TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide [Archive] - SV650.org

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coombest

04-07-04, 09:45 PM

Well, here it is - the long awaited pictorial of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment .

Q: What does it do??

A: Basically, Fuel injected Suzukis have a sensor that senses what revs the engine is at and then tells the fuel injection and engine management systems to alter (basically to start squirting more fuel into the cylinders). MOST bikes are set wrongly and this causes the bike to be jerky at slow speeds (due to the fact that there's not enough fuel getting into the engine & then all of a sudden the fuel starts pumping in faster but by then it's a bit late!! This adjustment rectifies the problem!

coombest

04-07-04, 09:46 PM

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment
Step-By–Step Guide

**Before undertaking this modification, I strongly recommend that you read the instructions through from start to finish & have them to hand during the process**

You will need:

A length of fairly thin wire (multi-core like the stuff you get on the end of cheap jap speakers is what I found worked best)
A Size 25 Security Torx bit (available here (http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/search/SearchDisplay.jsp?3264951528=3264951528&cacheID=ukie), product number 285-9488)

1: You will need to make your ‘dealer mode tool’…

Simply take a piece of wire about 3 inches long and strip back about 8mm of the insulating sheath (twist the cores together on multi-core cable). Snip off the last 2-3mm with a pair of scissors or a wire cutter to leave a clean end.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_dealer_mode_wire.jpg

2: Undo the side panels under the saddle…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/Undo_side_panels.jpg

And remove the saddle…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/Undo_seat.jpg

3: Undo the tank retaining bolts…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/Unscrew_Tank.jpg

Lift the tank & prop up with the tank prop (surprisingly!!)

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/Tank_UP.jpg

4: Run the engine until at it’s normal operating temperature (most are around 85-90 degrees – I plump for 86!!)

5: Check & adjust your idle speed… It should be about 1200rpm.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/low_idle.jpg

6: If (as above) the idle is too low, locate the idle adjust screw – on the left hand side of the bike in one of the triangle shapes in the chassis and adjust. Turn clockwise to raise the idle speed and anti-clockwise to lower it… Go in small movements and ‘blip’ the throttle after each adjustment and allow it to settle before trusting what the rev counter says!

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/Idle_adjust.jpg

7: Undo & remove the pillion seat.

8: Locate the Dealer Mode Activation Connector
If you look into the tail unit from behind, on the left hand side you should see a bunch of a few wires & connectors behind a bit of plastic protruding from the undertray.
Follow this bit of plastic down towards the rider’s saddle and you should find another connector. It’s rectangular, white plastic with 6 holes for connectors in and only 4 of them used. It also has a black rubberised cover on it.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_connector_HERE_copy.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_connector.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_connector_wire_out.jpg

9: Turn off your ignition and put your ‘dealer mode tool’ in the two terminals that are next to each other.

**WARNING**
Do NOT short out the wire onto the chassis or any other part of the bike. Do NOT connect either of the other two terminals to anything.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_connector_wire_in.jpg

10: With the ‘tool’ still in the connector turn on your ignition. The temperature display should have disappeared and now you will see a little line (like a minus sign), the letter c followed by two zeros. If you have any other numbers shown in this display, see here (http://www.tl1000.com/faq/fi_codes.htm) to diagnose your bike’s fault (it’s the dealer diagnostic display!)

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_dealer_mode.jpg

11: SLOWLY turn your throttle while looking at the little line on the dash… It [I]should[I] move from the middle of the zeros to the top at about 1450rpm. I will bet money on the fact that it won’t!! It will probably move at about 3000rpm.
This is where the fuel injection starts injecting more fuel into the engine so when it’s set too high the bike will be jerky at low speeds! (The line takes a second or two to move, hence turning the throttle slowly!)

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_check_idle_change_speed.jpg

12: Turn off the engine and locate the Throttle Position Sensor… It’s under the tank on the left hand side of the bike, just behind the air box.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_sensor_distance_shot2.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_sensor_close_up_1.jpg

13: Using your size 25 Security Torx bit…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/Security_Tork_Bit.jpg

CAREFULLY undo the two torx bolts on the sensor (the ones at the top & bottom, not either side!).

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/TPS_undo_bolts.jpg

**WARNING**
The bolts are very hard to get to (especially the lower one) and are made of a very fine, soft French cheese!!!!

I found it easiest to adjust if you don’t undo the top bolt very much as this way you can pivot it a bit better!

14: Start the engine and turn the sensor anti-clockwise (I think) to decrease the sensor’s activation point. You will need to make very tiny movements of the sensor!
You may find that the engine cuts out (or nearly cuts out). If it does stop, try moving the sensor back in the opposite direction & thumbing the starter button again. If this doesn’t help, try increasing your idle speed a little at a time until the engine starts & runs properly again!

15: Keep making small adjustments, turning the throttle slowly while looking at the display to see when the line moves to the top of the display. It should stay in the middle of the display whilst idle and move to the top at around 1450rpm.
Keep fiddling – it does happen although it can be bloody fiddly & infuriating!

16: Once you’ve got the line to move at about 1450rpm, very slowly tighten up the bolts on the sensor again – it’s easiest to do the top one first. It’s not a bad idea to hold the sensor steady as you tighten it, as if it moves, the sensor will activate at a different rpm! Check that the line moves at the same revs after you tighten each bolt.

