View Full Version : TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide
Coderedpl
20-09-14, 02:28 AM
The adjustment won't be affected by a change of plugs. Doesn't do any harm to check of course.
Cool, thanks!
Corny Gizmo
22-09-14, 06:30 AM
OMO,
checked mine last night and found it to be reacting at around 4200 RPM, the bike is only 6-7 Months old, is this something that goes out of spec over time or is it something that just hasnt been set correctly from factory?
Also, do any of the services cover adjustment of TPS? I find it hard to believe that we are supposed to do this ourselves.
I have not adjusted it yet as I want to get the proper tool so I don't kill the bolts :)
aesmith
22-09-14, 07:30 AM
checked mine last night and found it to be reacting at around 4200 RPM, the bike is only 6-7 Months old, is this something that goes out of spec over time or is it something that just hasnt been set correctly from factory?
Also, do any of the services cover adjustment of TPS? I find it hard to believe that we are supposed to do this ourselves.
The Suzuki service procedure just checks that the line is in the middle at idle, it doesn't check the threshold at which it moves up. I guess the same applies to the factory setup.
It will be prone to go out of spec with time since it's driven off the rear throttle body via a mechanical linkage. Will also change (I think) if the throttle bodies are balanced.
Corny Gizmo
22-09-14, 08:22 AM
Thanks for the info aesmith, I have got my 7.5K service on Friday so ill adjust the TPS after that incase they touch the throttle bodies etc.
they wont touch the TB's unless you specifically ask them to do a balance and even then nothing will be disturbed if they do. you can safely go ahead and set the TPS.
i have been testing out a new method over the past 2 years of setting the TPS just to make sure that no damage will occur. my new method is to set the TPS so the line just moves as you set it and when you tighten the bolt is settles in the middle. no turning the throttle to see what revs the TPS is kicking in at. this makes the TPS active the moment you turn the throttle and the result is complete lack of snatchyness but you get engine braking more along the lines of an inline 4 which makes for a very smooth bike.
Corny Gizmo
23-09-14, 07:53 AM
It sounds exactly what I was thinking Bibio, as it moves anyway when tightening up I planned to do exactly what you detailed above :) e.g over adjust to account for movement when tightening.
I'm excited to see if this reduces engine brake as much as you say, as I do a lot of two up riding (every day) having to iron the snatchyness and engine braking out with the clutch is getting tiresome :)
If I get chance tonight I'm doing it, I shall report back
Soapysoap
23-09-14, 11:11 AM
Just did this today after eventually finding my Dealer Mode plug (Thanks Corny).
Bike is a 2013 model and I thought it was my lack of finesse that made the bike "jerky". Mini roundabouts required constant slipping of the clutch.
After a ride out on my mates GSXR600 I found it so much easier to ride (even though I felt like a circus elephant on a tricycle). So my choices were to see if my SV could be made better or look at getting a different bike when I can afford it.
Followed the instructions and found warmed up and at idle it was on the bottom bar then swiftly moved to the middle bar about 1400rpm then went to the top bar at around 4500rpm. :-(
Cracked off the tps torx screw then tapped the sensor anticlockwise. Managed to get to go down in about 700rpm increments. Tightened back up bar was then at the top at idle. Tapped back the other way and got the bar to move about 1350 rpm (idle at 1250). Boxed everything up and went out for a ride.
\Just got back and.......what a difference. Like people have said it seems a lot smoother. No slipping of clutch required. I also feel as though the engine braking isn't so severe. Really transformed the bike for me.
Great thread...Thanks
rickylp
23-09-14, 07:35 PM
Stupid question but after loosening off the top torx screw is it then possible to just loosen the bottom just enough to be able to gently tap the top around in tiny movements rather than have it really loose and then have it moving too much?? sorry if this a dumbass question but i dont know the answer???
Stupid question but after loosening off the top torx screw is it then possible to just loosen the bottom just enough to be able to gently tap the top around in tiny movements rather than have it really loose and then have it moving too much?? sorry if this a dumbass question but i dont know the answer???
that's exactly what you want to do.
rickylp
23-09-14, 07:50 PM
Perfecto! cheers Bibio, gonna give it a go tomorrow i think. Was riding today and consciously looking at the rev counter as i rolled on the gas to see when it was reacting and i reckon its about 3500-4000rpm!
Came across this by chance and decided to have a go on sv06 I've had since new. Idle was pretty close and when I stuck the paper clip in the slot the bar was already at the top. A clockwise tap perceivable but less than 1mm put the bar in the middle. It moved to the top just under 1500rpm so all good. Haven't been out on it yet but not expecting any change. Thanks for the easy to follow guide. Bit of luck that I happened to have a t25 screwdriver head!
