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#1 |
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I'm finding my bike stiff to roll forwards/backwards when she's cold at the moment. Looking at the front brakes, the pads seem to be sitting hard against the discs. There is an intermittant squeeking noise as well when I roll her abount but otherwise the usual sound that the brakes make when applied lightly (I've compared the two).
The brakes are not juddering/pulsing when applied, so I'm presuming the discs are not warped. However- assuming it's the pads that are too hard against the discs, I'd assume that the pistons may be seized or the winter cold is making something stiffer (oo-er!) than usual. This is not a constant thing and the bike has seemed better after a long ride (though not tonight- but only a short trip t'shops and back)- this would point to either the constant connection wearing a bit off the pads as she's ridded for a couple of hours, or bearings and stuff warming up. I had a quick search, but didn't really find much, so it's over to the panel! |
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#2 |
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Sounds like it may be time for a caliper overhaul.
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#3 |
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+1, had a similar complaint on my old RG125F. Caliper overhaul solved all woes.
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#4 |
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Check your tyre pressures. I found the bike a little stiff to move one morning followed by it feeling a little sluggish round corners, all due to a flat rear tyre.
Other than that sounds like the brakes; clean and or overhaul as said above. |
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#5 |
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Cheers guys- I'll get a brake bleeding kit and set to work- will probably order my new hoses in that case- may as well do all at once.
I've already got brake fluid and copper grease. I remember reading that there's a specific lube for the pistons too- what else will I need, and is there a post with tips on bleeding/refilling? (edit- I know that's really lazy and will probably do a search anyway, but if you know of a specific...) The tyres are getting checked tomorrow anyway, but they feel fine at low speeds and on corners- and all else points to the brakes anyway. Cheers agin! |
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#6 |
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Never seez is the dogs danglies for the pistons, but copper slip will work too.
You don't need a brake bleeding kit to overhaul the calipers, you can change fluid etc just by bleeding them the normal way
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#7 |
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Cheers- I guess I'll need new O rings for them -can shoot to a Suzuki dealer tomorrow.
So- what's a bleeding kit for then? Just getting air holes out? Does it make the whole job easier? As a first attempt at this, I'm sure I'll need any help I can get! Especially if I'm putting new hoses on. Might as well do it all at once. Plus I've got new pads- still a decent bit of wear on the existing, but the back are sintered and not sure if the front are- so want to give as much advantage to the front as possible. Last edited by thedonal; 29-12-07 at 07:58 PM. |
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#8 |
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Not neccesarily, the seals might be ok
Get some spares if you need the bike daily in case they are knackered, but you might not need the,
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#9 |
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Cool- it's my commuting machine and as 2 days on the train=1week's petrol, I guess that it's best to be safe.
I guess I'll be OK for the next week or so- given that I'll only be riding a few days, due to New Years. Apart from pad wear, should I be aware of much else while riding in this condition? For cleaning the calipers, can i just use fairy liquid and water, followed by a good rinse and dry? Sorry to keep quizzing y'all, but it's first time, and brakes- fairly important to get right! |
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#10 |
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Be right, so long as its not dragging to the point that your discs start glowing
edit: this is a daft overstatement, if its dragging enough to get the discs hot then it needs attention, but a little scraping noise when pushing the bike will not be generating heat. My apologies.
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat Last edited by yorkie_chris; 29-12-07 at 09:43 PM. |
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