View Full Version : TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide
Sid Squid
10-05-11, 05:30 PM
It isn't a 'mod' - it's an adjustment that's in the scheduled maintenance.
It isn't a 'mod' - it's an adjustment that's in the scheduled maintenance.
Interesting. Would you happen to know what rpm does Suzuki recommend and why is it setup differently?
suzuki as far as i'm led to believe use a multimeter or some other electronic device and near enough is good enough for suzuki. they are set at the factory and are probably within spec there but as you know once the bike is run in the tolerances have altered as everything 'beds in'.
we on the other hand are fanatics and strive to make things better and thanks to some genius who worked out how to do it we can all do it ourselves.
if i remember the adjustment is to do with keeping the injector squirting longer and in doing so smooths the jerkiness out in the lower rev range.
it works, but better for some than others.
Sid Squid
10-05-11, 10:47 PM
Interesting. Would you happen to know what rpm does Suzuki recommend and why is it setup differently?
It isn't setup differently, all the info on it it's all here in this thread.
Sadly there's also a stunning amount of tosh too.
TPS setting doesn't decide when to 'put more fuel in' at idle it has its greatest effect on ignition timing. Fuelling requirements are decided by a whole lot more than throttle position.
All right, so I had a play with it, and although I wasn't really convinced with the dash indicator, it felt really different during a couple of slow and tight roundabouts. What initially felt like a lack of power and asking for clutch assistance, it is now very comfortable indeed.
I wasn't convinced initially because, despite turning the TPS CCW significantly, the dash only seem to react at the extremes. Either 3000rpm +/- 200rpm or at about 1500 which was very close to idle and changed with the slightest touch of the throttle. I left it eventually at about 2900rpm, about 2mm from the initial position. The effect on the road is significant indeed. Maybe I'll have another go on the next occasion.
Oh, and I used an insulated paper clip "tool" instead of the flexible wire.
i set mine to 1400. as long as its not on idle then i think its fine.
Dopelgaenger
24-09-11, 02:43 AM
First off.. the original post should be edited to not say "I think it's counter clockwise". It should say it IS COUNTERCLOCKWISE.
Secondly as others have said, a 1/4 inch driver with a security T25 bit will avoid all cheese, no extra pair of hands is needed. Don't try and do this with a screwdriver and the torx bit unless you already have replacement bolts.
To avoid the line in front of the zeros going back up to 3000 rpm when tightening the screws up, tighten the bottom screw back up first, tightening the top screw first tends to push it back the way it came from and offset all your infuriatingly hard work. Once the bottom one is tight you can tighten the top one without it counteracting you.
After riding, I can only say OH HELL YEAH. It makes leaving a stop so much smoother
tonyblaze
24-09-11, 11:15 PM
Thanks greatly for this outstanding topic. I did my SV650S today. Took a bit longer than 20 minutes but I got it done without drama. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I'm a new rider and the on/off throttle response was causing me major stress, very twitchy at the worst times. I took the bike out after the mod and it's like a completely different bike. Very smooth at low RPM's, rolling off the throttle no longer has me gripping the bars and it might be just in my mind but it definitely feels like it has more power down low. Mine was originally set at 3600. With a lot of fiddling I got it set around 1800 at which point I decided to leave well enough alone because one of the screws was geting squirrelly. I'll be swapping those out for allen head screws very soon. Thanks again!
dxaxrxc
29-09-11, 03:21 AM
I have tried this with a neighbor for an hour or more. No luck. I got it down to 2800. I have an 07 which means the idle adjusts itself. With that being said the line starts in the middle but too much adjusting and the line jumps to the top. So we used that as a starting point and would tap it ever so slightly till the line moved back to the middle and we would test it. We must have tried that 20 times and the best we could do was 2800. Any help would be very welcome.
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lx_online
29-09-11, 03:35 PM
I have tried this with a neighbor for an hour or more. No luck. I got it down to 2800. I have an 07 which means the idle adjusts itself. With that being said the line starts in the middle but too much adjusting and the line jumps to the top. So we used that as a starting point and would tap it ever so slightly till the line moved back to the middle and we would test it. We must have tried that 20 times and the best we could do was 2800. Any help would be very welcome.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk
I had to adjust both the idle screw and the TPS sensor to get it lower...were you just making adjustments using the TPS?
dxaxrxc
30-09-11, 03:15 AM
My idle is automatic. ECU controls it. It is always at 1300.