Corny Gizmo
06-10-14, 08:07 AM
Finally got round to doing this adjustment, bit of helpful info for all K7+ owners...
- The TPS is only held on by one screw
- The Idle screw is non existant, stop looking for it :) The idle is adjusted automatically
I found mine to be moving the line at around 4200 RPM, I have heard (on the svrider forum) that they are set to 3500 from factory to pass emissions, I dont know if this is true.
Did the adjustment down to around 1800 RPM, went for a ride, the change isnt massive but its noticeable. I noticed the smoother acceleration more than the small decrease in engine braking. One thing I'm very happy about is the fact that when I used to go down a bumpy road I would put more revs on the bike as my wrist moved ever so slightly, this problem is now resolved and the bike is a lot more predictable.
you have to get it set under 1800 to make a difference. as i have said set it so its just off throttle at around 1300 and all will be well.
Corny Gizmo
06-10-14, 02:56 PM
I plan too mate but it took me 15 mins to do it yesterday and I felt a bit sorry for the neighbours, ill have another go next weekend :)
Stepmg8255
27-10-14, 08:23 AM
I managed to adjust the TPS yesterday without any problems. Anyone that has any concerns about doing this, rest assured it is very easy to do. I have no motorbike knowledge or a mechanical bone in my body!!!
I had purchased replacement screws for the 'cheese bolts' but did not require them. Purchased a T25 security torx screwdriver and that did the trick, was tricky getting it into the bottom bolt and it wasn't seated properly but no problems encountered.
The most difficult part is making tiny adjustments to the TPS and then deciding when to quit once your happy with the rpm.
Corny Gizmo
27-10-14, 08:50 AM
To everyone who has done this on a K7+: Have you had any issues of low idle when slowing down (I.E clutch in, in gear) Mine bearly ticks over at 1000 sometimes but is fine in neutral (I suspect its to do with the different map thats active when the clutch is pulled in.)
Might re-do my adjustment and see if I can get it to idle higher.
K7+ SV650 has twin spark e.g. 2 spark plugs per cylinder = 4 spark plugs in total anything other that this you follow post #2 in this thread. (** see bottom part of post)
twin spark SV650 owners are slightly different in that the bike has an auto idle function and the TPS only has one bolt but method is the same otherwise.
problems twin spark owners might encounter.
if the TPS is out of range the bike might idle low so check your line position again.
make sure that the bike is at working temp when setting the TPS.
make sure that no hoses have come loose or you have trapped the fuel hose or any other hoses.
sit on bike and start it up, pull clutch in and select first gear, while in gear and clutch is in put the sidestand down. does the bike cut out? if yes then fine, if no then you have a broken sidestand switch.
sit on bike with gear in neutral and dont pull clutch in then try and start bike. does the bike start? if yes then you have a broken or miss adjusted clutch switch, if no then fine.
** when making the adjustment the line must be just off top position to middle. how i do it is when bike is working temp i set the line to just moving to the top at idle then i tighten the bolt so the line just moves to middle when bolt is tightened. doing this makes the TPS set at just on throttle, to check turn throttle and the line will move to the top straight away but when you let the throttle go the line returns to the middle.
i have been using the above method for 20,000 miles and have had no problems, bike has very smooth throttle action and much easier to ride.
(((( do not under any circumstances try and adjust the top sensor or your in trouble ))))
(((( do not under any circumstances mess with the screws that control the linkages ))))
(((( you cant balance the throttle bodies on the twin spark SV650 without the special diagnostics tool as you have to lock the auto idle to adjust the vacuum ))))
My K8 idles (once warm) at around 1500 rpm... it feels a little fast, but not sure if it's worth doing anything about? From my understanding of this thread, my only option is to calibrate TPS to adjust idle? Is this right? Thanks in advance...
AZ Pete
20-04-15, 05:48 PM
If like my K6 there should be an idle adjust screw on the left side of the bike. This is indipendant of the TPS adjustment.
on a K8 you cant do anything about the idle as its auto. even to balance the TB's you need a special diagnostic tool. if a twin spark K7> is ticking over fast then something is up. as far as i know adjusting the TPS does not raise the idle speed unless its a single spark K7<
Thanks Bibio. I'll keep an eye on it.
Pete there's no idle screw on my bike, unlike the PDF manual.
Corny Gizmo
21-04-15, 02:51 PM
Willf,Bibio I have a 2014 and when I adjusted the TPS I found my idle adjusted itself.
I cant remember what made it go up or down but it definitely did, I knocked the TPS too far one way and the bike conked out and wouldnt restart till I moved it the opposite way.
