolutely phenomenal difference, why all SVs aren't like this to begin with, I'll never know (there is NO way my K8 was ever like this but has since fallen out of adjustment, so I'd have to disagree strongly with those that say it leaves Suzuki's care in this condition).

Thank you so much, so much more confidence inspiring, I'm truly blown away by it.

[captainham]

PS. For anyone that hasn't done this yet, I found it best to set the TPS initially so that it kicked in at idle, but then as I tightened it back up it dropped back to around 1650/1700rpm...that was precise enough for me, we are really talking a gnat's c0ck of adjustment..

[Dave Bullet]

I found my 03 thou was set around 1,900RPM when warm (1,500 when stone cold). I've adjusted it as per but also balanced the throttle bodies whilst I was in there. Can't really say I ever had low RPM problems and have only done 30 miles on it since. Too early to tell if it has made any difference.

Can anyone explain where the 1,450RPM value was derived from as the procedure in the Suzuki manual downloaded off here has a diferent procedure that makes no mention of it.

I'm guessing the 1,450 is purely picked as just above the recommended idle range. That is - you want the injectors to start pumping more fuel as soon as you nudge the throttle. This is all it takes to keep the SV trundling along at low speeds / revs. Any higher and you'd still have uneven running.

Same applies for higher revs and lower gears where the engine isn't labouring.... My SV still felt rough at 4,000 revs before - not now.

[gypsy_100]

Great tutorial. Thanks. Just completed the process on my new ’09 DL650 V-Strom and the results are outstanding. My comments (V-Strom based and USA locale)… One of my biggest complaints was surging or jerkiness on deceleration as much as acceleration. Trying to hold a nice 5K rpm for a downhill sweeper or decelerate for a curve I’d find the bike surging or jerking as it passed thru certain rpm ranges, no doubt related to the exact throttle position/sensor position. This adjustment dramatically improved that complaint, and did wonders for the off-idle acceleration smoothness, too. I bought the official mode switch (09930-82720) for $14 US and a complete set of security torx bits at Sears (item 25702) for about $12 US. With the proper bit, there was no problem loosening the fastener. On the ‘09’s, and I assume ‘07’s and later, there is no idle adjustment screw. The computer keeps it running where it wants it. That simplifies things for this procedure. My TPS sensor had a mark painted on it by the factory. (If yours doesn’t, be sure you do it yourself.) Before adjustment, I found the “transition point” from the middle bar to the upper bar on the instrument panel readout was about 4K rpm. I loosened the fastener just enough so I thought I could move it the tiniest amount with some pressure. I applied a little pressure, did not feel the TPS sensor move at all, checked the throttle and found the transition point was now just about 1450 rpm. That’s how sensitive this adjustment is! I looked at the painted reference mark and could not visibly detect that the sensor had been moved at all. I gently tightened it, checked the throttle again – still the same, finished tightening it – still the same. I checked several times and the transition point was still there about 1450. Buttoned everything up, took a 50-mile test ride, rechecked again and all was well. And the test ride was great. Thanks again for the info. I’ll post this summary on the V-Strom forums and lead them to your tutorial.
Dave :D

[Rocket]

Well I know this might put the cat amongst the pidgeons but here goes. After doing this mod to my 03 thou I noticed straight away that my average fuel consumption had dropped from 55 to 52mpg. This was an average over 2,000 miles. I had changed nothing else on the bike so decided to undo the mod. I have now set my TPS so that the top line on the dash is displayed at as high an RPM as possible whilst still making sure that the middle line is displayed at tickover. This worked out at 2,500 RPM. Straight away the fuel consumption went back up to 55mpg and the bike is non the worse for it at low RPM.

[captainham]

After doing this mod to my 03 thou I noticed straight away that my average fuel consumption had dropped from 55 to 52mpg

Can't say I've noticed a drop in my own MPG since doing this and that was 1k ago.

Are you sure you weren't just gunning the throttle more
:)

[Rocket]

Defo not Sir. This is on a bike with over 61,000 miles done by me so it's not a false result. I even reset the TPS to 1,450 for a few tankfulls and the MPG went back down again.

[yorkie_chris]

No surprise, it is making it run lean on pickup.

What do you want, 3mpg or better pickup?

[Tallguy]

WARNING re TORX Security Bits!

