Chain riveting question

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by swinging_simian

It's not a 'factory' made endless, it looks like the guys at into bikes just opening the packaging and put the soft link in place for me using a rivet tool.

Why would anyone do that? All of the inconvenience of fitting an endless chain with none of the benefits of the strength an endless chain.

Mad.

Originally Posted by _Stretchie_

for £60 and it twisted and bent.

To clarify - was the one that broke the one that you used on the wrong link?

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

To clarify - was the one that broke the one that you used on the wrong link?

Yes. But in our defence...

I can't think of anything.

Oh no wait, how about we didn't know about the different types at the time. If I'm honest I'm still unclear. What tool is required for which one and how can you ensure that the correct chain/ tool combination when you order?

[_Stretchie_]

[QUOTE=squirrel_hunter;2254693]

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

To clarify - was the one that broke the one that you used on the wrong link?

Yes. But in our defence...
QUOTE]

Squirrell you great daft banana what you talking about?

The tool, as linked to in the first post of the thread, did get borrowed by one of Squirrells collegues and returned with a new pin in it as he snapped it. I can only presume he was trying to insert a new link in the chain that holds the anchor to the HMS Big Bloody Ship

The only one we broke was the Motrax one which bent doing the chain on the Thundercat, it was the right link because the pins in the link had a tiny little dimple in them indicating where to squash them. Oh and there were not attached to owt when we started

[squirrel_hunter]

I though our Squid was on about the Motrax one? If not ignore everything I just said.

As for the pin being broken on that riveter (the good one), I have a sneaking suspicion that the lended didn't grind the heads of first.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Yes. But in our defence...

I can't think of anything.

You sir are a gentleman - I greatly admire your honesty .

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

What tool is required for which one and how can you ensure that the correct chain/ tool combination when you order?

See - this bugs me. I have a very nice chain riveter (which incidentally also cuts without grinding first) and bought a mail order renthal chain on sale. Turns out it used the solid ended rivets instead of the hollow ended ones (which my riveter is for)

I ended up having to pay a shop to rivet it for me! If you look on chain manufacturers websites, they don't bother telling you which rivet they use. Even websites like B&C express use generic pictures which aren't indicative of the actual link type.

From now on I'd just stick with one brand!

Just checked back to find more amusing posts on this thread, thanks guys.

So the chain tool is pretty good, very easy to use and seems very substantial. Had no problems breaking the new chain once I had ground the heads off the soft rivets.

...but, I got carried away and did the old rusty chain too, without loosening the front sprocket first :/ Now I have a free rotating front sprocket and no chain and back brake to stop it from moving. At present my current plan is to fit the new chain on the old rusted front sprocket, loosen it using the new chain and back brake. I am slightly worried that the old rusted sprocket is going to damage my nice new chain.

I've read that putting it in gear to undo the sprocket bolt can damage the transmission. Is this true? Any suggestions would be welcomed gratefully.

Thanks

Nath

Originally Posted by swinging_simian

Just checked back to find more amusing posts on this thread, thanks guys.

So the chain tool is pretty good, very easy to use and seems very substantial. Had no problems breaking the new chain once I had ground the heads off the soft rivets.

...but, I got carried away and did the old rusty chain too, without loosening the front sprocket first :/ Now I have a free rotating front sprocket and no chain and back brake to stop it from moving. At present my current plan is to fit the new chain on the old rusted front sprocket, loosen it using the new chain and back brake. I am slightly worried that the old rusted sprocket is going to damage my nice new chain.

I've read that putting it in gear to undo the sprocket bolt can damage the transmission. Is this true? Any suggestions would be welcomed gratefully.

Thanks

Nath

You can just lay the old chain over the old sprockets. It only needs to cover the tops of the 2 sprockets and wrap around the sides a little.

Just get a mate to really stand on the rear brake pedal and you'll get it off with a big breaker bar.

Originally Posted by swinging_simian

I've read that putting it in gear to undo the sprocket bolt can damage the transmission. Is this true? Any suggestions would be welcomed gratefully.

Thanks

Nath

The clutch would slip before that happened. Every bike mechanic I know puts the bike in gear when removing the gearbox sprocket, you won't do any more damage to the gearbox than revving it to the redline and then changing gear would do.

Originally Posted by lukemillar

See - this bugs me. I have a very nice chain riveter (which incidentally also cuts without grinding first)

My DID chain rivetter is supposed to push the pins out without grinding, but I've always ground them anyway to give the tool an easier time. I've not had to buy a new pin for it yet.