Im thinking of having another look myself as my idle is too low.
sputnik
21-04-15, 04:05 PM
I'm with Bibio on this one. My understanding was that the later pointies did not have adjustable idle as it is set electronically. Adjusting the TPS won't adjust the idle (like a normal idle adjustment screw does) but may have knock on effects on the idle. Poor adjustment or a failing TPS may cause the ECU to... in fact never mind typing my own ham-fisted explanation, here is something copied off google which kind of sums it up...
Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/ECU) to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Idle_Air_Control_Valve) exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/ECU) to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/ECU) to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/ECU) to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
Thanks guys... Sometimes when stopped at the lights after a run it idles at 1500 rpm, which I know isn't miles away from 1300+/-100, but you notice it. I've never been under the tank, but maybe work my way towards TPS eventually :)
yokohama
10-05-15, 06:22 PM
I finally got around to doing this on mine today after having a good read of this thread. Massive thanks to all the contributors; all the advice in here makes it so much easier.
It only took me 45 minutes or so and a third of that was trying to find and activate the white dealer mode connector, which was hidden away very awkwardly under a strut right between the 2 seats and was a real pig to get to.
The line was moving to the top at just over 4000 rpm so I loosened the bolts and slowly tapped the sensor to bring the activation point down. I didn't have any trouble with the cheesy bolts although the bottom one was hard to get to. i put the torx bolt onto a 1/4 inch adapter and put that on the shorter length of a large allen key. It took me a few attempts as every time I re-tightened the sensor, the activation point went back up again. Finally, I used someone's tip of bringing the activation point down to idle and hoping that tightening up would set it correctly. Couldn't get it exact but compromised at 1700.
It did raise my idle to 1500 for some reason but that was easy to bring down.
Wow! What a difference. It's so much smoother, not only at the lower revs but also when accelerating through all the gears. Much less slipping the clutch at low speeds in first and second. I don't know if it's getting used to the change but that extra smoothness had the bike going beyond 30 and 40 limits almost without me noticing. Gonna have to be careful!
funkydruid
30-05-15, 01:54 PM
To everyone who has done this on a K7+: Have you had any issues of low idle when slowing down (I.E clutch in, in gear) Mine bearly ticks over at 1000 sometimes but is fine in neutral (I suspect its to do with the different map thats active when the clutch is pulled in.)
Might re-do my adjustment and see if I can get it to idle higher.
I have a 2010 model that I have bought recently and am having a problem with the bike stalling when I am changing down through the gears. If I have the clutch in too long, the revs dropand I can hear the fuel pump cut out and the bike stalls, recovery is fairly easy, either a clutch start while I'm moving, or press the starter.
I think my bike will start in neutral without the need to pull in the clutch lever. The bike has after market levers.... I will check this tomorrow.
If anyone can offer ideas, I'd love to hear them.
Cheers
I've just used the initial post, some 11 years later, on my son's 04 and it has vastly improved the snatchy throttle - still is a bit on or off, but much better. That is one of the clearest and easiest instructions I've come across, so thanks to this forum:)
The line on the dash didn't move below 3500 rpm !
I have a 2003 SV650s. I did this adjustment yesterday and I already I can feel a huge difference. The line was moving at 3,500 . Was able to reduce it to about 1600-1700 and the bike is noticable smoother and engine braking is less. On the other hand though, I noticed that my bike idles just slight above 1000 when i start it in the morning but after riding for a while, it idles around 1500. I've tried to adjust the idle but it prooving to be too difficult to set it at 1200-1300 so I'm just going to leave it as it is.
I have a 2003 SV650s. I did this adjustment yesterday and I already I can feel a huge difference. The line was moving at 3,500 . Was able to reduce it to about 1600-1700 and the bike is noticable smoother and engine braking is less. On the other hand though, I noticed that my bike idles just slight above 1000 when i start it in the morning but after riding for a while, it idles around 1500. I've tried to adjust the idle but it prooving to be too difficult to set it at 1200-1300 so I'm just going to leave it as it is.
My K3 does this too. As far as I have read, it's the throttle bodies being out of sync - however I haven't got round to fixing it yet so can't confirm.
mnikodemus
23-06-15, 05:03 PM
For anybody that is doing this, I found that a paper clip works very well to bridge the two terminals to put the bike in dealer mode. I used a little bit of sand paper to remove the surface coating for better contact, and it worked great.
My bike also had the security torx screws on the TPS, they confused me at first (with the pole in the center). Luckily I could borrow a set from a mechanic at work.