I bought some in good faith from a local hardware shop, and it was only AFTER I'd chewed up the bolt head that I realised this:

The Draper TORX security bits I bought were "five pointed stars" not "six pointed". :smt102:confused::confused:

I didn't know they came in two flavours, and of course thought it was the chewed up bolt head rather than me doing the chewing :thumbdown:

I replaced the bolt with a cheapo one, which I think has loosened 'cos it's jerky again about 4000rpm. Guess what I'll be doing this weekend?!

Hope this helps someone.

Honestly, 5-pointed Torx security bits are available to those dim enough (:laughat:like me) to not count the points - why would you? I didn't and made an assumption, which made an ass out of me and "umption"!!

[Rocket]

Chris, that's the point. I don't have bad pickup or snatchy throttle from low RPM so I'm having the 3mpg.

[yorkie_chris]

Hmmm OK, that is strange. A few 650s I have tested before and after showed a large improvement in pickup. I'd probably describe it as same as moving the needle a groove or so on a carbed bike.

[Rocket]

I did notice a big improvement when I adjusted the TPS on Diane's 650 but she doesn't keep fuel logs to notice what the effect on MPG was. Maybe the extra rotating mass of the thous engine coupled with its better lowdown torque masks bad pickup, maybe I'm just delicate on the throttle as I do spend a lot of time riding below 2,500 rpm in town. An indicated 32MPH in 5th is perfectly doable with good pickup.

[LK-SV]

Nice one .... I shall do this asap ....

I was actually about to start searching why my bike was so lumpy at lower revs ..... I have to say I didn't notice it at first, but as I've relaxed with the bike (had it about a month now) .... I've noticed it more and more.... this morning (after filling up at Sainsburys) was the last straw !!

Cheers !!!

ps. an other novice DIY'er mods ..... anything that can make it look like a Daytona 675 ?? :-)

[LK-SV]

Oh - one other thing ....

You say that 'your prefer temperature is......'

Is there a way of adjusting the running temperature ..... Mine fluctuates (quick quickly) between 89 and 80 ...and somewhere in between!!

[barwel1992]

did this to day works ok no great improvment but could do 35mph in 6th and not have it stall so thats somthing lol i supose, defo more pick up in 2nd as i can now power wheely in 1st and 2nd gear

PS got mine set to exactly just under the 1500rpm mark EG 1450rpm :D was at 3200rpm

ohh and buy the way what do you lot use to prop the tank up as i had to use a screw driver but seems like the sv has a tank prop ???

[LK-SV]

There's is a tank prop under the pillion seat ....on the pointy antway!!

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah same on curvy.

[barwel1992]

ahh ok well when i got the bike it had a aftermarket undertray fitted so i probs dont have it :/ ohh well i just used a big screwdriver

[sz1]

i think the wife's 650 tps needs setting up what are the traits of this?

also are tre's a worth while mod my thou has one but had it on when i got it so dont really know what difference it makes cheers Craig

[barwel1992]

good mod but i shreaded the bolts as i dident have the right size saftey key ...... i had 20 and 27 needed 25 :@ and must have the whole in the middle

so had to cut a slot in it to about 20min to cut the slot with a saw then remeberd i had a dremel any way it took like 5 seconds to set and i got mine dead on 1.45k i can now power wheely in 2nd from a dead stop, not as much engine braking so when you foul a down shift it dosent lock the rear wheel as much

all in all worth while mod just make sure u have the tools :)

[sz1]

done this morning hers wasn't moving till 3.5k went fairly easy took about 20 Min's only thing i did differently was put me torx bit in a small socket and used a 1/4 inch drive made it a lot easier. result a lot smoother.

[andy1433]

hi all,just a question,i have just tried to set tps position at 1450 revs as decribed and with it set around there the engine is running very rough,i reset to 3000 as it was to start with and it runs smoothly again.
has anyone else found this ? i will check throttle balance tommorow and see if they are out and then try again.
any ideas welcomed,
cheers andy

[Dave20046]

Brilliant thread, does coombest still post?

Quick question I'd appreciate if anyone could answer; does this need checking periodically?

It says they are set wrong at the factory so I assume it only needs doing once but could someone confirm?

[barwel1992]

not sure, i may check it and if its exactly the same in a cople of months i doubt it need doing more than once

[yorkie_chris]

Easier to check than adjust!

[barwel1992]

^^^ agreed those bloody cheese screws are anoying !

[Holdup]

Just done mine :D

Set it to just under 1500 rpm but i like to have my idle about that speed...

F**king battery died though! which was great but luckily my FZR battery still had charge :cool: so i bumped it from that and manged to set it, but cant test it due to the flat battery, work in a mo and i dunno when ill be able to get out on my bike next to test it :(

Any way i managed to chew up the top one upon tightening, could of been worse could of chewed it up undoing it...