17: Remove the ‘tool’ from the connector, replace the rubber cover, tuck back where you got it from and check that the temperature display returns on the dash!!

18: Put the tank back down, replace your saddle, side panels and pillion seat and go and test!!!

_____

I accept no responsibility for this modification or any unexpected effects you may encounter.
_____

amarko5

04-07-04, 09:56 PM

WELL DONE :lol: THAT MAN :wink:

Excellent and clear proceedure :thumbsup:

I can vouch for the french cheese bolts :oops: I ended up with a snapped in half hacksaw blade, to cut a slot head in each.

and before anyone says it, I had good quality tools i just was ever so slightly at an angle to the head of the screw and instant cheese :evil:

Take care and take your time.It is fixable if you cheese it, but its awkward to cut the slots in. Took me 4 times longer to do the slots than it took to do the job. :wink:

coombest

04-07-04, 10:07 PM

Oops - I forgot to mention that if you have a second pair of hands available- USE THEM!
Get them to push against the throttle bodies (on the opposite side of where the TPS sensor is) while you undo and re-do up the bolts... That way you can push in a lot harder and are far less likely to balls up the bolts! (I only did this on the last 2 of the 4 bike's I've done this mod to and it makes it sooooo much easier!) The second bike I did, the bottom bolt head just fell apart and we haven't got round to sorting it yet - no doubt we will do when we repair it (it was BillyC's now somewhat second hand looking bike!!).

Also the bottom bolt has some pipes in the way, running along the frsame. You can quite happily move them out of the way. You have about an inch and a half give on them!!

Barty_b0y

04-07-04, 10:51 PM

nice one that chap

no use to us migt we seem to be the poor middle country and only afford k2`s max :D

but no doubt it will get used one day by us :D

Cloggsy

05-07-04, 08:05 AM

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v296/coombest/TPS%20TRE/Undo_seat.jpg

:shock: The saddle's all wet... You didn't, did you :?:

coombest

05-07-04, 05:57 PM

[quote="Cloggsy :shock: The saddle's all wet... You didn't, did you :?:[/quote]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: That's not my bike, that one! It's BillyC's and I bloomin well hope he hadn't! :shock:
No - it'd been raining pretty hard when we started to do his - our progress then got halted by cheese-bolts! :evil:

splke

06-07-04, 08:11 PM

Excellent
How To mate.
Thank you very much
30 mins and no cheese
This is the 1st mod that has made a big difference.
Very smooth in 1st gear.
Did I mention I Love you :love:

coombest

06-07-04, 10:11 PM

This is the 1st mod that has made a big difference.
Very smooth in 1st gear.

Yeah - makes you wonder why Suzuki don't set them up better doesn't it!!?? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

amarko5

06-07-04, 11:47 PM

splke

07-07-04, 11:31 AM

Excellent
How To mate.
Thank you very much
30 mins and no cheese
This is the 1st mod that has made a big difference.
Very smooth in 1st gear.
Did I mention I Love you :love:

Put your snorkel back on mate, then go give it big fistfulls in 1st 2nd and third see what you think :?:

Why put the snorkel on...
Is it a bad thing to remove it mate ?

Iansv

07-07-04, 11:47 AM

Much easier on the curvier sexier model... :lol:

amarko5

07-07-04, 11:53 AM

SteveNZ

12-07-04, 07:19 AM

Excellent howto. It's good that you made a point about how sensitive the adjustment is. I found that I was moving it fractions of a degree and getting quite a bit of change to the RPM level. I think I ended up putting up with it changing at about 1600RPM, which is a whole lot better than the 3000RPM it was as standard. It makes the bike so much nicer to ride in stop-start traffic with the TPS calibrated properly. I've since put a Powercommander on it which has a manually adjustable (set throttle zero position) computerised TPS -like thingy built in which improves things even more.

I'd suggesting trying to get the moderator to make this a sticky, or bung it in the articles section, as it's very handy.

coombest

12-07-04, 09:18 AM

I'd suggesting trying to get the moderator to make this a sticky, or bung it in the articles section, as it's very handy.

Yeah - I suddenly realised this last night when I was looking at the main website! I have already sent John the link to this and also the 'raw' documents I cut & pasted onto the forum so hopefully they will soon appear in he How To section of the main site!

Les

14-07-04, 07:40 AM

Was just reading thru the step by step TPS mod by coombest (which I reckon is a TOP NOTCH effort - well done mate!) and thought that I'd offer this little tip for dealing with soft-headed fasteners such as encountered here. Use a bit of valve grinding paste (a cheap alternative to proper "screw grab" stuff) on the tip of your Torx bit to give a more positive grip in the recess. Should go a long way to preventing the tip from munting the screw.

Me gonna do this mod very soon me thinks

:D

bird

19-07-04, 12:16 PM

Did someone ask why suzuki dont make them set like this as standard?.

They do, except like carbs they go out of sync and need resetting. This is done when your bike is serviced. Yep when set right it does make your bike run smoother.

I like the way peeps fiddle when they are not to sure about what they are doing!!...is that why there are so many treads on here from peeps that have bikes with running problems???