Nutsinatin
12-07-15, 12:29 PM
Well I've finally had a go at this on my K9 today, it's fantastic! I lubed and adjusted my throttle cables before making this adjustment (managed to get it to just over 1400 rpm) and that snatch opening the throttle I put down to being a twin is gone, it's beautiful. I thought I'd just add some pictures of the TPS sensor on the K9 for anyone looking for it, with just the one screw it's dead easy to adjust. http://i.imgur.com/16bMNPV.jpg
I also got my torx bits from here (http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Faithfull%20Faisbt25%205023969272894%20Security%20 Bits%20T25%2025Mm%201%204In%20Drive%20Pack%20Of%20 3) for £2.73 with free postage, don't know why they sell them as a pack of three but for that price who cares!
Finnmark
20-07-15, 12:40 AM
I just did this adjustment on my new-to-me '07 SV and it was easy and worked beautifully. My throttle is now very linear and easy to modulate.
THANKS!!!
Nectar90
07-08-15, 03:48 AM
Just finished adjusting my 2007 SV650. I think I spent more time reading this thread than it took to make the adjustment. I was idling around 1250-1300 rpms and was able to get things set (for the high bar) around 1500 rpms.
I'm really not mechanically inclined which pays tribute to the great instructions. Thanks to coombest and everyone else's input. I've only had it out for a quick 2 minute ride so I'm looking forward to taking it for a longer ride to feel the results.
AlexAdams
19-09-15, 06:41 PM
My recently acquired SK6 with 1900 miles needs the TPS adjusting, the line is jumping around 3000rpm, the bike felt jerky the throttle whilst doing a U-turn on the test ride so I'm looking forward to a smoother ride.
Can anyone tell me the injection type before I start searching, I assume it's alpha N,TPS and air temp sensors only?
Craig380
20-09-15, 05:45 PM
Can anyone tell me the injection type before I start searching, I assume it's alpha N,TPS and air temp sensors only?
Yes, there's no lambda / oxygen sensor in the exhaust on the K6 and earlier machines. Not sure about the K7s etc as they got twin-plug heads and some other changes.
AlexAdams
21-09-15, 11:01 AM
Thanks for response. Confirmation of Alpha-N linked below as well:
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34230
MAP (manifold pressure) / TPS (Throttle Position) / IAT (Intake Air temp) / CPS (Crank position & speed) sensors are used for injection control.
Given the above I'm surprised the bikes run at all with the TPS being out from factory or being corrected after running out.
SK7 onwards runs closed loop with lambda feedback, I don't know how different the system is or if the earlier system is in fact lambda compatible (which wouldn't be surprising if it was).
Craig380
21-09-15, 01:05 PM
Given the above I'm surprised the bikes run at all with the TPS being out from factory or being corrected after running out.
I guess the TPS being out of whack just means that throttle response and low-rpm running isn't ideal .... the ECU will see the manifold pressure change as the throttle butterflies start to open, and will add fuel accordingly, but the fuel/air ratio won't be quite as it should be, because the ECU's not getting input from the TPS ....
I have done mine today, I am very pleased with the result. Much less jerky! I got used to using the clutch, so now I have to get rid of that habit...
It was set up at about 3500 rpm and I managed to get it down to 1500, so there is quite obvious difference.
oh, I also used insulated paper clip which works great as it snaps in perfectly
sounded exactly like my adjustment. 3500 rpm and the insulated paper clip.
I Should've done this months ago. Uturns and roundabouts are so much smoother now.
it took me a good 30 minutes before i realised i didn't have a idle adjustment screw on my K6 though.
thanks for the write up, OP!
edit: what would happen if i set the cross over point at (or under) idle? instead of just above idle?
fuel wastage?
Corny Gizmo
23-11-15, 11:20 AM
Yes, it would run rich and probably bog down when you give it some from idle.
I carried out this adjustment today, mine was moving at around 3500 and I've set it at around 1400ish. The only thing I noticed was that it didn't start so easily after, whether that was because it was warm or as a result of the adjustment or even just coincidence?
Took longer to get up to temperature than it did to do the adjustment, not tried it out yet but as I've only ridden it the15 miles back from where I bought it I haven't got much to compare it to. I did notice it was a bit snatchy though. Bring on dry weather
remember! on single spark engines you need to adjust the tick over while doing the adjustment to keep it at around 1300rpm. on twin spark you just adjust and the auto idle sorts itself out.
you wont feel the benefit of the TPS adjustment in dry or normal riding but you will feel the difference when doing slow manoeuvres and slight throttle control in wet/slippy conditions.
the secret is in the name 'Throttle Position Sensor', the closer you can get the adjustment to the on/off throttle position the better and smoother the engine behaves.
my reckoning as to why it works is that there are two maps in the ECU, one is for idle/partial throttle and the other is for medium/full throttle position which are dependant on the angle of the TPS. the problem is that the partial and medium throttle position is around the slow speed manoeuvre rev range so you are always going between the two maps. moving the angle of the TPS lower tells the ECU that you are using the med/full map with less throttle movement.