Thanks for the guide :thumright:

[Bedhead]

Had a quick shufty at mine, but my dealer code plug has 6 terminals and a metal thing conecting all 6 under the plastic cover?????:confused::confused::confused:

[Holdup]

Had a quick shufty at mine, but my dealer code plug has 6 terminals and a metal thing conecting all 6 under the plastic cover?????:confused::confused::confused:

I would suggest you have found the wrong plug then :confused:

It is quite hard to find, mine was tucked right into the left hand side pannel and i had to get some long nosed pliers to gai access to it

[BAZEN]

Just completed the TPS adjustment, the line moved up on my SV 650 at 4000rpm, now moving at just above idle speed, I cant believe the difference, its a much smoother ride all round, going down through the gears is now really smooth, previously it tended to just drop of probably when below 4000 rpm and get really lumpy, the main problem of very erratic tick over now seems OK.
Thanks very much for this info, pictures were a great help.

Ade.

[Milanodan]

Checked my '05 today. Bike has 19K miles. Bar was in middle position-ignition on, not running and when idling. Moved up to top at ~3,300. Noticed that as I moved (very little) the adjustment CCW, the bar went up to the top but the engine slowed way down--almost stalled. Moving the TPS CW made the bar drop to the bottom, but the RPM went up quite a ways.

Makes me wonder if the TPS changes the ign. timing, retarding it a lot as it is made richer. As others have noted, the TPS adjustment is very touchy--the slightest movement has a BIG effect. I ended up with the bar going all the way up ~2,500.

[barwel1992]

going to redo mine when i have new air filter and velocity stacks in her, but shreaded the bolt doing it up so looks like i will be getting the dremel out, the bottom one has already been replaced

[Teabag]

Did my K7 last weekend - was 3500rpm now ~1500. Makes a big difference to the smoothness around town. Well worth doing. K7 onwards only has one screw but two TPSs. Only need to do the bottom one (the top one monitors the idle speed control I think).

[yorkie_chris]

Top one is secondary throttle valve TPS.

[Nobbylad]

Did mine today, makes a huge difference, really smooths out the power lower down. Mine was 5,000rpm, now just under 1,500.

My K8 only had one torx screw at the top of the sensor so it was a doddle to adjust it.

[barwel1992]

any one know what size bolts i need to replace the originals (one) with

k3 pointy

[yorkie_chris]

M5x10 IIRC but wait for soemone to confirm that.

[barwel1992]

ok cheers

and will do

[Nobbylad]

Can't you take one out of yours and measure it?

[barwel1992]

not without replacing them, the one i replaced the head went putting it back in, found it lying around and its just as soft as the originals, and the original one is also buggerd

so want to order new ones before i remove them

[cF^]

Wow, can't beleive I've only just found this thread. Will give this a go as soon as I've got an hour to spare. Why isn't this stickied??

[Willcat]

Just done mine, made quite a difference, really a must-do adjustment!

Didn't bother get security torx bits, just undid the top one slightly using pliers and a few knocks on the sensor with a mallet. A bit brutal but did the job, now it goes up at 1500rpm.

[davepreston]

ahhhhhhh but is it the same with the thou

[barwel1992]

^ think so dave, lots of people on svrider with thou's and they sead it worked but not 100% on what they did and if its the same

EDIT hear you go http://www.suzukisv1000.com/faq/tps.htm

[Sid Squid]

Yes. SV1000 is the same.

[watsontrio]

Had a ride on my bro's pointy earlier and felt odd compared to my curvy so a quick search and 20mins later job done. He said it's transfomed his, it was at 3800rpm.

Cheers chap!

[adamhuntuk]

Hello everyone. I did this to my 2005 pointy today and it feels like a new bike. I was just wondering if anyone who did this adjustment a while ago has re-checked after a couple of thousand miles to see if it needs doing again?
Also when i tightened the bolt up i managed to strip the head, has anyone managed to confirm what size and thread the bolts are?

Many Thanks

[Owenski]

never noticed this, a job for the bank holiday nice one.

[Miss_Undaztood]

I checked it on mine when I got the bike as I could hardly ride the thing slowly.
Made a massive difference :)

[Nobbylad]

never noticed this, a job for the bank holiday nice one.