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acecafemod
17-11-11, 08:43 AM
Did this yesterday on my K6, it was factory set at almost 3700 and got it down to 1600. Less than half an hour work and the bike is now considerably smoother at low rpms. U-turns won't be a pain anymore!
Thanks for the info!
Mine was adjusted for a second time having crept it's way up. If I start conking out again I guess I'm gonna need a new TPS.
I have tried this with a neighbor for an hour or more. No luck. I got it down to 2800. I have an 07 which means the idle adjusts itself. With that being said the line starts in the middle but too much adjusting and the line jumps to the top. So we used that as a starting point and would tap it ever so slightly till the line moved back to the middle and we would test it. We must have tried that 20 times and the best we could do was 2800. Any help would be very welcome.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk
I have an 07 model and have no idle adjust either.. The TPS also appears to be different - only one screw. I tried the adjustment today. Was initially set at 3000 rpm - managed to set it at about 1800 rpm. The rotation to do the adjustment is so small the I cant visibly see the change - the paint marks still seem in the same position. It does seem to make a difference to the on/off/on throttle changes at low revs. I'm guessing that if your not going through the transition point in normal riding (other than starting from idle) then there will be some improvement. All up only took about 15minutes. I also measured the resistances of the TPS connections (with wires disconnected) before I did the adjustment- forgot to do the after, but can do it if anyone is interested.
Urbanfireblade
15-01-12, 03:21 PM
Done mine today for the first time. So easy to do, i have a 61-plate(2011) Sv 650s, 1650 miles on the clock/3months old. Was at 2900rpm, now is at 1550rpm. Slightly smoother at low revs, just a little, but enough to notice. It only needed moving maybe 0.5mm
Epic Monkey
24-01-12, 07:32 PM
Checked mine yesterday and it was up at 3100 which explains my earlier post about a jerky ride around this rpm. When I went to adjust the sensor it looks different to this guide ( I have a 61 reg).
Is the correct sensor the one on the right? There is only 1 bolt (that I can see)
http://img.tapatalk.com/5addbcdd-0730-12c0.jpg
federer
01-03-12, 07:15 PM
Just wanted to say a massive thanks for making this guide! I did mine today, took half hour or so I guess, mine was up about 4k to begin with now at 1500. Only went out for a quick spin but much better I think.
Once again. Thanks!
motormike
22-03-12, 02:12 AM
So I got my 05' sv650 about a month ago and after reading about this adjustment, I decided to do it today. It took me a while to get it idling at 1200 with the line in the center and the line moving up around 1500 but I finally got it (after about an hour :)) I tightened the bolts while the bike was still running to make sure I didn't move the sensor and I was real happy with myself. That is until I shut the bike off and tried to start it again. No go. It cranks but doesn't start. After one or two tries it doesn't even crank. Then I let it sit for a minute, try again and it cranks again but doesn't start. I actually got it to start once and it idled at 1200 and the line moved to the top at 1500 just as before. The adjustment worked, but it's no use if I can't start the bike :-/
I should probably mention that I have a Power Commander III with a map to match my exhaust (Dale Walker). I don't know if this makes a difference... I asked this question on svrider and was told that it should not matter at all; just that I need to recalibrate the PCIII after I do the TPS.
Anyone here successfully do this adjustment with a PCIII on board? Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated...
Update: It turns out that with my HIDs and the power commander, my battery actually discharges when the bike is idling. I charged the battery overnight and it starts up perfectly now. The line is in the center at idle and moves up around 1400rpm. The only concern I have left is that when the bike is started cold, it idles higher, above the threshold, so it warms up with the line at the top, not in the center. Once it gets warm enough and the idle drops below this threshold, it is in the center again. I don't really understand what the line moving up indicates in terms of FI, but I just want to be sure it's not bad for the engine to be idling with the line at the top when its warming up from a cold start. Thank you!
sath182
07-04-12, 09:24 AM
So I got my 05' sv650 about a month ago and after reading about this adjustment, I decided to do it today. It took me a while to get it idling at 1200 with the line in the center and the line moving up around 1500 but I finally got it (after about an hour :)) I tightened the bolts while the bike was still running to make sure I didn't move the sensor and I was real happy with myself. That is until I shut the bike off and tried to start it again. No go. It cranks but doesn't start. After one or two tries it doesn't even crank. Then I let it sit for a minute, try again and it cranks again but doesn't start. I actually got it to start once and it idled at 1200 and the line moved to the top at 1500 just as before. The adjustment worked, but it's no use if I can't start the bike :-/
I should probably mention that I have a Power Commander III with a map to match my exhaust (Dale Walker). I don't know if this makes a difference... I asked this question on svrider and was told that it should not matter at all; just that I need to recalibrate the PCIII after I do the TPS.