Itching 2 go

29-07-04, 04:17 PM

Did someone ask why suzuki dont make them set like this as standard?. actually yes, they said that the sv has the potentioal to be a bloody powerfull bike but they DUMBED it down for the masses as they were **** scared of any tie up with its evil twin brother

Richie

01-08-04, 09:05 PM

Cheers M8 for the MOD, did it.... but unfortunatly did'nt have a secuity torques bit.... small screwdriver and hammer sorted it!!!!
so with french soft cheese as screws and a normal 25 torque bit did the trick....
:twisted: alot better at pulling..now (Wheely Wheely fast)
p.s. anyone got 2 x 25 bit security torque screws please let me know...
I don't think the service dealer will let it go... :oops:

02-08-04, 04:48 PM

Since completing this mod I've now had a chance to have a good few hours on the bike. I can honestly say I cannot notice any difference with slow speed stuff, or at any other point. I have checked the settings and I have adjusted it spot on!

Oh well - perhaps it's just me, I'll give it some time and see if I can notice a difference. Am I the only one that is not getting any benefit or are you all just imagining it in?! :lol: (the mind can play funny games!)

I didn't have any problems with the bolts - wouldn't advise hammering the conventional torx bits into the screws though! :?

If you are about to do this mod - go and get a quarter drive ratchet and the proper torx bits rather than hammering away or burring up the nice shiny bolts!! A quarter drive will fit right in there with no awkwardness at all.

sexysi

02-08-04, 07:07 PM

Well done Tim, excellent mod, shame I havn't got a K3/K4, Now all you need is a Web site with a MODS section on it.
sexysi

Alaniski

16-08-04, 02:20 PM

Hey . . could we have some opinions from those who did this mod?
did it work, is it worth it, would you do it again?

Before i go butcher my poor cheese bolts!

Moo

16-08-04, 03:38 PM

Good work :thumbsup:

chewy22

13-12-04, 11:11 PM

Hi coombest sent you 3 PMs and I cant believe you haven’t received all of them regarding were you get the figure 1450 rpm from. Had a look in the service books but no mention of this figure.

coombest

13-12-04, 11:38 PM

Hi coombest sent you 3 PMs and I cant believe you haven’t received all of them regarding were you get the figure 1450 rpm from. Had a look in the service books but no mention of this figure.

Hi there chewy22,
I have received 2 of your PMs. I don't remember where I got thae 1450rpm figure from now but I do seem to remember it was one also given a lot by varying different websites, etc.

You'll have to forgive my vagueness but July 4th was a bloody long time ago (and that was a good month after I did the actual mods!)...

Add that to the fact that you may have failed to notice that I have had a few, somewhat more 'pressing' things on my mind of late! (See below)

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15275

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15507

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15814

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15781

chewy22

13-12-04, 11:46 PM

Hey . . could we have some opinions from those who did this mod?
did it work, is it worth it, would you do it again?

Before i go butcher my poor cheese bolts!

Ok coombest forgiven I think, :?: But in answer to Alaniski question i would say do it as mine was WAY OUT 3 to 4K before it booted in far better to ride now in the lower RPM.

Johnsilver

14-12-04, 10:32 AM

Did my SK3 recently. It was prev at about 3.5k, much smoother now in low-speed traffic conditions. torx security bit set from machinemart - no problem with bolt head condition.

thor

09-11-05, 01:43 PM

coombest

09-11-05, 02:34 PM

Is there any downside to doing this? Apart from fluffing it up of course...

I've been looking at a remap to trying to smooth things out a bit, but this might be a good idea too. Why does the bike come badly adjusted in the first place?

As you say, other than fluffing it up - or the bolts falling apart like they're made from a nice piece of wensleydale - there's not really a downside as far as I can see.

A remap will certainly be worthwhile but I would still do this first, as this will not be altered by the remap but it could alter the results of the remap, I suppose!

The bike may not be badly adjusted - some seem to be better than others and the only logical reason for this would be that with the volume of production and the tolerances in these items, there's no way they could set each and every one just right! (It does take some time to get it just right!)

will

09-11-05, 02:48 PM

i'm thinking of doing this mod too.

Anyone in the south west-ish london, surrey area want to meet up and do two bikes together. The deal is we do your bike first and then once perfected, do mine :wink: :lol:

Thor, are you interested?

thor

09-11-05, 02:52 PM

Would love to! However, I am restricted to weekends only, and can make no gaurentees as when I might be free. :(

TorqueAddict

24-04-06, 02:39 AM

I posted this information in another thread, but thought it would be useful in this thread too...

Just in case anyone is thinking about trying this but not sure... Here are my observations:

1. Very easy to do, thanks to coombest! :notworthy:

2. After the adjustment, my bike is SIGNIFICANTLY less jerky, especially at low speeds. It makes an OBVIOUS difference (at least it did on my bike).

3. [EDIT] Please do not assume that your bike will arrive with the TPS correctly adjusted by Suzuki. Mine was "turning up" the fuel mix at about 3200 RPM -- it's basically a brand new bike! (The adjustment is to reset this transition point to about 1450 RPM.)

4. Instead of using wire, I used an ordinary smallish paperclip, which I trimmed into a U-shape about 3/4 inch long. It actually SNAPPED right into the connector like it was custom-made!

5. In case you aren't aware of the difference, you have to use a SECURITY torx bit -- that means that there is a hole in the top of the bit which can accomodate a small pin. For those in the states, my local Sears had a set of 8 such bits in stock for $9.99.

6. A 1/4" socket can be used to grab the security torx bit and with a small ratcheting handle (1/4" drive) will give you plenty of room to turn that little screw without damaging anything. It's really pretty fool-proof with the right tools.

