Curvy engine fit Pointy?

How hard is it to put the curvy engine into the pointy frame

The only difference I can really see that will be difficult is the oil cooler.. Not sure how essential it is though?

Need to replace conrod bearings anyway so will be a while. Just intel gathering.

[squirrel_hunter]

There are a number of differences between the Curvy and Pointy engines, though they are essentially the same engine...

The Curvy engine did not have an oiler cooler, the Pointy does. This meant that the exhaust was changed to accommodate between the models. Though I haven't tried it myself in theory the Pointy pipes shouldn't have an issue with the Curvy engine.

Depending on the year of Pointy it may be a twin spark. Post 2007 Pointy engines are twin spark if I remember correctly. All pre 2007 and all Curvy engines were single spark plugs. So using a Curvy engine in a 2012 Pointy will be a problem as the Pointy will be expecting an additional spark plug on each cylinder. Not sure which model you have and if it is a twin spark what changes exactly will be required or if you could just leave the second auxiliary spark plug disconnected or use Curvy coils.

But on the subject of ignition you will need to change the alternator rotor as the ignition pickups are different between the Curvy and the Pointy on the account of the Carb/ Injection induction.

There are actually some other internal differences between the engines though these are not as vital as the above. For example, the gear shift star is different with the Pointy being accepted as the better one owing to the deeper troughs. The cams are also differently timed, though are interchangeable. I think the Pointy puts out a couple of horses more than the Curvy but swapping the cams between the engines even them out. The clutch cover is different between the models, but I know of no performance difference. And finally they are painted differently.

And I just remembered induction. I think you will need to change the induction rubbers as the carb rubbers are different to the throttle body rubbers. Oh and the valve covers on the Pointy have an additional feed from them to do with the PAIR system so they will need to be swapped, but are not vital, something to do with emission control.

Nope not twin spart. k5 bike. but apart from that, sounds like it should be an easy swap! apart from obviously splitting the case and all that..

Wish the journals were fine haha. Picked up engine today and found bit of play, Will plastigauge it and order them.

Cheers for that!

[squirrel_hunter]

Let me just check... You have a K5 but want to put a Curvy engine in it. The Curvy engine you have needs new big end bearings? And out of interest, why do you need to replace the engine in your Pointy?

THIS -

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And also was seized and the part of the crankcase the gear selector shaft goes through snapped off... was only noticed when I saw a hole about the size of a ping pong ball in the side of the engine

I picked up the engine because there was tapping on rear cylinder... I thought ah sweet camchain tensioner (Engine cost £100 pretty good deal) then I found their was play in the bearing.

[squirrel_hunter]

Well I can see why you might want to replace that engine. How did that happen?

However... It is commonly accepted that if the big end has gone then its new engine time. Suzuki do not sell replacement main bearings. While it is possible to fit new mains if you can source a replacement it is a lot of work and might not work out in the long run. I would not recommend this approach. However if you are able to find an undamaged crank then in theory swapping that with your damaged one in the Curvy cases should be fine.

Just as a bit of additional information about cranks, Curvy and Pointy cranks I understand to be the same. You will just need to match the crank bearings in the cases. But I would advise against K3/4 Pointy cranks, there have been a small number of failures of these cranks that I have seen where the crank snaps at the alternator end.

I found Robinson's foundry sold main bearings in different color codes and that. Or is that me being thick? I searched by part number after looking on alpha sports

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[squirrel_hunter]

That crankshaft bearing is the bearings that support the crank in the cases.

If you have play in the crank, ie you take the heads off and the con rods move to much that is the main or big end bearing; a common issue if the engine has been run excessively low on oil. This bearing is not sold as a replacement part.

So when you say you have found play in the bearing what and how exactly were you testing?

Conrod side side to side and bottom to top. Took barrel off and moved the piston up and down about 2mm watching the conrod move on the crank

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