That's ok Bibio, mine is a twin spark. I got it very close to the line moving to the upper level as the revs lifted above idle. It's such a simple task would it pay to re-check a few hundred miles later and then a few times a year?
Are you making your gizmos again?
AlexAdams
23-01-16, 07:17 PM
I've heard the SV has a very basic injection system but I can't any information about it. For example the ECU in my '88 325i has just three maps selected by the TPS, (idle / off idle / WOT > 80% throttle open) then relies on air flow (MAP sensor on the SV) for fuel & timing during the off idle map. Ironically the switchable auto ECU for the E30 had a very fine TPS which was attached to the bottom of the engine ECU TPS. So fine it fact that it is preferred for accurate mapping over TPS's from vehicles more than 20 years newer, so it's not like it wasn't possible!!!!
Essentially (in a production vehicle made down to a price) increased ECU complexity is only required to achieve emission standards and as the emission requirements of bikes were lower during the bulk of the SV's production so a complex ECU was not required. I'd be very surprised to find a 3d map in there!!!
Apologies I digress.
Are you making your gizmos again?
not at the moment. i have farrrr toooo much going on.
That's ok, at the moment I've spent far too much��
damienga15de
25-01-16, 01:41 PM
So I adjusted my tps yesterday. It was set at 4700 rpm I got it down to about 1500, but the tps is turned more clockwise than it was. All was fine running very smooth but then I seemed to lose a cylinder , haven't had time to go back at it but I'm guessing I need to balance the throttle bodies.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rich Clarke
28-01-16, 10:55 PM
Admin: This ought to be a sticky thread!
Rich
crazy_sailo5878
30-01-16, 05:05 PM
Did mine the other day. It took 10 minutes and has made riding at slow speed (round mini roundabouts etc) so much easier. Its currently set to 1500 rpm but I kinda miss the engine braking.
So I have a couple of questions - Is this mod just to hide a lack of skill at slow speed (been riding for a massive 4 months!!) and has anyone set theirs slightly higher as a compromise between low speed control and engine braking or was the Suzuki original setting the designed compromise?
damienga15de
30-01-16, 07:38 PM
My bikes much smoother now I finally got it out, firing on both cylinders again. Not as much engine braking but it's much easier to ride at low speeds. New chain and sprockets Monday should see it right
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Will be doing this on my 07 plate over next few days as iv noticed its jerky at low revs
AlexAdams
02-04-16, 04:16 PM
Will be doing this on my 07 plate over next few days as iv noticed its jerky at low revs
If you can it's best to balance your throttle bodies before adjusting the TPS and setting the idle.
I did mine a few months ago but I think I need to set it just a bit lower.
druegeme
02-05-16, 07:06 PM
Still new to the SV, I was having a hard time managing the bike at low revs. Pillion rider complained and helmets clacked. Also I found engine braking a bit over-the-top. Especially riding downhill on a small twisty mountain back road at low speed was pretty awful.
Saturday night I decided to do the TPS adjustment. Got it done pretty quick thanks to the excellent information in this thread. Wow, what a difference it made. NOW we are talking- this is how I expect a bike to behave.
650,000 thanks to coombest who started this thread!
----
A couple of notes and thoughts-
Mine's ’07 with 2800 miles on it. So we’re talking auto idle adjustment and only one screw on top of TPS.
After reading the entire thread I noted a couple of things to look out for:
1- The right torx bit (#25 security with hole in the middle and six teeth) is a must
2- Engine needs to be warmed up properly
3- Plan for tiny tiny adjustments
4- Shoot for ‘-‘ going from middle to up as soon as possible over idle, ideally when just touching the throttle
Taking care of 1 and 2 simultaneously I rode to local hardware store and picked up a set of torx security bits for ten bucks. Back home, before even taking the panels off and popping the tank, I plugged in the ‘dealer mode tool’ (fabricated of paper clip and duct tape for isolation) and started it back up. ‘-‘ in middle at idle, as it should be. Going up somewhere between 3000-4000, but more on the 4000 side. Bingo- time to get to work!
Panels and seat off, tank up, located TPS, as expected only one screw on top. Nicely marked from factory with white paint. Screw came loose very easily. Loosened two turns left. Keeping in mind (3), very carefully turned the TPS about a millimeter left and slightly tightened the screw one turn. This was with the engine off but I just wanted check things out first.
Started it up, idling fine, ‘-‘ still in middle. Touched the throttle, and ‘-‘ moves up just over 1450 or so. Right on the money! Carefully tightened the screw, half a turn more than what it was, while carefully holding TPS in place with left hand. Thumbed it once more, and yes, right there the C-line moves up as soon as I touch the gas. Awesome. Everything back together in less than 15 minutes.