7. TRY IT, YOU WON'T REGRET IT!

Sid Squid

24-04-06, 06:24 AM

TorqueAddict

24-04-06, 03:40 PM

3. Those who have said that it ships from Suzuki adjusted correctly, but then becomes poorly adjusted over time are dead wrong.

Thank you for your feedback :thumbsup:

Now how many SVs have you fiddled with? Keep the dimissive assumptions to yourself ta.

Gotcha -- I overstated it. What I should have said is "don't assume that your new bike arrives with the TPS adjusted correctly by Suzuki, cause mine didn't!" :oops:

Richie

24-04-06, 05:15 PM

Sid Squid

24-04-06, 07:26 PM

Gotcha -- I overstated it. What I should have said is "don't assume that your new bike arrives with the TPS adjusted correctly by Suzuki, cause mine didn't!" :oops:

Cool, :lol: , They are often out of adjustment at very low miles, but as stated the adjustment changes dramatically quickly, as you have noted the amount of movement required to make a significant change is very, very small.

tigersaw

26-04-06, 03:49 PM

Just done the Adjustment on my year old K5. Following the instructions it was very easy, no problems with cheese screws using the correct tools.

It was initially set at 3100 rpm - since everyone seems to be finding that I doubt that is by accident, more like that is the factory setting. Mines now set at approx 2000 rpm, I could not get it any more precise, even tightening up the screws offsets the adjustment; its so sensitive.

I took it out for the same 20 mile blat before and after. The only thing I have noticed, it may be subtle or just my imagination, is that there is less engine braking. I never had any jerkyness in the first place.

Is this a safe 'mod' to do, with no side effects like increased fuel consumption or other worries?- if so I'll put it back as it was.

cyphertheory

19-05-06, 08:07 AM

great mod, made a big difference for my commute into town every day, mine was set at 4200 rpm now just 1800.

Mods please make this sticky?

Thanks

KayDee

19-05-06, 11:59 AM

I've just done this mod (er adjustment!), it was set at 3.5k! Now set at 1.5k! Lovely jubly! I wont be able to test untill during the week however as I'm ill!

lukemillar

19-05-06, 12:38 PM

Is there a recommended setting from Suzuki for this?

lajaro

24-05-06, 11:30 PM

Sorry for my first post being a plea for help but I'm desparate. Went about making these TPS adjustments and all was going perfect until the little line next to the C is at the bottom: _ C00

Please help!

Thanks

amarko5

25-05-06, 12:06 AM

set your idle speed (on the adjuster screw left side of bike ) to 1450 RPM you do tis when the engine is warm.

at that point slacken slightly the TPS unit and rotate very very slowly (it takes a second or 2 to register) until the mark moves to the centre position (if it does not after moving 3 or 4 mm then go the other way. once set at the middle position roll the throttle very very slightly 50 to 100rpm and the line should move to the top. if it does tighen everything and bobs your uncle. :wink:

lajaro

25-05-06, 12:18 AM

Thanks. I've been playing with the idle and got it back to center, but now the bike sounds really rough and stalls out more.

Does that mean the idle is too low, or the TPS is too high?

amarko5

25-05-06, 12:27 AM

at what revs does the bar goto the top ?

and if you adjust the tickover down to say 1100 rpm at what point does the bar go low small movements as it takes time to respond ?

the idea is to have the bar pass the middle point around 1450 to 1500 rpm

going low below that and going high above it.

be warned it is very sensetive to adjust and takes a bit of fiddling to get it right.

the response time is approx 1 sec or so so be very slow opening and closing the throttle when your watching the bar

I have to go sleep now so maybe northwind can carry on the tech support :wink:

lajaro

25-05-06, 01:23 AM

Thanks, dude - your calm words and some patience and I got it back where I wanted.

It was constantly at low. Not sure what the combination of turns was, but at one point, it was centered when idling at 3500! So I lowered the idle then rotated the tps, then repeated.

I hope I haven't caused any damage (the fellow at the shop warned me about detonation).

Cheers

xj/frosty

25-05-06, 05:39 AM

a suggestion for anyone doing this mod. Pull the chesse screws out and replace em with cap screws.Much easier to loosen and tighten and if you use t handled allen keys a lot easier to access

JeremySV650

29-05-06, 08:47 PM

I did this today. It took me about 20 minutes total. I was able to get the line to go up at about 1700 rpm. It seems much better than before, at 3500. Great and easy to follow write up.

skrewloose

30-05-06, 01:11 AM

a suggestion for anyone doing this mod. Pull the chesse screws out and replace em with cap screws.Much easier to loosen and tighten and if you use t handled allen keys a lot easier to access

replaced with M5-.80 x 20mm allen heads from sears ... much easier to get an allen wrench in there and it's not that cheesey crap the stock ones are made out of .... think it was $ .07 per lock washer, $ .05 per washer and $ .70 per bolt

lukemillar

30-05-06, 09:01 AM

Is there a recommended setting from Suzuki for this?

