Engine removal - stuck, help!

[muzikill]

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=156046

Do i really have to take the front sprocket off?
What size of a socket do i need if i have to?

Im struggling to get the bolts connecting the exhaust pipes loosened, ive tried wd40 but when i try undoing them the hex key is bending with the amount of force i am using and im scared it will shear or knacker the screw head if it slips,(the heat from the engine has probably welded the thread onto the heads) any tips from those who have removed a sv exhaust?

thanks in advance!

[Sid Squid]

If you're going to get the 'box apart you'll be best to remove the sprocket, some of the output shaft parts may not be removable if the sprocket is in the way, of course it may not be needed - it depends on exactly what you need to remove - be a bummer to find you do need it off once the shafts are out though.

Exhaust bolts; get a suitable drift and give then and good stiff wallop - dead sqauare mind - on the end. You want a sharp strike rather than a King Kong mullah-ing. Don't be afraid to try that a few times - give it a wallop and try to undo, no go? Give it another spank and try again with a good quality, properly fitting tool.

[squirrel_hunter]

My engine removal experience is limited to the curvy but I assume based on the shared design and the pointys that I have worked on that it will be very similar...

Front sprocket bolt is 30mm off the top of my head. And no you don't have to remove it to drop the engine but if your taking the gear box apart you may have to mess around with the output shaft and it will be far easier to do it now then later. Keep the chain connected to the rear wheel and stand on the rear brake to stop it from moving then undo the sprocket nut. A lovely assistant will come in handy for this part. After its lose move the rear wheel forward to take the chain off the sprocket and then remove the sprocket.

As for the exhaust bolts I use a set of Irwin Sockets and a two foot breaker bar. Not let me down so far. New studs and bolts are usually on the cards though.



Edit: Mr Squid beat me to it.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

New studs and bolts are usually on the cards though.

Pointy may have socket headed screws rather than studs and nuts, (not always though).

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Edit: Mr Squid beat me to it.

[TamSV]

Originally Posted by muzikill

im scared it will shear

That's very wise shearing those bolts could be a major pain - depending on where they break off.

Mine's a curvy so studs and nuts rather than allen bolts but the same idea. I used freeze spray and the shock method mentioned above to get the studs out which worked well.

If it's not moving with reasonable force then don't push your luck. If you're hanging off the end of a scaffold pole to loosen them then it's probably not going to end well.

[muzikill]

Yeah its a pointy so allen bolts . . . I can see this being a sticking point in the job i need to get on with

[Ratty]

As Sid says, sharp hit straight on the head as though you are trying to knock it into the clamp. This breaks the ally's grip on the steel threads. Buy or borrow an impact driver with bits. This does the same job and applies a turning force at the same time. Ace piece of kit.

Ratty

[yorkie_chris]

Impact drivers aren't as good on allen heads as screw type heads sadly, worth a try if all else fails.
Heat, use proper penetrating oil not WD40, more heat, more impacts.
Definitely use an allen socket not an allen key.

You can be violent, but make sure it is carefully directed violence!


Curvy one with studs and nuts is so much nicer to work on.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Curvy one with studs and nuts is so much nicer to work on.

Which begs the question...... Can the studs & nuts from the curvy parts list be retrofitted? Might be a good option.

Garry

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah, same thread, same function. M8 metric coarse.

But pointless, just go buy some M8 threaded bar in stainless and cut your own.

TBH easiest way I found was to buy SHCS with excess length, spin nut down, fit pipe like that and wind bolts (soon to be studs, use plenty anti-seize), nip the nuts down the bolt and whack the end of the bolt off with a cutting disc. Takes seconds and is very easy.