Anyone here successfully do this adjustment with a PCIII on board? Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated...
Update: It turns out that with my HIDs and the power commander, my battery actually discharges when the bike is idling. I charged the battery overnight and it starts up perfectly now. The line is in the center at idle and moves up around 1400rpm. The only concern I have left is that when the bike is started cold, it idles higher, above the threshold, so it warms up with the line at the top, not in the center. Once it gets warm enough and the idle drops below this threshold, it is in the center again. I don't really understand what the line moving up indicates in terms of FI, but I just want to be sure it's not bad for the engine to be idling with the line at the top when its warming up from a cold start. Thank you!
I just did my '09 last night. The one screw threw me for a loop, btw. Anyway I have a PC5 plugged into my bike and I pulled up the TPS calibration box on the corresponding software. If you calibrate your throttle position with the PC and then open the box back up you can visually look at the voltage being sent from your TPS and adjust it that way. Mine ended up being calibrated to 1.023v at 0% and 4.257v at 100%. When I adjusted the TPS my line was moving from the bottom to the middle at ~1.050v. So I adjusted the TPS to read ~1.036v on closed throttle. That put my line movement right at 1450rpm. Another benefit of using the software, I was able to watch the voltage for change as I tightened the screw. Just don't re-calibrate your TPS in the power commander or you'll be back to square one.
On a separate note, the threads for these bolts is the same as the generic well nuts in my wind screen.
chester_dio
10-04-12, 12:31 PM
I tried to do the adjustment today. The top bolt came out but i didnt manage to untighten the bottom one. After many efforts it is now completely rounded. Is there anything I can do to take it out?
I tried to do the adjustment today. The top bolt came out but i didnt manage to untighten the bottom one. After many efforts it is now completely rounded. Is there anything I can do to take it out?
A light application of penetrating oil as close to the thread as you can get it. Then gently hacksaw a slot across the rounded screw head, use a short flat bladed screw driver to remove it. Alternatively, careful use of a centre punch to rotate the screw head in the correct direction to undo it.
chester_dio
10-04-12, 05:04 PM
Alternatively, careful use of a centre punch to rotate the screw head in the correct direction to undo it.
How can I rotate the the screw head with a centre punch??
I did this the other day and low end pickup is smoother and less jerky.
easier and smoother around town traffic.
How can I rotate the the screw head with a centre punch??
The punch can be placed at the edge of the screw head, tapping it with a hammer to make a small indentation first and then slightly more sharply to rotate the head around.
Sid Squid
10-04-12, 07:05 PM
Chester_dio: Take the throttle bodies off and use pliers or grips to undo the screw, it really isn't tight, just a little awkward to get to, using grips it will come out quite easily.
For preference replace the screw with something easier to remove.
I adjusted my SV1000 again. Bar on the dash was moving at about 1800 revs or so, wasnt far out and took a little faffing around but the effort to get things spot on is worth it. Even adjusting from 1800 to moving at 1500 has improved things further.
Very smooth acceleration and slow running now.
sputnik
14-04-12, 03:13 PM
Finally got round to doing this - most pleased!
It has really smoothed out the jerkiness at low revs - not necessarily gone 100%, but deffo a whole lot better. It was previously kicking in at about 3800rpm. Thanks to all who have posted clear and helpful pointers and thanks to the original poster too.
I changed the plugs while I was at it which probably helps too although the old plugs looked fine. I always like to do two fixes to a problem at one time. That way I never find out what made the difference!:rolleyes:
chester_dio
19-04-12, 02:34 PM
Then gently hacksaw a slot across the rounded screw head, use a short flat bladed screw driver to remove it.
That did the trick and was much easier than I had thought. Thanks a lot for the idea Fylmo.
