Curvy engine fit Pointy?

[squirrel_hunter]

That's the main bearing you have the problem with. Bad news.

I should clarify, yes the mains are sold as replacements with different colour codes. But these are not sold as over size bearings which are what would be needed.

This thread might be of use.

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

That's the main bearing you have the problem with. Bad news

It's the big end bearing he has a problem with, which is the one in the big end of the conrod. The main bearings are the ones that support the ends of the crankshaft within the crankcases.

Robinsons list the big end bearings (called crank pin bearing in this case) in four tolerance sizes at £15.08, though I don't know if availability is a problem. A much bigger problem will be if the journal on the crankshaft is damaged, and judging from previous threads on here regarding rattling SV's this seems pretty likely.

[squirrel_hunter]

Yes, I appear to have muddled a little terminology up there.

To clarify Main Bearings are readily available and replaceable. Big End or Crank Pin bearings while are supplied in difference tolerances are not supplied in oversize which is what I understand from experience would be required.

If you have play in the big end, I would throw the crank away.

Crank can be fixed by welding and grinding to original size but process weakens crank and is not recommended. Replacing crank or whole motor is easiest and best way.
To use curvy motor you just need rotor/stator and intake boots swapped. You don't need oil cooler.

Originally Posted by zadar

Crank can be fixed by welding and grinding to original size but process weakens crank and is not recommended. Replacing crank or whole motor is easiest and best way.
To use curvy motor you just need rotor/stator and intake boots swapped. You don't need oil cooler.

so is the stator or rotor that needs changing or both?

also is their a easy way to yank the rotor off, on my Gs it was a bolt that went through the alternator thread and pushed against the lip inside the crankshaft.

But i tried that on the SV and it still won't budge.

[squirrel_hunter]

That bolt is very tight. There is some information on how to and the tool in the following threads:

This one and this one.

The last time I removed one I used an impact gun. Made life much simpler. But I have done it with the old spanner and breaker bar. From experience it is easier to remove and replace the alternator with the engine in the frame provided the bike is secured to keep the engine steady.

When it comes to reassembly make sure that the nut is torqued up correctly. Its quite a number from memory as it needs to be. If you don't tighten it up correctly it will make a mess of your engine.

As for the question of parts to replace. I have an idea, but don't know for sure. Someone else will hopefully be able to assist here.

I tried with a nut gun (impact gun) and it didn't budge on either of my two engines. and the pointy engine i used the bar and snapped the high tensile flywheel puller bolt I was using

Originally Posted by Darkzy43

so is the stator or rotor that needs changing or both?

Both. And you want to change gear selector sensor.

Sensor isn't a problem.

Getting my pointy's rotor off is haha.... Will prob just buy another one.

I know, easy to change but you need it.
Hold rotor with open wrench and use long breaker bar on puller. Impact tends to damage threads on rotor when it does not come out easy. Lube threads on puller before using it.