oil in cylinders?

[Seeker]

After I stupidly knocked my bike onto its rhs it sat like that for about 3 hours. What's the likelihood of oil now being in the cylinders (and possibly causing a lock when trying to start)?
I've removed the air filter and there's no oil in the airbox but, once the new coolant hose is fitted, would it be wise to take a plug out and crank it before trying to start it?

[squirrel_hunter]

If you are concerned then yes, remove the plugs and give it a crank, you can do it from the stator inspection side if you really want as to not be on the starter motor. Put a bit of rag over the plug hole to catch anything coming out if there is (or isn't).

[Craig380]

It's unlikely but as S_H says, just remove the plugs and give it a quick crank first if you want to be 100% sure.

[Seeker]

Why is it that when you know you have a tool but you can't find it until the moment you buy a replacement. I was camped outside Euro Car Parts at 8am to buy a new 16mm spark plug socket. Bought one, got home and immediately found the one I'd "lost".
Anyway, plugs were bone dry so I cranked it over using the stator bolt (thanks for the reminder S_H, I'd forgotten about that) and no oil came out. Hose has just arrived, back to garage...

[Seeker]

Hose fitted, coolant added, bike reaches temp (3 bars on Gen 3) but radiator cap is dripping. It doesn't look damaged but that was the side it was lying on. No stock, of course.

[Seeker]

I noticed that the metal "ears" that hold the cap tight were not symmetrical, one side was not holding it as close as the other so I tweaked that in a vice. I checked the radiator spout (?) for level and saw a slight high spot so took care of that too. Plus the ramp that the ears follow as it tightens on the spout looked out of shape on the side it fell on so I gently moved that but it's still not perfect but I'm conscious of the £500+ cost of a new rad.

I just ran it to 3 bars again and this time no drips so I'll put it back together and try it around the block.

[admin]

My wife knocked over my curvy in 2004. It landed on the left side and stayed like that for an hour or so till I could get back from work.
Oil from the sump traveled up the breather pipe into the air box and once upright into the front carb. Luckily I guessed this might happen and checked.
I removed the front spark plug and cranked by hand and sure enough oil spurted out. Did that a few times and then did it on the starter with the rear spark lead removed. I thought I'd got all the oil out and couldn't think of any other way to check.
So I took a chance and replaced the plug, caps and tried a start. There was a bang.... but the bike started and sounded okay. Stopped the engine and tried another start. Some very odd noises from the starter.
A strip revealed that I'd torn two teeth off the starter clutch.

Sent from my moto g(50) using Tapatalk

[Seeker]

I took the SV on a longer run and got the impression that the forks were out of alignment and/or the handlebars were bent although it ran ok and didn't seem to handle any different. Put it on the AbbaStand used a spirit level to make sure bike was level and measured from bar weight screw centre to ground - no difference. Are they bent, measurements say no but... (it doesn't help that I have a voltmeter clamped to the rhs so it's difficult to get a good uncluttered view - and it's a pain to remove)
So to the forks: I removed handlebars to access and loosen steering cap bolt (30mm socket - had to go buy one), lower fork leg clamps (headlamp is in the way for a socket), calipers, axle pinch bolt and axle. Pumped forks which, allegedly, should realign them.
Then I noticed that the radiator had been pushed to the left and its brackets were bent which might explain why I thought the forks were off since it was in my sight line when looking at them.
I removed the rad bolts and eased the brackets back to plumb but, worringly, they moved like a ratchet in a couple of click steps.
The bracket's welds seem intact and firm but to be on the safe side I used JB Weld to reinforce them. Time will tell...


A genuine Suzuki radiator is now £604, 2 days ago it was £588. There are cheaper ones on ebay (Chinese?) but I try to avoid supporting the CCP whenever possible. This will be a good test of the strength of my beliefs if I need one

[Craig380]

The rad should be OK, it does have the cylinder head support too. But effing hell, £600 for a replacement? Oooof.

[Seeker]

I thought £600 was a bit steep but I also thought that £30 for the S bend hose from the water pump was pricey too, the second hose is even more.
I did see this radiator on ebay which is, allegedly, German:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155816165349
I hope it looks better in real life because the pic isn't doing it much justice. £160.