I'm still wondering if anyone knows the answer to this! :why:

lajaro

02-06-06, 04:47 PM

Everyone I've spoken to (Suzuki service) says that the lline must be in the middle at idle. (seems like they don't care about when the line goes up to the top).

morphout

03-06-06, 05:53 PM

just did the mod today and i can say it is noticeably, although not significantly, smoother at low speeds. Probably enough to make for an easier traffic jam commute. Had a problem where the bike wouldnt even run for a minute, shut everything off and pulled out my connector wire, started it up and ran fine. So eventually, i got it tweaked and the line moves somewhere around 1470 (down from originally about 4k) rpm. :thumbsup:
At first i thought i'd never get close to 1500 rpm, but tightened the torx enough that i could tap the TPS with a screwdriver and move it in the smallest increments. Did it twice before i hit 1470(ish)

wardy2602

05-06-06, 09:57 PM

Hi all

Did this mod last week found two up riding near impossible in town before the mod my little baby was so jerky especially round mini round abouts.
Had no probs and what a difference its so much better now, I adjusted my idle down first from 1800 to 1200 and then the tps sensor down from 3500 to 1500 its much much better.
Didnt have a problem with the bolts either bought one of these very useful
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=10334&criteria=Ratchet%20Screwdrivers&doy=5m6

Cheers lads for a great guide id recommend everybody to do it.

graphikill

14-06-06, 07:50 AM

okay so i tried this mod last night and founbd taht i must be the only person on this forum who has there idle set correctly and there tps correct...

went through the mod with my bro-inlaw and as we turned it on we found it to be exactly spot on....

maybe the lads at esb check for this when pdi'ing it or servicing it....

but what i did find is that there was some play in the throttle cables, now that they are adjusted they have made a hell of a difference...

a lot smoother in low gears and more responsive to boot

dotted

16-07-06, 08:14 PM

Just did the TPS mod , it was impossible to set it for 1500rpm's , 1900 rpm's was closest i could get , before it was at 3600 !

There is a real improvement at low speed / low rpm !
In the small 1 hour test ride i did, many times i found found myself holding tight to the handle bars waiting for the engine to kick back , but for my surprise it was just smooth :D

Great guide , thank you :)

MikeVStrom

07-10-06, 11:10 PM

Great tweak! My VStrom was quite a handful at low speed, but now it's smooth as silk. Well done coombest! By the way, on the Vstrom the clock becomes the meter. other than that it is just the same.

CortezTheKiller

24-10-06, 10:26 PM

Hi guys,

I've read all of this thread with great interest because in the 4 weeks that I've had my SV650K6 my only niggle has been the on/off nature of the throttle, which, I hadn't really realised consciously until I read these posts, only really appears at low speed.

Now I am a complete newbie. This is my first bike since passing my test 6 weeks ago and I know nothing about the mechanics of bikes. All I wanted to ask is, as my bike is going in for its 600 mile service on Friday, will the TPS and idle speed be checked and reset to the suggested values automatically, or should I ask the mechanics to take a look at them?

And as someone intimated earlier, does the engine breaking effect really decrease after this mod has been done?

I'm loving the bike by the way. The weather has been pretty good and I've done 700 miles in 4 weeks. I'm glad I chose an SV rather than an ER6-n.

Mr Toad

24-10-06, 10:53 PM

All I wanted to ask is, as my bike is going in for its 600 mile service on Friday, will the TPS and idle speed be checked and reset to the suggested values automatically, or should I ask the mechanics to take a look at them?

It should be done as part of the service, but no harm in asking. Technically I don't actually think it's a mod, more of an adjustment that sometimes has to be made from time to time, bit like adjusting your chain if it's become slack

Stu

24-10-06, 11:04 PM

janbros

05-02-07, 08:48 PM

mattSV

05-02-07, 09:09 PM

Hi guys,

I'm new to this forum :wink:

I haven 't got an SV, just the 650 engine that I'm putting in to the frame of a Kawasaki KR-1S .

I wanted to start it for the first time yesterday, but couldn't 'cause there is something wrong with the injection, and I need to get into the dealer mode, and by googeling I ended up here.

my only problem is that my connector is broken where the dealer switch goes into, so can somebody please tell me the colors of the wires I have to connect ?

TNX

Welcome to the site

Hmm - a 650 engine in one of the best handling frames - that could be interesting :wink:

No idea which wires to connect, however it might be worth starting a new post with the title 'Dealer Mode - which wires to connect?' just so it is more visible.

Good luck with the project and keep us updated.

Matt

BILLY

05-02-07, 09:33 PM

Interesting !! How about you post some picks of your bike we all want to see 8)

janbros

06-02-07, 07:03 PM

about the wires :they're the White/red and Black/white ones :wink:

I've found the problem's : I need an original SV650 contact because off the build-in anti-theft :( , and there is a problem with the tip-over sensor.

here you can follow my project : http://www.kr-1s.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=67

not too much written info, 'cause the original KR1-forum went off line, and it was too much work to translate everything back to englisch (I'm from Belgium :wink: ).

briderdt

11-11-08, 11:50 PM

Fantastic post, and excellent, well laid-out description! I just completed the TPS adjustment, and aside from the "dealer module" being near impossible to access (I almost had to detatch the rear fairing), it took about the time that you stated.

Thank you!

svdemon

16-01-09, 06:24 PM

I stuck a toggle switch in my "dealer mode plug" because i've noticed that this needs adjusting regularly. I did mine in the summer and its out again so i'm going to start doing it every month or so.

Also i replaced the cheese bolts onthe TPS with stainless allen head bolts too.

flymo

16-01-09, 08:23 PM

I'm still wondering if anyone knows the answer to this! (where the rpm figure came from...) :why:

I've checked the dealer workshop manual for this and it does not state an rpm figure for when the line should begin to move up.

