With a fully charged battery the first thing I did was to put the front sprocket nut and lock washer on. 90nm was the setting which is difficult to achieve as the rear wheel just slips. Luckily Stretchie showed up with some additional down force. With him sat on the bike I could get the nut tightened.
And this now meant that the front sprocket cover and the gear change can go on.
Now it was time for the battery to be connected. And the ignition was turned on. I was greeted with nothing. Not a bean, or to be more precise no powervalve servo action and no lights at the dash or headlight. Queue the fault finding.
First thought was a faulty switch. I'm using a second hand switch so used the original. But this made no difference. Checked the switch, the handlebar switches, and everything at the front. All I found was on the dash loom connector the negative was on the wrong pin. It was fairly easy to swap over to the correct location. Trouble is still no electrics.
More investigation and wire wiggling and finally the dash sprung to life. And with a little more so did the rest of the bike and the powervalve. The source was the fuses in the main fuse box. They were showing good by all tests but when I removed one it fell apart. The fuses were replaced and all was good.
Now the other problems and solutions. First was the coolant. filling the system resulted in a leak. The seal in the thermostat wasn't working. Trouble is the seal is not a separate part and the thermostat is a tad on the expensive side. So and I admit this is straying into bodge territory some instant gasket was used to seal it. The following morning it was dry, the system filled and so far no leaks.
The other issue was the powervalve servo not moving the valve properly. After some investigation the issue was located. It was my fault entirely. I screwed up the rooting of the cables.
Firstly the above is the correct cable positions at the servo. I somehow had managed to have the cables both going to the same side.
And the next thing was to ensure that the cables cross over. It looks wrong but is correct. There is even numbers on the cable housing and the servo to help. I will try the lack of clarity on the housing following powdercoating as to the reason, rather than oversight on my part.
Finally the cables were fully adjusted and sealed up.
Then it was to fill the engine with gearbox oil and the two stoke to the tank. And bleed the oil pump. Slight issue here as the electronic copy of the manual is missing the couple of pages that cover pump bleeding.
The short answer is with everything set up, open and close the throttle to activate the pump with the bleed screw in the centre of the picture open it and wait until the oil comes through with no bubbles.
If you are looking for some better descriptions try the manual for the TDR250. Its the same engine so the same instructions. Its what I needed to resort to.