Which brings me to the last point. ‘Why is this so, and is it an adjustment or a mod?’, as so many have asked. The prevalent theory seems to be that they actually set it correctly at the factory but it just runs out of adjustment and needs to be re-adjusted.
I have a hard time believing that, given that most people see the FI switching maps at 3-4k.
Also, looking at the procedure in Suzi maintenance manual, it only asks for the ‘-‘ to be in middle at idle but not checking when it actually moves up. So by the official procedure my bike (and many others) would actually check out correctly prior to the adjustment. I therefore assume that's how they set it in the factory.
Someone suggested this might be intentional in order to pass emission requirements. That seems to make more sense. Thinking of the VW TDI deal here in the US, manufacturers seem to get more or less creative, with Suzuki apparently staying on the lawful side and leaving it up to owner's discretion to make adjustments.
In any case, if you haven’t done this yet I would highly recommend that you get this done. Chances are very good that 20 minutes of your time greatly improve the bike.
Greetings from San Jose California.
Sentinel
03-05-16, 05:53 AM
I'm looking forward to doing this. I checked mine, and it doesn't move to the top until the revs go over 2500 RPM. I'm going to sync the throttle bodies first.
Done this this afternoon, nearly lost my rag and set light to the bike to be honest.
Managed it in the end though, only took 1 maybe 2mm of movement to bring it down from 3k rpm to 1.5k.
Makes all the difference on slow maneuvers
Paulwind
25-05-16, 06:34 PM
Finally did mine today. What a difference! As long as you have the t25 torx bit and a 1/4 inch drive it's quite easy. Took me about half an hour, but I got lucky and only made two movements anti clock wise to get it down from 4000 to 1500. Also adjusted throttle cables and tickover before doing this. So much smoother low revs, and through the gears in traffic - feels like a different engine. Thank you so much Coombest for such a great walk-through.
Cheers
Paulwind
danp203
27-08-16, 04:36 AM
I just had to give my gratitude to OP, the throttle touchiness was so bad on my bike that I was thinking of selling it and getting something else, figuring that's just how the bike is. Googled it, found this thread, did the adjustment and it's smooth as silk now! Actually feels safe to ride and has increased my confidence tenfold on it! Thanks OP!
Markylemin
26-09-16, 06:48 PM
I had a go adjusting my 2003 pointy today. Much smoother at low revs , especially (as has been said by others) mini roundabouts.
Mine was not cutting in until just over 4k but managed to get it down to about 1700 without causing idle lumpiness.
Huge thanks to the OP. Let's hope my Mrs notices an improvement when on the back.
bristolboy
22-10-16, 08:42 AM
i cant seem to get mine below 3000 was initially 4200 is, i cant seem to move the sensor anymore in the direction i want to go? im on a K8, am i doing something wrong?
bristolboy
22-10-16, 10:26 AM
Mine didn't seem sensitive when moving through tps at all to be honest. Really weird
i cant seem to get mine below 3000 was initially 4200 is, i cant seem to move the sensor anymore in the direction i want to go? im on a K8, am i doing something wrong?
which censor were you adjusting top or bottom?
bristolboy
22-10-16, 12:13 PM
There was only 1 screw to loosen on it and it kinda went more up and down rather clockwise/anticlockwise I didn't see anything else I that looked similar to what I saw in this guide . Am I being a complete idiot and adjusting the wrong thing ?
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bristolboy
22-10-16, 12:23 PM
Just looked again and it was the top one to the left, I've seen another post and realise it was the wrong one !
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lets get it more clear. did the screw have a spring attached or was it a torx bolt?
bristolboy
22-10-16, 12:46 PM
No not the spring on the right hand side of the bike, I'm on theBay left hand side but there are 2 sensors with the torx screws, one up towards the air filter and one on an angle below it to the right. It seems to be doing what I intended now anyway got it to about 1600 thankfully, what is the other sensor for ?
the top sensor is the STPS and if you messed with that you will need to re-set it using a multimeter. the buzz buzz you hear when you turn the ignition on is the STPS setting itself so if the sensor is out it wont set properly, this could also throw a fault code to the ECU.
bristolboy
22-10-16, 01:19 PM
Just been for a spin it seems fine, there were white markers on it so lined it back up ( I hope ) didn't see any other fault codes come up or anything,
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bristolboy
22-10-16, 01:25 PM
I'm paranoid now! If there was a fault would I know straight away and be obvious ?
Craig380
22-10-16, 06:19 PM
If you didn't get a fault code then it should be fine - as you mentioned, you were able to line the sensor back up close enough using the paint lines. No fault code means the ECU is happy with the position readings from the sensor.
bristolboy
23-10-16, 01:22 PM
Yeah it's fine went out for an hour today . Wow what a difference that adjustment makes ! Loving it
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I must be the only person that didn't notice any massive difference even though I brought it down from nearly 4k revs.