It explains that the engine idle speed should be set to 1300rpm (+-100rpm) with the engine warm. The tps should then only be adjusted if the line is not already in the middle position.

Having said that, I'm not sure this post has covered this particular point but provided that the line settles on the middle position at idle then there is still an amount of adjustment possible to the tps. Within this range I would expect that at one extreme it causes poor low speed throttle response. At the other extreme it seems smoother as some people have found.

Section 4-16 of the service manual for those that have one.

One other tip I would add to this procedure before you start is to either make a small scribe mark that crosses the tps and the mount it is fastened too, or paint a small stripe across with liquid paper so that you can reset back to the starting point in case you panic and get lost.

Good idea on replacing the cheese bolts with stainless cap screws, thats a typical mod to almost every fastener on race bikes, particularly carbs and the like to extend their life and ease of removal.

Good post though.

Red Herring

02-02-09, 05:13 PM

Just did the adjustment to my K5 today. Didn't have the right tool for the bolts (who has) so I just took the whole throttle bodies off and undid the bolts with a mole wrench (I know, brutal but effective), then replaced the bolts with allen head items, replaced the throttles and carried out the adjustment. Mine was changing about 3,500 RPM and it took a bit of perseverance to get it right at about 1,500, but got there in the end.

Given that the majority of us are finding the original setting is about 3,000 RPM it does make you question if this in fact should be the correct setting, and setting it lower is in fact a "mod". I wonder if it's to do with emissions? Do they measure them just above idle when going for type approval etc which might prompt Suzuki to deliberately delay the extra fuel coming in?

Sid Squid

02-02-09, 11:49 PM

No, it's not a mod.

The setting is pretty much bang on from the factory, I've tested a couple of near new bikes to verify this, the only correct setting is the factory one. My checking of this suggests the variation occurs early in the life of the bike due to initial wear in the plastic ball joints of the throttle linkage - the throttle stop is on one end, the TPS on the other, wear in the joints varies the setting of the TPS. Once an initial higher rate of wear settles down, the setting stabilises.

Also bear in mind the FI system doesn't do something magical at any given throttle setting, the throttle position is indexed as a voltage, a given voltage is interpreted by the FI as a shut throttle - the TPS is a potentiometer - simply put the bar display in dealer mode is a voltmeter, the correct setting for a shut throttle is a given voltage, displayed as the centre bar of the display*. Setting as the manual suggests simply allows the FI system to choose the correct settings, (injector duration, ignition timing, emissions equipment) for a given throttle position.

*This is essentially the same as with the curvy, (and many other bikes too), the TPS setting on those bikes requires you to connect a meter, (in this case a resistance meter as the setting isn't done 'live'), directly to the TPS to ascertain the setting, the only difference is the FI bikes has the test meter 'on board' and the setting is displayed as a moving bar, rather than numerically.

flymo

03-02-09, 08:40 AM

The setting is pretty much bang on from the factory, I've tested a couple of near new bikes to verify this, the only correct setting is the factory one.

Sid, Are you saying that this procedure is the correct thing to do? I'm not sure if you mean that the 3000rpm (approx) value that peeps are finding is correct, or if this variance is the result of the initial wear.

Sid Squid

04-02-09, 09:19 AM

Sid, Are you saying that this procedure is the correct thing to do? I'm not sure if you mean that the 3000rpm (approx) value that peeps are finding is correct, or if this variance is the result of the initial wear.
Yes, this is exactly the same procedure that is in the manual, (Suzuki's own and Haynes et al), it's nothing magical and is a part of normal servicing.
Set as described in Tim's above article, the line should be in the centre at idle, and move to the upper position as the engine speed rises from idle. This allows the FI system to know where the throttle is, (it's a Throttle Position Sensor!), specifically here the shut throttle as that's the index position, nothing special, no 'putting more fuel in' at whatever revs, there are many misconceptions about what the TPS does, but it's really very simple.

Things to bear in mind:

1) If you balance the throttle bodies or adjust the idle speed, the setting will alter. As I mentioned above the throttle stop and balance assembly are on one end of the linkage, the TPS on the other.
2) Other service procedures have an effect on throttle balance, so;
3) TPS setting should be done last, after clearances, plugs, filter clean, throttle balance and idle setting, if the TPS or balance or idle are a long way off, resetting might be necessary after one or another is done, but the last thing should always be the TPS as it's setting is directly affected by throttle balance and idle speed.

flymo

04-02-09, 10:34 AM

Yes, this is exactly the same procedure that is in the manual, (Suzuki's own and Haynes et al), it's nothing magical and is a part of normal servicing.
Set as described in Tim's above article, the line should be in the centre at idle, and move to the upper position as the engine speed rises from idle. This allows the FI system to know where the throttle is, (it's a Throttle Position Sensor!), specifically here the shut throttle as that's the index position, nothing special, no 'putting more fuel in' at whatever revs, there are many misconceptions about what the TPS does, but it's really very simple.

Things to bear in mind:

1) If you balance the throttle bodies or adjust the idle speed, the setting will alter. As I mentioned above the throttle stop and balance assembly are on one end of the linkage, the TPS on the other.
2) Other service procedures have an effect on throttle balance, so;
3) TPS setting should be done last, after clearances, plugs, filter clean, throttle balance and idle setting, if the TPS or balance or idle are a long way off, resetting might be necessary after one or another is done, but the last thing should always be the TPS as it's setting is directly affected by throttle balance and idle speed.

