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#21 |
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See above, Used a bar, then tried the impact gun and then used a longer bar and snapped my flywheel puller Hight tensile bolt.
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#22 |
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Some can be stubborn
![]() If you snapped puller it is not tensile enough. |
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#23 |
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I think it's where the crank overheated from the crash, after I was unconscious and the bike was running without oil filter or oil for 5~ minutes.
Not to worry. As long as the one on the engine i'll be buying soon comes off. What's the reasoning for needing the new rotor/stator. |
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#24 |
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Rotor has ignition and fuel pick ups on pointy that are different than curvy. For same reason you need gear sensor.
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#25 |
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Ahh fair enough.
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#26 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sunny Swindon
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Thanks for the info. Might be handy for the future...
As for the problem of removing the rotor, I have had a problem with this myself. In the end I threw the motor away (the big end had gone on it anyway I just wanted a look at it). I did read something somewhere about heat and pressure and time to remove the rota, will try and dig it out. |
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#27 |
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Time to get the Oxy-Acetylene tanks out then!
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#28 |
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Just be careful with heat if you plan to save rotor. Don't overheat it or magnets can fall out. They are epoxied to rotor and to much heat will melt epoxy.
You can try putting some torque on the puller and tap rotor with hammer, or tap on puller head. It is like impact but is easier on threads. |
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#29 |
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I was thinking, if the crankshaft is kaput anyway.. can i not drill very carefully into the crankshaft to weaken it and hopefully contract it a bit?
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#30 |
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No, don't even try. Try tapping like I mentioned and if still does not pop use some heat but only on very middle of it where it contacts crank.
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