Probably the best 10 minute mod you can do to your bike (cheesbolts permitting)

[Vigsta]

Just did this on my K9 650SF... All I can say is that it worked amazing. My TPS seemed to be off more than most as it wouldn't raise the bar until about 4,000. Loosened the screw and tapped it about 1 degree counter clockwise and that put it right at 1400 on the money. I tapped it another half degree counter clockwise to avoid it moving too far when i re-tightened the screw. After all was said and done, the TPS now raises the bar right around 1450 which is great. The results were noticed immediately. Before, the bike was hell to ride in slow traffic in first. I had to use a fist full of clutch just to keep it going. After the mod, traffic is crazy easy. Thanks for posting!

[DarrenSV650S]

I put mine a bit lower than 1450rpm. So it basically changes as soon as I touch the throttle.

[SVFreak]

This video by Suzuki confirms that this is a necessary adjustment and not a "mod". It also confirms that the 1400 rpm figure is correct and explains in slightly more detail were the line should be in relation to idle and then throttle i:e centre and top.
It's on a TL1000 but virtually identical to the guide originally posted here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQMqN_7zL2M

[yorkie_chris]

This thread should be a sticky with all crap trimmed out of it

[Bibio]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQMqN_7zL2M

that plonker loves the sound of his own voice. fek me he dont half rant on about a simple adjustment.

[bengrrr]

awesome i shall be doing this well done for taking the time for us all to show us in detail.
:cheers::cheers::cheers:

[bengrrr]

This is probably a really dumb question and i probably should try it first before asking but...
My speado isn't functioning properly and giving me dodgy readouts as somewhere along the line its faulty.
Would this effect me doing this though or should it still function ok as i don't think the problem is in the clock?
Hope that makes sense :scratch:

[yorkie_chris]

Should not make any difference. Most speedo problems on SV come from dodgy rotor.

[bengrrr]

sweet thanks

[CharlesP]

My first post ever here, lets make it worth it hehe

TPS sensor adjustment on a SV650s 2007 (slightly different than the 2k3 in this tutorial):

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/debile_album/tps.jpg

If you move the sensor too much like 5mm, the engine will have trouble finding back its idle speed. Turn off the bike, restart and continue adjustment.

The bike runs so much better now!!! V-Twin FTW!

[davepreston]

careful charlie first post something usefull, the animals will start to circle and question your motives lol
welcome and cracking first post btw

[Reeder]

I did this yesterday to my naked K5 and it was alot easier than I thought it would be :)
The hardest part was finding a place that had the security torx bit! Halfords and B&Q near me didnt have them! Ended up going to a good old local department store which funnily enough had them in their tools section!

[Sid Squid]

@ Charles P.

Other than the sensor being mounted the other way 'round, (which makes no practical difference, it still works identically), on the bikes I have worked on, (older, younger and similar in age to your own), this process is identical, no? If yours is not then perhaps you could explain what's different
I note you are in Canada, perhaps there is some difference twixt our and your market's bikes.

[Bibio]

aahhh but mr squid both sensors look identical and there is only 1 bolt as opposed to the two shown in the original guide. which was much confusion when they changed them to the newer ones hence the need for the discussion about it earlier on in the thread (think its about the middle). its nice to see someone has taken time out to actually take a photo for future reference for the 'not so spanner minded' lot amongst us.

[CharlesP]

Bibio is right. I couldn't find the exact sensor in the original guide so after looking at the tread and finding nothing clear, I started the mod on the wrong sensor. I eventually figured it out after a few minutes of "hey it's not working, should turn it more". Took the picture to help future apprentice mechanics like me

There is only one screw indeed and as a French Canadian, I confirm it's French cheese :smt045

[Stainlessman]

I know it's been a few months since anyone responded to this thread, but I just had an interesting experience with this mod. I own a 2007 SV650 like the one pictured a few posts above, with the single-screw-mounted TPS. Since I don't own a set of security torx bits yet, but I had some time on my hands, I decided to do a walk-through of the mod so I would feel more comfortable with it when I had the right tool for the job. I placed the wire into the diagnostic plug as demonstrated and began trying to find the fuel-dump point indicated by the dash moving upward. It did not happen at 1450 RPM, as was predicted. I eased the throttle on some more until I reached 3000 where the OP wagered it would happen, yet still the dash did not move. So, up I went, past 3500, past 4000... then bang!!!!!! The dash did not move upward until I reached 4500 RPM!!!! Until this time I had been experiencing the same hideous lack of fine throttle control since I bought the bike back in November. I loved the bike and wanted to keep it so I was lucky to stumble across this thread while searching for a clue. Ok here's the weird and interesting part. Since I did that yesterday and simply put the bike back together without actually having performed the adjustment, THE BIKE HAS BEEN PERFORMING BEAUTIFULLY!!!:cheers: The jerky low-speed throttle response is gone!:p All I did was insert the jumper wire and rev the bike 'til the dash moved on the display and then put it back together. It is so awesome to finally be able to just ease onto the throttle when coming out of a corner and smoothly accelerate.:cool: I can ease on and off the throttle the way it was meant to be and not look like some novice on his first bike (cuz I'm not one). I was so tired of having to feather the clutch to compensate for this irritation. I can't explain why the problem resolved, I'm just thrilled that it did! Just thought I'd share. Ride On......:smt040

