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#11 |
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#12 |
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What do you think I started with...
Do you want to do it? |
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#13 |
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If it was me I'd build it up with all the nice things like busa pistons, Carrillo rods and get it all lightened and balanced, swap the cams, thinner head gasket and then get it set up/jetted on a dyno
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#14 |
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I had thought of doing that, but I don't think the rest of the bike is worth it. I commuted on it for two and a half years through London. I am also about to be commuting 30 miles up the M5 each way, so my plan prior to the bearing shell disintegrating had been to sell it soon, and get something a little more fuel efficient.
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#15 |
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Also to confirm I have read the Haynes correctly, if I replace the crank shaft, I also need to replace the main bearings, I.e. the ones between the crank case halves and the crankshaft, as these are selected fit.
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#16 |
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Yes if you get your crank out get new shells
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#17 |
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My 2p worth is this: if you want to keep the bike, I'd look for a decent used engine you can drop in.
I know some people would say "you've already got one used engine, you don't need another" ![]() The alternative is not to break it, but eBay it as a complete project. Someone out there might want the complete rolling chassis etc |
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#18 |
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Hadn't thought of the last option there. Looks like all the part I need for the rebuild, including crank, are about 370-400 all in.
Breaker round the corner offered 200 as is. |
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#19 |
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Can you use a crank from a pointy on a curvy?
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#20 | |
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I'll give you £250 for it. I believe so. From memory they are different part numbers as there has been some slight differences over the years but as far as I am aware there shouldn't be a problem with the older and later cranks. But as I've not done that (knowingly at least), I'd recommend doing a little more checking. Remember to set the end float though. |
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