I did the adjustment and it feels a lot better now while manuvering at slow speeds. I got it down from 3500 to 1550.
Twed650
19-04-12, 04:44 PM
i checked mine and the bar didnt even move at 6000RPM! :eek:
replaced it but not checked what engine speed it moves at but it's VERY sensitive and has resolved my problems with it running exremely lean over 5500rpm. :)
Thanks for the great tutorial!!!! :smt041
Just finished this and it's so smoooooooooth.
Makes town riding a lot more enjoyable.
Thanks again
I would like to thank you for this wonderful tutorial.
I have bought my sv650s K6 as my first bike just couple of months ago. I was very uncomfortable riding my bike in a city as it was very jumpy at low revs.
This adjustment made a huge difference, the motorbike became very smooth.
Just out of curiosity let me tell you how my bike was set up before adjustment:
- RPMs were too high on idle at around 1650 - 1700
- when I tried to use the idle adjust screw it did not help as the bike would stall on me, then a throttle pull would stall the bike again
- when the engine was cold I had to let it settle at least to 45 degrees of Celsius otherwise it would stall when shifting to N or when taking off with less then 3500 RPMs
This could actually help some of you guys as my bike was different then from what is in the tutorial. My sensor was set a WAY OVER thus very jumpy bike at lower revs.
- when I set the motorcycle to a dealer mode "the minus sign" was not aligned at the middle however it was already at the top with above mentioned 1650 - 1700 RPMS
- it took me couple of minutes to align the minus sign to the middle position by turning the sensor anti - clockwise - this was my start point for further adjustment
- the top was then around 4100 RPMs
- after turning the sensor further more to left and keeping the minus still at the middle I was able to set it at 1500 RPMs.
The RESULTS
- the bike starts nicely and does not stall
- the idle RPMS are now around 1350
- the top RPMs are now at 1500
- I can now take off just by slowly releasing the clutch without any throttle
- running at low RPMs and shifting is smooth
- all done in 40 mins
Thanks again for this.
muzikill
15-05-12, 05:08 PM
Did it, love it. Balanced the carbs again after doing it. Sorted :)
As the injectors kick in earlier has anyone seen any changes to tank range, mileage etc....?
The Guru
16-05-12, 08:14 AM
Did it, love it. Balanced the carbs again after doing it...
You replace your throttle bodies with carbs? :rolleyes:
muzikill
16-05-12, 08:22 AM
You replace your throttle bodies with carbs? :rolleyes: duh! hahah you know what i meant :)
Did this today. Line was moving up at about 3500rpm.
Thanks to this great write up the job tok around 30mins from tools out to tools away.
I've not read whole thread so don't know if it's been mentioned already, but to make getting to the bottom torx screw easier I used a 1/4" ring spanner to hold the torx bit. A 6mm socket on a mini ratchet wrench would probably do the job even better.
Thanks to the OP for posting this up :)
unclepoo
15-07-12, 09:25 PM
Done mine tonight....I shouldn`t start jobs when its getting dark...but the hardest part is finding the right plug to put it into service mode, that and the bike stalling a couple of times as I tweeked the TPS...gotta go out for a ride now and see how the bike feels, can`t be any worse as the little line was moving at 3500rpm ish. Is the figure of 1450rpm come from a main dealers ??
muzikill
15-07-12, 09:59 PM
Most people have it set at that. My one is set at 1900 along with a throttle balance. My bikes a k3 and I found after much adjusting that it was the best compromise. I found 1450 to be fine when rolling off the throttle but to much of a power burst when trying to control when twisting the throttle on.
KeithCRM
15-07-12, 11:20 PM
Did mine last week on my thou. Worked a treat, much better at very low speed. I found this little tool was just the job.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro-39-8-pce-tx-tamper-proof-bit-set
Hey guys,
Tried doing this and was able to loosen the top TPS bolt but have completely wrecked the bottom bolt. Having a search through the thread, I have seen people have mentioned to replace with allen head bolts (and one person provided a link to sears) however I have not seen any links to the correct bolt from a UK site. I was wondering if people knew which bolt I could replace these with (when I do finally get it off)?