Ok, I'm fine with all that. The bit that was unclear from your earlier post was wether or not the line should begin to move upwards from the center at around 3000rpm or a lower speed than that.

Are we implying that they leave the factory with an intentional setting of around 3000rpm or that it has drifted since factory setting due to settling or wear of the linkages.

This part isnt described in the manuals.

gazza

05-02-09, 08:35 PM

Just done the TPS set up. What a pig to get set right!!!! My K7 has a different TPS to the one on the photo's & i couldnt find the tickover adjuster. Still the same procedure though. MY K7 was changing state at 3400rpm. I cant test it yet as the roads look like a skating rink.

Bibio

02-04-09, 08:01 PM

just done this to a K8 twin spark version. everything is the same as earlier including it being the lower sensor..

difference is huge, a lot smother and less jerky. my tps was kicking in around 4200 revs, its now 1500 ish revs, biggest difference i have found is going round mini roundabouts, its a joy now where as before it was jerky as hell.. its like riding a different bike.. a lot more pleasurable..

something also quite strange is and i dont know if its just me getting used to the bike, but i seem to be hitting the rev limiter easier.

Ruthja2801

04-04-09, 02:45 PM

Gonna attempt this myself tomorrow! I have all the tools! Anybody got any further tips?

svdemon

04-04-09, 03:45 PM

Gonna attempt this myself tomorrow! I have all the tools! Anybody got any further tips?

Take your time when you rev the throttle as the gauge takes a while to catch up.

thefallenangel

04-04-09, 08:10 PM

VolatileParsley

04-04-09, 08:26 PM

had a go at this an hour ago and the bottom f**kin bolt rounded. Thinking how to get it out as grips, pliers are all to dodgy to get into the slot and you can't hammer up the next size in. Hacksaw looks too awkward to get it too.

Had the bloody right size torx bit on a 1/4" ratchet too.

Probably the best thing to do is to displace the throttle bodies so that you can get at the bolt properly. You'll need to remove the airbox first but it's all a fairly straightforward job.

Had to do it myself yesterday evening so that I could get a good purchase on the bolt holding a throttle stop in place. Obviously my dealer felt the need to MIG weld this stop onto the throttle body when they installed the cra**y FI restrictor kit ;)

rossinio

11-04-09, 06:37 PM

Well add me to the list of people who've done it :) made a pretty big difference, very nice and smooth, gives a *massive* boost to confidence everywhere and removes a lot of the lumpiness in the engine..

Thanks a lot guys!

rossinio

11-04-09, 06:38 PM

Woz

23-04-09, 02:41 PM

Just had a got at this and I have to agree, what a pig of a job.

Before I put everthing back together, is there a downside to the line moving too early ie. the moment pressure is applied to the throttle (1300 rpm ish)?

Edit... A absolute pig of a job because numpty here completely mis-read ANTI -clockwise when adjusting the sensor :stupid:. Once I realised, got the idle speed down from 5000, stopped the thick black smoke pouring from the exhaust and adjusted it properly, it was fairly straight forward :rolleyes:

And the torx bolts were a doddle :confused:

AZ Pete

24-04-09, 09:31 PM

Add another to the list that have made the adjustment. I replaced the screws with cap screws, while I was at it. Thanks for taking the time to post the step-by-step instructions.

DarrenSV650S

25-04-09, 07:14 PM

Mine was changing at about 4.5k rpm. I wouldn't say it is a huge difference but definitely worth while doing. When I'm riding at crawling pace and come off the throttle it doesn't try to spit me off the front now. And it does feel generally smoother.

Specialone

26-04-09, 08:50 PM

Excuse my ignorance,
Does this mod / adjustment remove the delay of the throttle.
Mine does nothing then a lot resulting in a little jerkiness which i normally lose with better control of the clutch / rear brake at low speeds in first gear.
Does it improve 2nd, 3rd gear smothness at low speeds instead of juddering due to lack of throttle?
Also i havent even done the 650 miles yet for its 1st service so will it affect my warranty as i would be tinkering.

Bibio

27-04-09, 02:05 AM

it removes some of the jerkyness at low speed (e.g. going round mini roundabouts) but not all.

no it wont remove the juddering due to lack of throttle.. if your bike is juddering due to lack of revs, move down a gear so as to raise the revs... you are labouring the engine..

dont do it till after the first service...

dont know about warranty issue... but i would guess not...

AZ Pete

27-04-09, 08:12 PM

Just for information. If you are going to change the cheezy security torx fasteners with hex head cap screws, I found that the 16mm length was a better fit on my '06. The 20mm length were a bit long, and not knowing what the extra length would contact on the bottom screw, I cut some 20mm screws down to match the length of the original screws. I later found some 5mm, .80, 16mm screws that are a good replacement for the originals.

Zen Beetle

03-05-09, 12:53 AM

Bibio

03-05-09, 01:35 AM

The TPS on my K7 looks different in that it appears to have only one security torx screw holding it in place. I assume I just need to undue this screw with the 25 security torx bit and move it slightly in order to adjust the TPS setting. As there is no bottom screw to loosen, this should in theory make it easier to adjust the TPS.

Yes its only got one bolt. adjust the bottom TPS on the throttle body. dont touch the top one. if you can replace the torx bolt, coz there made of cheese.

