Project: Garage Find

Did you ever find out about those three scorched looking coils on the stator? I'd hate to see you have to pull the engine back apart for a failure.

[squirrel_hunter]

No. I can only presume that its standard for whatever reason. To me the coils are not damaged just been subjected to a different manufacturing process. Hopefully they will continue to work after the rebuild as I'm lead to believe that they worked before.

Good luck mush. Let me know when its reading for me to ride

[squirrel_hunter]

Not as productive as I wanted to be today as something else came up. However the clutch is now in.



The new EBC Heavy Duty friction plates from Yambits were oiled up and placed into the basket using the original plain plates. Starting with a friction plate, then plain, then friction, and so on.

Next was the new EBC Heavy Duty springs from Wemoto. Compairing these to the originals they were about half a coil longer than the originals, I would say this would be due to wear. The pressure plate was mounted with its actuating arm and bearing before the springs and original bolts.



Tightening the bolts on the clutch up to 7nm was nerve racking as my torque wrench only goes down to 10nm, so I had it set slightly below that and eventually they all clicked round.

Now was time to build the barrels and the powervalves. After cleaning the valves up of the old coke deposits with WD40 and a little wet and dry I started on the right cylinder. New seals from Yambits were added and the valve greased up before inserting into the cylinder.



I used the handle of an insulated pliers to lock the valve to tighten the joining bolt. And then it was a case of tightening the valve holder bolts on the outside of the cylinder. And this was where I had a problem. There was some I think blast media in the threads left over from the powdercoating process. This makes tightening the bolts difficult and there is a big risk of damage (see the lower yoke) removing this media is also a pain. So that's where I am currently. Just need to sort the thread out on the holders by which time I should have the stud dowels for the cylinders and so the pistons can go on...

[yorkie_chris]

IMO using a measuring tool outside of it's range is as bad as not bothering at all, in same case I would do them up by feel.
Lots of torque wrenches don't make a good "click" at low torques, maybe none at all 30% below their actual range! Strippy strip...

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

IMO using a measuring tool outside of it's range is as bad as not bothering at all, in same case I would do them up by feel.
Lots of torque wrenches don't make a good "click" at low torques, maybe none at all 30% below their actual range! Strippy strip...

Agreed

Some of the ones used for tightening carbon cycling components go from 1 - 5 nm, so would probably work better than a normal torque wrench for these low torque settings.

But is it really necessary? I just tighten up really carefully.

I've had more cheap alloy parts fail than carbon ones

[timwilky]

I find it uncomfortable that people put so much faith in torque wrenches when "feel" will generally tell them that they are applying too much and allow a get out of jail.

[squirrel_hunter]

I should add a correction that the torque wrench wasn't actually outside of its range. I have a Halfords Pro 8 - 60nm that I was using for this, set to 8nm. But yes a blind faith to the torque setting is not what I was using and a lot of the nerves relates to a Thundercat clutch from many years ago that snapped a bolt nowhere near its torque setting. Its funny how things like that pop into your head when your working on a bike...

Originally Posted by timwilky

I find it uncomfortable that people put so much faith in torque wrenches when "feel" will generally tell them that they are applying too much and allow a get out of jail.

Obviously, you have "feel".
Some lucky people are born with it, but not many. Quite a lot of people develop it with training, coaching or experience. Some people just never get the "feel", ever.
For the people who know they don't have "feel", using torque wrenches is the best and safest way to go. Using torque wrenches is also the least expensive way to learn "feel", other than a good teacher.
Besides, the feel of high strength steel fasteners carrying tension loads is much different that that of plastic fasteners. There are lots of different "feels" to learn.

[yorkie_chris]

Outside of a tools calibrated range any faith is misplaced!