Regards,
Ravi
Epic Monkey
16-07-12, 11:17 AM
Hey guys,
Tried doing this and was able to loosen the top TPS bolt but have completely wrecked the bottom bolt. Having a search through the thread, I have seen people have mentioned to replace with allen head bolts (and one person provided a link to sears) however I have not seen any links to the correct bolt from a UK site. I was wondering if people knew which bolt I could replace these with (when I do finally get it off)?
Regards,
Ravi
Yeah, those screws are awful. I'd also like to know what thread and size etc is needed for this. I just had a look at some parts fiches and they just list it as "Screw". Helpful.
unclepoo
16-07-12, 08:51 PM
I went out on the sv this evening....Its much smoother, now a pleasure to ride at slow speeds through town etc, only one complaint....where i was getting a nice bang on the over run at about 4500 before the tps adjustment...this seems to have almost gone, just one bang so far. The mid-range feels fatter too. I`m guessing slightly more fuel is now going in, so i might try removing the air-box snorkel again, I loved the noise but fueling wasn`t right before.
Taken mine to work tonight after adjusting yesterday. Defo smoother lower down, nicer pick up through the rev range.
i might try removing the air-box snorkel again, I loved the noise but fueling wasn`t right before.
You could try the sv1000 snorkel. No fueling problems here and had it in for a few months now. Noise is somewhere between 650 snorkel in and no snorkel at all. No performance gains to be had but if it's the noise you like.....
just cut the 650 snorkel it works a treat.
dirtyred619
18-07-12, 08:11 PM
I've just done this tonight after only spotting the thread the other day. My line was moving from middle to top at 3500 revs! I bought the tool from a few posts ago as I didn't have the right bits and found adjusting the sensor quite easy and managed to get it pretty much bang on now so the line moved just after starting to rev. It's defo smoother now although I didn't think it was too bad before. And while I had the tank up I did a snorkelectomy at the same time and gotta say I quite like the extra noise!
heedbaw
19-07-12, 04:37 PM
I've run into a problem getting my K5 back on the road, everything was going fine but now it won't fire up. Checking the dealer codes and I noticed that the line is up at the top without as soon as the ignition is turned on. Anyone know if adjusting the TPS could help here, I'm assuming as it's at that position that it's just flooding the engine on start-up. There are no error codes appearing, checked all wiring and connections, coils, spark plugs etc.
Thing is the first time I fired it up everything was running smooth, wheeled it out the garage and it died. Now it's being stubborn and refusing to start.
Elliott
19-07-12, 04:51 PM
Before you touch anything check power (battery) Fuel (Pump + tank) Spark.
If none of them have caused it then go ahead.
unclepoo
19-07-12, 06:04 PM
If the line is at the top at tick-over, it is over fueling. Loosen the screws and and move the tps a fraction clockwise. Turn off the ignition and remove the wire link. Restart, if you can.
heedbaw
05-08-12, 04:09 PM
Okay, I'm back for more. I've done the adjustment and it's coming in where I want it. But I'm not having much luck. Got MOT'd, but somehow managed to snap the chain on the way back. Replaced chain and went and got taxed, then had no joy getting it started.
It's turning over but not catching, I've since took a multimeter to everything but that turned up nothing, neither is there any warnings or error codes. As a last try I put my bro's old NGK CR9s in in place of the new CR8s I had just fitted and it started on the button. Still has a bit of a rough spot when rolling onto the throttle between 3k and 3.5k that disappears when it hits 4k, but there's no problem if I just open it up a lot faster. Anyone have any ideas what could be happening here?
Kalessin
17-08-12, 11:13 PM
I first saw this thread about two years ago, but I'm no mechanic and the thought of tinkering with stuff that might make my bike cut out and refuse to start, as happened with other posters, put me right off. When I bought my SV, my first bike in 12 years, I noticed a lack of fine throttle control, but I naturally assumed it was me being out of practice.
Admittedly, it was partly me. But I've been riding for four years now and curiosity finally got the better of me. I read and re-read this thread to make sure I was as prepared as possible. I bought the required T25 security bit and made the adjustment.
Wow! It's now fantastic to ride!
I used to have to use the clutch for slow manoeuvring like turning right at mini roundabouts. Not any more. Everything feels much smoother, and I am more relaxed and confident as a result.
Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread, you all made it easy for me to improve my riding experience.
phil24_7
26-09-12, 07:37 AM
Would any adjustments made to the TPS affect a PCIII? I paid a lovely man to set up the PCIII properly and don't want to undo his hard work!