[captainham]

@STainlessman: out of interest, have you tried redoing the test to see if the fueling point has changed itself?

[Stainlessman]

No, captainham, I haven't tried redoing the test. I've been busy riding. The weather here in the D.C. area has taken a remarkable turn for the better. And, to be honest, I don't want to risk altering the current status quo. [-o<

[Chuckie]

ARRRRGH!!! I've just attempted to do this all was going well untill I had to undo the sensor. I couldn't budge the screw type things any advice?

[Chuckie]

ARRRRGH!!! I've just attempted to do this all was going well untill I had to undo the sensor. I couldn't budge the screw type things any advice?

[CodeJACK]

Invest in the correct tool for the job to get the angle and correct fit on them very soft screws :rolleyes:

Here's a question, if I have a PC3 do i need to do this or can its TPS feature handle this?

[Chuckie]

I've got the correct tools :-p . Just need to know if the sensor is in a different place on a k6

[Bibio]

no its in the same place. if you have a K6 use the original guide. there are 2 bolts holding the K6 TPS

[Mr_Chin]

PITA to get it done correctly, but very much so worth it. You lose soooo much of the jerky slow riding/engine braking once done. Very, very good adjustment IMO.
I loosened both the torx screws, but more on the right one and less on the left one to pivot the sensor to the correct setting.
HTH
Chin

[Chuckie]

Well I've had another bash at this and the top screw is well mashed up. I used the right tools just a bit too much force. Is there an easy fix for this

[TSM]

Well I've had another bash at this and the top screw is well mashed up. I used the right tools just a bit too much force. Is there an easy fix for this

use mole grips and take the screws off, replace with another one afterwards.

[Chuckie]

Thanks TSM. what size screws and type do I use to replace them with?

[Nobbylad]

Take the bolts to B&Q, Screwfix or local DIY shop and get some the same size. Just go for plain allen key bolts as opposed to security torx bolts.

[Webber]

Just done this to my k3, the line was at the very bottom on idle, 20 mins of fiddling had it in the middle at idle and top at about 2000rpm. Easy enough mod, about 30 mins to do, cant say i notice tones of difference but not been on a proper ride yet.

Bolts were fine, easy to undo and no cheeseness! Used a set of brand new security hex keys from halfords £13.

Only mistake i made was to completely remove the sensor cover not just losen the bolts, thats what you get for not reading it properly !

Good guide though many thanks!

[Chuckie]

Finally done it.

[philz]

Did mine today, amazing difference - soooo smooth now, can't believe I didn't do it earlier.

Took about an hour from start to finish but that was mainly because it took me ages to get the setting just right, it's a bit fiddly isn't it!?

If you haven't done it already, get your toolbox out and do it asap.

[maxinc]

Out of curiosity, are all bikes affected by this? I have the K9 and didn't notice the symptoms or maybe I just learned to live with them. I wonder if I should attempt this, it looks simple enough.

[ya92]

i did it and it's feel good! :) Thanks!

[maxinc]

I've been paying attention lately to my revs at various low speed scenarios and I can't seem to ride under 3000rpm so the mod may not apply to me at all. Can't seem to tell any roughness either.

[spider101]

I did the mod (k5 bike) no problems took about 20mins. It was set at about 3500rpm, I set it to 1500. Didn't notice any difference on my commute the next morning, but then most of that is 4000rpm+. I did notice the difference when I got into town at lower speeds, engine breaking doesn't feel quite so abrupt but is still strong and the gentle on/off throttle inputs at lower revs feel smoother. Overall pleased with the result.

[Bibio]

I can't seem to ride under 3000rpm so the mod may not apply to me at all.

that's exactly what the adjustment is for. roundabouts in particular are a pain without it unless you have mastered the clutch and throttle action. it smooths the lower rev range out to give you better control (reduces the snatchiness).