Cam Swap Pointy?

Originally Posted by SVXR650

As for the guy who tested the SV650 with and without snorkels

Did he tell you to run snorkel? If yes he is bs you because he runs with no lid.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by SVXR650

I think you may be misunderstanding a Dyno Tune, with just a Dyno Run...

Knowing zadar and sv650racer, I really doubt it.

^ lol

[squirrel_hunter]

So with the general consensus being the Cam Swap on a Pointy will give a couple of horses it was about time to perform the operation. So I found a spare set of Curvy Cams in my back passage and conveyed them to BaP's for experimentation. So here is a little step by step of the progress should anyone be interested...


The test subject.


We removed the tank, air box and radiator to get to the front cylinder and cam chain tensioner


With the valve cover removed the original cams were exposed.


The Curvy cam is then marked up using the pictures from post #5.


And then the Pointy exhaust cam is replaced with the Curvy in let cam.


With the front complete the rear was then swapped.

The bike was then reassembled and fired up. Unfortunately no before or after test as the bike is currently SORN but in a couple of weeks time BaP will get it back on the road and is looking forward to a 50% in crease in power, I suspect he will be slightly disappointed.

This was the first time I'd done this on a Pointy and the first time I'd played around so much with a SV engine in the frame. Most of the work was straight forward apart from the cam chain tensioner's. I knew Suzuki changed the design but I didn't realize that the change was so different. I was hoping we could just take the tension off to replace the cam but had to take the whole tensioner out which I wasn't expecting.



I also wasn't expecting the pain the rear tensioner gave us. There is very little access to it and after removing the rear wheel, the mud flap, we had to remove the suspension linkage to drop the swing arm out of the way.

According to Haynes only the rear wheel need be removed. But fear not it sounds worse then it is. Its still a pain to access, so if anyone has any better suggestions please say? The great book of lies also makes no mention of the difference in tensioner design or the difference in Cam between the models. Oh and clearances were checked on assembly, all within tolerance.

But I couldn't write all of this without including the following photo...



This is BaP screwing the rear plug back in. Nothing notable there apart from the fact it would not tighten. This left BaP confused. But eventually he realized the reason. He was attempting to insert it upside down.

Rear tensioner is easy on pointy. Usually I will just unbolt rearset to get hand in there. You only need to take out 12mm plunger, not whole tensioner.

[maviczap]

Now you tell him

I shall point out that, although I concede I did have the plug in upside down, I did do the rear tensioner. Utter pain

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by zadar

Rear tensioner is easy on pointy. Usually I will just unbolt rearset to get hand in there. You only need to take out 12mm plunger, not whole tensioner.

We did take the rearset off but couldn't get a clean enough angle on the mounting bolts as the swing arm prevented a clean line to the bolt head and we didn't want to risk rounding it. I think this might be due to the GSXR1000 shock thats on the bike as I think it changed the ride hight slightly and thus the angle of the arm even when not under load.

However if you take the 12mm bolt out and then the spring, would the tensioner not still be under tension? I thought it was a ratchet mechanism with the release being within the engine when the tensioner is mounted?

[yorkie_chris]

I have no idea how you are making it such hard work. 1/4" ratchet, middlin' sized extension, dead easy

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I have no idea how you are making it such hard work.

Its a talent of mine?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

1/4" ratchet, middlin' sized extension, dead easy

Didn't have 1/4" drive with a matching hex bit with us to do the mounting bolts, but taking the 12mm bolt out was easy. We were using 3/8th and a verity of extensions. However it didn't appear possible to release the tension without removing the whole tensioner assembly?