Regards
SV650Racer
26-09-12, 10:17 AM
^ no it wont affect the PC at all.
Jayneflakes
29-09-12, 05:46 PM
I have just done this check and discovered that my line moved at 4.5K! The difference is amazing.
On a side note, I replaced the rubbish Suzuki Bolts with Stainless steel Allen Head bolts. So much easier to adjust.
I have just done this check and discovered that my line moved at 4.5K! The difference is amazing.
On a side note, I replaced the rubbish Suzuki Bolts with Stainless steel Allen Head bolts. So much easier to adjust.
it's taken you this long to do it :smt044
Jayneflakes
29-09-12, 08:05 PM
it's taken you this long to do it :smt044
I was scared! :smt108
When it came to it though, I just took the wife's Lap top down the garage and had this thread on call the whole time. Fabulous help it was too. I cannot believe in the difference this has made, Sylvie has got a little more spirited on her take offs! :D
i have recently set mine just off tickover. basically as soon as i turn the throttle. so far (1000 miles) no adverse effects and it even smoother.
Jayneflakes
29-09-12, 09:34 PM
Now this looks better. https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/404652_10151410981255828_837822629_n.jpg
TicklinJock
29-09-12, 09:51 PM
Thanks to all for this!
I moved mine from 3100 to 1800rpm in June. I was getting a stutter when reapplying throttle in bends - this seems to have improved. Also picks away a wee bit more torquey and smooth.
I was concerned it would increase fuel consumption but it seems to be just the same.
Thanks to all for this!
I moved mine from 3100 to 1800rpm in June. I was getting a stutter when reapplying throttle in bends - this seems to have improved. Also picks away a wee bit more torquey and smooth.
I was concerned it would increase fuel consumption but it seems to be just the same.
get it further down than 1800 and its a lot smoother. it takes patience but it's worth it.
phil24_7
10-12-12, 01:06 PM
With the wifes bike set down that low its running v v rich and is checking muchos fumage out the can!
Is it possible that the bike has been tuned and so this adjustment won't work?
nope. tps is needed for the brain.
what's the bike idling at?
phil24_7
10-12-12, 07:33 PM
All sorted, it was me being stupid! After getting to page 16 or something I came across the Suzuki TL1000 TPS youtube clip and it was the best days work I did. I thought I was letting my bike get warm but it obviously wasn't hot enough. After disconnecting my service tool (funny name for a bit of wire!) I saw that I was too cold. This meant that it was impossible to set anywhere near right. After warming it up properly and following the youtube guide of making the line go to the top, then tap it back until the line goes to the middle, everything runs perfect. Can't notice much difference to what it was before but at least I know its correctly calibrated!
Regards and cheers for the guide.
Well, thanks so much for this. Relatively painless using a 1/4" ratchet, replaced the odd Torx security bolts with M5-16mm cap-head in case I ever have to do this again. Adjusted the transition time down from 3200 rpm to 1450, and now the herky-jerky low speed response is almost completely gone. Much, much more enjoyable!
Thanks again!
jdawg1983
01-04-13, 11:46 PM
Hi chaps and chapettes,
Tried this mod but could only get the bugger to idle properly when TPS set to just over 2000RPM, every time I attempted to go lower she coughed and spluttered went pop(almost like backfiring) and cut out! Decided to leave it as low as I could get it, but wanted to check in case i'm missing something. I did notice the idle dropped to 1000RPM for some reason when TPS set to below 2000RPM ???
Originally full injection was kicking in around 3500RPM.
Noticed a hell of difference though even if its not all the way down!
Mines a 650s k6 by the way. Tried it also after a longish run but same result, very weird !!!:riding:
your supposed to set the tickover at the same time to compensate the drop in revs.
Sid Squid
02-04-13, 09:37 AM
Balance the throttles.
jdawg1983
02-04-13, 10:30 PM
Oh pants!! Hmmm, Aren't special tools required for balancing ?
Sid Squid
02-04-13, 10:34 PM
Vacuum gauges.
aesmith
09-04-13, 07:22 PM
Just done mine, was only reacting at near to 4000rpm, now got it down to 1750 or so. They weren't joking when they said it takes a small adjustment! As suggested I replaced the Torx screws with Allen screws, although the originals weren't really a problem with the correct bit.