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sloth31
11-11-16, 02:53 PM
Just did this to mine. Such a huge difference. This seems to have stopped the bike stalling when shifting from 6th to first gear. So much smoother at low rpm
Thanks for the guide !
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This seems to have stopped the bike stalling when shifting from 6th to first gear.
Gotta confess I neglected to perform that particular test :smt043
Laurencce p
11-11-16, 06:19 PM
Biggest thing I noticed was when gearing down there is less chance of someone running into the back of me as the engine braking isn't so severe.
taylor192
23-05-17, 01:49 AM
Adjusted mine today, have a question:
What does the line at the bottom position mean? In the DIY the line starts in the middle, mine started at the bottom.
No amount of adjusting the TPS and/or idle would allow the bike to idle properly at 1300 with the line in the middle. I could get it to idle at 1300 yet it'd sound like a cylinder was misfiring.
I gave up and focused on getting a good idle, then the best I could do was the bar to jump to the middle at 2k and top at 4K.
Also while moving the TPS sometimes the RPMs would suddenly just shoot up to 6K and stay there. I'd have to kill the ignition to stop it. I'm only moving the TPS a fraction of a millimeter, not sure where I am going wrong.
Mine is a 2006 California model if that makes a difference...
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Adjusted mine today, have a question:
What does the line at the bottom position mean? In the DIY the line starts in the middle, mine started at the bottom.
No amount of adjusting the TPS and/or idle would allow the bike to idle properly at 1300 with the line in the middle. I could get it to idle at 1300 yet it'd **sound like a cylinder was misfiring**.
I gave up and focused on getting a good idle, then the best I could do was the bar to jump to the middle at 2k and top at 4K.
Also while moving the TPS **sometimes the RPMs would suddenly just shoot up to 6K and stay there**. I'd have to kill the ignition to stop it. I'm only moving the TPS a fraction of a millimeter, not sure where I am going wrong.
Mine is a 2006 California model if that makes a difference...
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change the plugs. sounds like the bike is cutting in and out on a cylinder. the line staying a the bottom is an indication that your only firing on one cylinder.
suddenly shooting up to 6k would to me say a loose connecting in the ignition system like a loose plug cap or a plug that is breaking down or a coil is on its way out.
danodafox
17-08-17, 08:01 AM
Hello,
Does anyone know why i cant see the images?? Says update account to enable 3rd party hosting?
Chris_SVS
17-08-17, 08:10 AM
Photobucket stopped people sharing pics to 3rd party sites without a premium membership.
The decision has broken ebay, amazon and many other sites.
sputnik
17-08-17, 09:54 AM
The pictures disappeared quite a while ago. Just follow the written instructions and you'll be fine. Google SV650 tps - in images there are a couple of pics of what are looking for if you don't know what it looks like.
Just be aware that depending on what year your bike is (post 2007?) you may only have a single screw securing the sensor. And if you have a later model you can ignore the references to the idle adjustment.
danodafox
17-08-17, 11:33 AM
thanks for response,
Ive been looking all day and cant find a place that explains it well. (Im also an absolute noob)
buts thanks anyway ill keep looking!
danodafox
17-08-17, 11:40 AM
oh and mine is a 2006 sv650s
done this to a members bike the other week there and could not remember which pins on the plug to use as photofukit has removed the image so we had to go crawling the net. insert the wire with the ignition OFF.
http://www.sv650.org/gallery/tps/tps_connector_wire_in.jpg
once the wire is in place turn the ignition on and start the bike and let it warm up. look at the clocks and where the temp usually is should now show -00
loosen the bolt/s enough on the BOTTOM sensor so the TPS is still tight'ish but able to move.
move the TPS back fourth so the line 'just' moves to the bottom like _00. you need to adjust the idle screw to keep the revs steady on pre K7 bikes. wait 10s or so then slowly nudge the TPS till the line 'just' moves back in the middle -00 then 'nip up' one of the bolts. you might need to keep adjusting the tickover screw as you make adjustments to the TPS.
test the rpm at which the line moves to the top by turning the throttle. the line should move to the top at around just off idle. basically you want the line to move as the slack is taken up on the cables of the throttle and the throttle starts to turn about 1mm or the revs are a gnats hair off idle.
once done tighten bolt/s then check again to make sure the line has not moved and that the throttle position is the same then check again turning the bike bars from side to side to make sure that again the line does not move.
enjoy :-)
top tip: use the handle end of a screwdriver to 'tap' the TPS bolt lug to move it tiny amounts. also if you put a bit of thick card between the throttle grip and the housing it makes the throttle less sensitive and can keep the revs at a certain position, remove the card once done.
sputnik
17-08-17, 12:32 PM
Doubt you'll find a better description than the one on the first page of this thread although a few people have added bits and bobs over the years.