One thing that has me perplexed is that my K7 appears to have no throttle stop screw. Apparently K7 + models have an ISC (idle speed control system). Does anybody know whether the idle speed can be adjusted on the ISC? If yes, where can it be found and how can it be adjusted?

Funny you should mention this... i haven't found one yet but my bike always seems to tick over at correct speed..

Zen Beetle

03-05-09, 01:57 AM

What do you mean by "adjust the bottom TPS on the throttle body, don't touch the top one.?" There's only one TPS as far as I can see.

I suspect that the reason your bike always ticks over at the correct speed is because the ISC is controlled by the ECU. There is no throttle stop screw as in earlier K models.

Zen Beetle

03-05-09, 02:10 AM

Thanks Bibio. Will have another look tomorrow to see if I can find the bottom TPS.

Bibio

03-05-09, 04:10 PM

Zen Beetle

03-05-09, 04:42 PM

Found it! Attached is a pic which I hope will help as a useful visual reference to the K7 TPS setup. My bike is running perfectly so no need to adjust the TPS. Just thought I would acquaint myself with the TPS setup for when it does need doing i.e. I will check it at the 7500 mile service. Once again, thanks to all for an excellent thread.

Bluefish

03-05-09, 07:37 PM

is this mainly a problem with the carbed bikes as my 07 seems ok and i'm not going to start messing with it for the sake of it.

Sid Squid

03-05-09, 07:50 PM

Specifically this thread refers to the TPS adjustment of the FI bikes only, your K7 included.
But, as has been mentioned before, they're set right from the factory but some people have found the initial, relatively higher, rate of wear on the operating mechanism causes the adjustment to change early in the life on some bikes.

Cabed bikes also have a TPS and this should be set in a similar way - obviously there's no digital readout on those so an electrical meter will be needed.

Bibio

03-05-09, 10:31 PM

yes your picture is correct... top TSP is actually the STPS.. and the bottom one is TPS..

so as to your picture its the bottom TPS you want to adjust...

Zen Beetle

03-05-09, 10:46 PM

Thanks Bibio. It all makes sense now.

SV Muppet

04-05-09, 12:11 PM

I didn't realise this thread existed until yesterday.

I picked up my K6 new in July 2007. Right from the start I noticed it was snatchy at low revs but I put it down to the fact that it needed running in, and I'd been off bikes for a few years and maybe lost a bit of throttle hand sensitivity.

But as time passed it got no better and I concluded that the SV is a budget bike with budget fueling that's basically crap.

However, this morning I followed these instructions and made the adjustment. Firstly I found that my little line didn't move until 4500 rpm (I did open the throttle very very slowly - it was definitley at 4500).

I had no problem with the Torx bolts - used a standard tool with a 1/4 open ended spanner. The tool doesn't go very deep into the head so make sure you keep pressure against it while turning it.

Now, bearing in mind that mine was set at 4.5k, the amount that I had to move the TPS was no more than 0.5mm (relative to the original white line painted on it) to drop it to 1500 rpm. I found that tightening the Torx bolts raised it slightly and now mine moves at 1700 rpm, so not ideal but a whole lot better.

So, the test run; As has already been said, it transforms the bike. Straight away it felt smoother, ticked over nicer, and smooth gearchanges are much easier. I don't get that sudden snatchy fuel shut off as I roll the throttle off aproaching junctions any more, and it's vastly smoother when opening the throttle from nothing. Small roundabouts are not a pain anymore!

Many thanks for the guidance. \\:D/

TSM

04-05-09, 12:18 PM

blab blab blab....

Scrap what i said, im looking at it all wrong.. let me start again.

1) ive changed the thread title as its not a mod, its an adjustement.

2) The top TPS looks like its for the Secondary Throtle Valve (Top) (SDTV - Suzuki Dual Throtle Valve) which is Actuated by the ECU... and Primary Throtle Valve (bottom) TPS is actuated by the user throttle input. To know more.... http://media.suzuki.com/svlaunch/fuel.htm

kevo115

09-05-09, 06:26 PM

hi, i,m taking a pillion for the 1st time to the thundersprint in northwich tomoz, and was a bit worried about jerky throttle response making things uncomfortable for her. then i saw your thread this morning and did the mod, took about 30 minutes with no problems. GOD!!!! what a difference! feels so smooth now, it's like riding a new bike. the line was moving to the top at 4000 rpm! top class post mate. your a star.

cheers, kev.

The Guru

12-05-09, 08:10 PM

I done this tonight. Was set at 3500rpm.

So adjusted it to about 1600rpm.. but when I tightened it up I must have moved it a fraction and its set at 2000rpm. hayho..

Even still, what a massive difference! :smt023

Blacktoffee

19-05-09, 08:57 AM

Thankyou so much, my bike has been in my suzuki garage now for 4 days because riding in 1st and 2nd gear was bloody terrifying through slow moving traffic. Can this also cause the engine to cut out occasionally? Im heading down to my garage soon to see how they are getting on. They have taken it apart twice now and rebuilt it without finding a problem, but have rode it and the problem is still there? can all this be rectified by making this adjustment and am i looking at a hefty bill to be fixed?
Cheers
Matt

yorkie_chris

19-05-09, 09:02 AM

Cabed bikes also have a TPS and this should be set in a similar way - obviously there's no digital readout on those so an electrical meter will be needed.

But the difference on the carbed bikes is relatively small in comparison. A few degrees of ignition advance won't make much odds.