Thanks for the guide!
It made a noticeable difference on my bike.
It was easy enough that I could do it myself and I am a novice by any measure.
Was at 3500 rpm, now at 1600rpm, idle down from 1600 to 1200.
I had no problems with the torx screws, so they are still in.
Cheers
Ginja_Joe
29-04-13, 09:26 PM
Got all tooled up to do this today only to find that the security torx bit set I bought had 5 points on each bit. The tps needs 6. After another search around online I'm finding all 5s.
Can anyone link me to where I can get a 6 pointer from?
I've checked the original link to radio shack which is a discontinued product and the replacement is a 5 pointer.
aesmith
30-04-13, 07:49 AM
Can anyone link me to where I can get a 6 pointer from?
This is the one I bought ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300858528301?var=600084724920&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Did the trick for me. If you're really stuck, PM me your address and I'll post mine to you, together with a couple of suitable Allen screws to replace the originals.
Got mine from screwFix
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2
dirtyred619
30-04-13, 08:23 AM
Got my handy little set from Machine Mart.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro-39-8-pce-tx-tamper-proof-bit-set
Ginja_Joe
30-04-13, 12:34 PM
Thanks guys. I'll grab the bit off eBay.
I have done mine today, I am very pleased with the result. Much less jerky! I got used to using the clutch, so now I have to get rid of that habit...
It was set up at about 3500 rpm and I managed to get it down to 1500, so there is quite obvious difference.
No problem with cheesy screws though - I got this set and it worked like a charm:
http://www.silverlinetools.com/products?search=633840
Paid £6.39 on eBay...
oh, I also used insulated paper clip which works great as it snaps in perfectly
Ginja_Joe
08-05-13, 05:52 PM
The recommended bit from eBay worked a treat and the adjustment has made a massive difference. Went from about 4200rpm to 1900.
Pleased!
shiftin_gear98
17-05-13, 06:45 PM
Finally got round to doing this today, wish I hadn't put off doing it for so long.
Took 20 mins from start to finish!
Couldn't believe it when the line didn't move till 4200. WTF Suzuki. :confused:
Guess mine was assembled at 4.45 on a Friday! Now moves at just under 1500.
Can't wait till Monday to try it. If you haven't done this yet, please do. Peace of pish!
Just to clarify. Is this necessary for the K7+?
Sid Squid
18-05-13, 08:59 AM
Couldn't believe it when the line didn't move till 4200. WTF Suzuki. :confused:
Guess mine was assembled at 4.45 on a Friday!
It will have been right when it was built. This is not a modification, it's an adjustment, things change - if they didn't adjustment wouldn't be needed.
aesmith
18-05-13, 09:13 AM
It will have been right when it was built. This is not a modification, it's an adjustment, things change - if they didn't adjustment wouldn't be needed.
I notice that the TPS is on the rear throttle, so any change in the linkage between the two is going to change the TPS setting. Such changes will come when the TB balance is adjusted, or by wear in the link. I wonder why they didn't put the sensor on the front TB.
Sid Squid
18-05-13, 01:42 PM
I notice that the TPS is on the rear throttle, so any change in the linkage between the two is going to change the TPS setting. Such changes will come when the TB balance is adjusted, or by wear in the link. I wonder why they didn't put the sensor on the front TB.
Both ends of the front throttle spindle are already occupied, one end has the cables and the other has the linkage to the rear throttle body, the rear spindle has the linkage on one end - the obvious spare spot is where it went.
It makes sense really - throttle balance is supposed to be periodically checked for adjustment, TPS is no different. Of course it must borne in mind that it is a dependent adjustment - changing other things changes TPS setting; throttle balance and importantly tickover speed.
If you were to read my previous posts in this thread, I describe my thoughts on the reasons why the adjustment changes in the earlier part of the bike's life, and then settles down somewhat.
Despite the apparent wonder some people have expressed for this adjustment, it's really nothing special - it's in the service schedule and, while perhaps a little fiddly, it's hardly a difficult job.
aesmith
18-05-13, 03:13 PM
Of course it must borne in mind that it is a dependent adjustment - changing other things changes TPS setting; throttle balance and importantly tickover speed.
