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#1 |
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So as I was looking and didn't find the solution here, I thought I would post what has worked for me. I've used the search and it came back with the vacuum idea, the "ride it till its empty" idea etc etc.
This was my 1st attempt and I nearly blew myself up but here is my successful experience. I needed to replace my damaged tank but had 1/3rd or so of petrol in. After researching various methods I thought I'd try the fuel pump method, i.e. detaching the ECU, using a wire to connect the fuel pump connector to the positive battery terminal, therefore using the pump itself to get the petrol out. Done correctly, I'm sure this is the easiest method. However, I was either using the wrong connector or my wire was shot so nothing happened, so this is what I did: - Remove the seat; - Lift tank, use stand; - Unplug fuel line but leave pump connected (have rags handy for any spillages); - Get container and suitable hose/tube to siphon fuel; - Connect one end of siphon to tank fuel connector, other goes in receiving container; - Turn the ignition for the pump to prime and fuel will be ejected into the receptacle. It took about twenty turns (switch on, switch off) for it to drain 1/3 tanks but it was easy. I didn't blow myself up and it took 5 minutes or so. The battery seems fine as you are only priming the pump. It won't remove all fuel, maybe 95%. The rest will have to be removed using another method but it was good enough for what I needed. Also, you'll have to remove the pump when you swap the tank but this will be obvious after the first time. I hope this helps you. Ronnie |
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#2 |
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If you're swapping tanks wouldn't it just be easier to remove the tank from the bike, open the filler cap and tip the contents into a tub? With the tank upside down you can then remove the pump that you'll need for the new tank anyway and turn the tank the right way up to get the rest out. Give the tank a shake to get the last out as there are internal baffles in it, and you're done.
Saves trying to kill your battery and the tank and pump needs to be swapped anyway so helps with that. Only advice left is to have some rags handy to catch the extra spill, the pump will retain some fuel, use a new o-ring on the pump, and spray a little WD40 on the cap as the petrol would have given it a wash would be a good idea. This is how I have swapped tanks before. |
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#3 |
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Flush the tank with water and it'll clear the fuel
Good post though
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#4 | |
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As it was my first time I tried to see what others had done, was a bit nervous about the whole thing and eschewed the very simple and logical as you've suggested. So yes, this would have been the easiest. I also didn't realise about the pump and the heat shield. Live and learn. However, I suppose this solution could still be of use to someone who simply wanted to drain the tank without removing it. In any case, I'm sure the next person will find either solution quite useful. Cheers for that. Ronnie |
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#5 |
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I aim to please.
Yep forgot about the heat guard, bit of a pain that is. One of the other things to add is if you drain the fuel into a tub you can see all the rust that comes out with it... Let it settle then carefully drain the good fuel off and refill into your new tank, take the rest down the tip with the old oil for burning. And when refilling pour the fuel from the tub into a pouring jug first. Just trying to poor the petrol back into the new tank with just a funnel may not be as successful as you first hope. Trust me on that. |
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#6 |
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Again, another good tip. I had real apprehension about re-using the fuel. It looks clean following transfer (except for a piece of bark that somehow made its way into the plastic petrol can) but I'm also very reluctant to throw a lot of good fuel away. I'll consider this tip as there's probably more than a good fiver's worth that cab be re-used.
Ta |
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