BTW, I found a paper clip, cut to make a single 'U' shape with some tape over the curve of the U made a perfect dealer mode tool as it has a bit of spring to keep it in place.
danodafox
17-08-17, 12:58 PM
Perfect, Thanks very much for your time. as soon as i get a chance i will try it. appreciate the help!
I have looked but can't find this connector on my 08. Only saw a white four connector which didn't bring up dealer mode.
corkzak
29-01-18, 07:00 PM
Looking for someone in Norwich who can replace throttle body
CatchEmAll95
10-11-20, 03:40 PM
Finally got around to studying and following these ancient texts. Made a big difference and was really easy to do. It did surprise me how little you have to move the sensor to affect the reading though.
Adam Ef
10-11-20, 03:50 PM
Almost a tiny tap with a tack hammer rather than undoing it and moving it. Really really easy to overdo it.
Hi guys. I'm new to this forum.
I went to give this a try yesterday and when I went to do the adjustment, my line on the dash was at the bottom I stead of in the middle.
Do I adjust the Throttle position sensor so the line comes to the middle and then go from there?
My bike is a SV650s 2010
Thanks!
Ive just done mine and first got it to the middle position then gradually increased the revs to see when the line moves to the top. To ensure the bike rides more smoothly this should occur soon after starting to open the throttle say before reaching 2000rpm. Its a bit fiddly but eventually you can get it right and the sensor screws tight...
The rumour is that the injection starts to add more fuel when the line moves to the top position but I must admit Ive never read what it means when the bar is in the lowest position!
Adam Ef
29-08-21, 07:30 PM
I found that doing up the screw threw off the setting. So I left it fairly tight and tapped it (lightly) with a tack hammer to set it.
I should add that the line being at the bottom not the middle was, just how it was set. I haven't touched it yet as I wanted to check that the process I'm going to do, is correct.
So slightly adjust the sensor so the lines in the middle and then go from there?
The free to download Suzuki workshop manual just says make sure its in the mid position as soon as you put it in dealer mode and turn on the ignition. It makes no mention of any further adjustment....
Also I'm assuming on a 2010 SV650s there isn't any idle adjustment screw like on older models? That's my final question and then I'm ready to tackle this tomorrow.
i've done this a few times now and i have discovered that you dont even need the bike running. its a Throttle Position Sensor.
get the line in the middle.
turn the throttle to take up the slack in the cable.
turn the throttle so the line moves with the slightest turn of the throttle.. or turn the sensor till it just moves the line upwards then back off a hair. check by turning the throttle that the line moves up just as the throttle is turned.
if you want to do it with the engine running then go ahead. your looking for the line moving upwards with the slightest of revs. remember to turn the bars side to side after making the adjustment to check its still ok.
the only downside of this adjustment is that there is a lot less engine braking.
if the line is in the middle your pretty much good to go but a small tweak will make a difference at things like roundabouts etc.etc.
EssEllTwo
24-01-22, 10:19 PM
the only downside of this adjustment is that there is a lot less engine braking.
if the line is in the middle your pretty much good to go but a small tweak will make a difference at things like roundabouts etc.etc.
Downside? Sounds like an upside to me! I'm finding the mad engine braking and lumpiness at low revs a real PITA, especially on roundabouts like you mention. Will be giving this a check as soon as.
DarrenSV650S
25-01-22, 06:43 PM
You'll grow to love that engine braking. Immensly useful to control and adjust your speed through corners. It'll make you much more stable on the throttle too.
Lumpiness at low revs is always a PITA though :p
EssEllTwo
19-03-22, 06:11 PM
Finally got round to doing this today. Wow! Night. And. Day. The engine braking is still there to some degree but the horrible snatchiness while trying to negotiate slow speed corners has completely gone. I took the bike for a spin after setting and even just coming up to the first junction it was noticeable. I then took it to the small roundabout where it first tried to pitch me off due to the jerkiness, smooth as silk around it.
When I first check the setting, the line was not moving until 3500rpm. I managed to get it around the 1450 mark. One thing I noticed is my SL2 had only one screw on the TPS body. It was easy enough to loosen (had the right security Torx bit and a 3/8 ratchet), no french cheese on this one.
Big thanks to the forum and this thread for getting my confidence on the bike, I can now fling it round corners where before I was feather the clutch and throttle like made and fearing tipping myself off. I'm declaring undying love to the SV just yet though, as gorgeous as she looks - the suspension needs sorting first. K Tech springs are ready to go, then I'll decide on whether to buy a new shock (pretty much sure I will but one step at a time).
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