I didn't realise that last factor. Need to reset mine anyway since I did it before balancing the carbs.
The manual that I've seen doesn't detail the fine-tuning of the TPS, setting the point where the line moves up. It just specifies to check that the line is central at tickover.
Just to clarify. Is this necessary for the K7+?
Was on my K8...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
TheRuffellator
20-05-13, 12:34 PM
Just bought the torx bits, if anyone else in my area wants to do this your welcome to borrow the bits :D
kevduncan
30-07-13, 07:07 PM
Done this tonight. Piece of cake. Got the torx bits (a whole set?!) from Screwfix for £5 which was decent.
My TPS (SL0) had a tippex mark over the frame, screw and sensor so obviously it's been played with.....or they come like that? Anyway, mine was about 3,500 to make the line move and I got it set at about 1500-1600 now.
Haven't been out on it yet but got a run planned at the weekend so will hopefully see the difference there.
K
Nobbylad
01-08-13, 08:14 AM
The 'tippex' is applied at the factory.
screamingnoob
23-08-13, 09:07 PM
so glad I found out about this, just did mine today and the fuel injection didn't kick in till about 4200 RPM got it down to about 1800 RPM and it is like a totally different bike thanks so much for posting this highly recommend doing this to your bike GLAD I DID :-)
i have had mine set at just off tickover and has been perfecto for the past 2 years. only think i can say is that i get much less engine braking but things are a lot smoother with almost a complete lack of throttle snatch.
Coderedpl
22-06-14, 04:09 PM
Thank you very the detailed write up.
I did this on my 2004 SV650 I picked up recently and it's a LOT smoother, took a bit over 30 minutes as when i tightened it would move, every little move affected it. Got it down to right about 1450-1500!
Think I might have ****ed up. Done a check and it was way off, took note of where the line was, cut slots in the heads, ran till warm, switched off and put in wire, press start and buzzzzzz, not the usual click of dead battery. Removed wire press start still buzzzzzz like electric shorting. What could of happened or am I panicking over dead battery?
Dead battery, thank god. Leaving until the weekend now.
After charging the battery it started fine. Drove a few miles and the bike has died. Could I have done damage as all I did originally was to note the settings when doing this the other night. Awaiting recovery. :(
Ha ha just put the radio on my phone , the song playing What have I done to deserve it.
Ok recovery guy said battery is not receiving a charge. Can only think I have cocked it up, say the wires did short, or I put in wrong holes, What would have I done? Please help.
blown a fuse? left a wire disconnected? Loose battery connection?
Thanks for reply but. No fuse good, no wire left out as none disconnected. Battery tight. All I did was put wire/tool in and checked readings. Now will not charge????
GLcosta
15-09-14, 01:44 AM
First of all thank you for this tutorial.
Secondly i have come here to share my super duper "home made" tool for those cheese bolts.
I had bought those security torx for my car a couple of years ago and if you can find something similar it makes this process rather easy.
Look at the pictures and you will understand that you use the "L" shape "thing" as a leaver to rotate the torx making things a lot easier since you dont have a lot of room to work. I hope this helps someone in the future. :)
http://s12.postimg.org/6kjsrexfx/TPS_Adjustment_Tool.jpg
Coderedpl
18-09-14, 10:17 PM
Question:
Should I RE-do the adjustment after changing spark-plugs? Bike has almost 20k miles and I figured ill do the spark plugs as I'm not sure the previous owner did.
aesmith
19-09-14, 07:36 AM
Question:
Should I RE-do the adjustment after changing spark-plugs? Bike has almost 20k miles and I figured ill do the spark plugs as I'm not sure the previous owner did.
The adjustment won't be affected by a change of plugs. Doesn't do any harm to check of course.
DaleJohns
19-09-14, 05:21 PM
Hey guys, new to my 650 and thought I'd try to smooth it out a little, got the security bolts off the TPS without cheesing them too badly - but when it came to adjusting it, the dash display shows "_c00" at idle and any attempt to bring it up to reading "-c00" causes the bike to cut out and refuse to start again. As suggested in some of the guides I tried increasing the idle speed a little and going from there but in order to stop the bike cutting out instantly the idle has to sit between 1500-1700 which is obviously not ideal.
I managed to restore the setting it was at before and it's running as it was before I touched it but can anyone shed some light
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