One of the things I would like to do with this project is to apply some of the tricks that I have learned from the 250 build as well as working on SV's and others over the years. One of those things is to strip some of the heavy parts out of the engine while it is still in the frame as its not going to move around to much.
So with that in mind the first thing to remove is the alternator rotor. I locked the crank by slipping a 2p between the clutch and the primary drive once I removed the clutch cover. This enabled me to remove the nut.
However to pull the rotor off the crank I didn't know if I would have the tool as there is little information on line around for what I would need. Yambits that I used for a fair amount of parts for the 250 don't list the YSR, however I used their puller for the 250 so with that part number I searched their store and found that lots of bikes have that puller listed. Turns out Yamaha thought about these things and the puller I already had was the correct size.
So the rotor came off very easy.
Now moving on to the clutch side taking the pressure plate off was was easy revealing 2 friction plates, 2 plain plates, and some rubber dampers. But then I hit an issue; I couldn't remove the primary drive nut. The 2p I used to lock the crank is looking very second hand now, the ratchet couldn't move the nut, the small breaker bar couldn't move the nut, the 2' breaker bar only put the 2p through the gears, and the impact gun only worked to fire the 2p out of the engine along with the kickstart mechanism. Time for plan E.
First, remove the head and then the barrel. This was straight forward, but one nut was rusted onto the stud. A quick check on Fowlers reveals that its no longer available from Yamaha so that will need to be looked at later. And there wasn't a base gasket on the barrel, odd.
So with the barrel off I could remove the piston allowing me to do something I wouldn't recommend as a method of locking a crank as there is a risk you can damage parts. But using two spanners to provide a flat surface and an extension bar through the small end I rotated the crank until it locked and this was enough to the take the nut off with no damage showing to the cases
Now while doing my pre-removal check to ensure nothing unexpected is still attached to the engine I took a closer look at the crank seal on the left hand side revealing a leak. I think I've found the source of where the oil has been dripping from.
Finally using my scissor lift I removed the engine from the frame.
